Tag Archives: Transylvania

The Black Church of Brasov, Romania

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The Black Church of Brasov, Romania

In Romanian, Biserica Neagră, the Black Church of Brasov is famous in the region. Dark, gothic, and deliciously photogenic, the Black Church is one of the most popular stops for visitors to the town the tries to lay claim to Dracula. (Which the really have no business doing. It’s not Vlad Tepes’ birthplace – that’s Sighisoara; it’s not the castle from which the bloody tyrant ruled – that’s Poenari Castle, deep in the mountains; and it’s not the country in which the famous story was conceived, researched and written – that’s Ireland. All it’s got is good marketing and a tenuous connection via the castle that amazingly fools a lot of visitors). Back to Brasov. What it does have is colourful streets, dozens of pubs, pretty good nightlife, a hilltop viewpoint reached either on foot or by cable car, and of course, dramatic architecture like this gothic pile of black stone. Constructed by the Saxons in the 14th century, the name the “black church” didn’t come about until the 19th century. Despite a popular ruin that its colouration was due to soot from a medieval fire, the real reason is at once sadder and more banal – the dark pigment is a simple case of industrial pollution. Like many other cities, the industrial revolution brought jobs and prosperity to otherwise struggling places – but it alsp brought increased pollution, health concerns and lasting environmental effects. Completed in 1476, this late-stage Gothic church, the Black Church started life as a Catholic institution but swung the other way to become a Lutheran (Protestant) place of worship during the 16th century Protestant Reformation. Today, it’s a popular tourist spot – and this terrace overlooking the church offers one of Brasov’s iconic views (perhaps beat only by the faux-Hollywood sign affixed to the hilltop overlooking the town).

Tip: Enjoy this iconic view from a forested urban trail just above the Black Church to the west. There is a popular viewing platform perfect for getting that Instagram-worthy shot.

Stunning European Churches

Biertan Fortified Church Tower, Romania

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Biertan Fortified Church Tower, Romania

Romania is a good place for history. One of the border of multiple territories, Romania – and Transylvania on particular – is full of towers, fortifications, walls, castles, and other defensive elements. The more turbulent the region, the more castles you tend to find. This is the tower of Biertan Fortified Church. Yes you read that right – they even fortified their churches here, and Biertan was one of several such examples (Viscri is another). One of the most important Saxon fortified churches, Biertan is a UNESCO site with roots that stretch back to the 1200s. Its tower rises up from its hilltop position, peeping over the high walls to overlook the fairytale village of Biertan. Encircled by hills traced with vineyards and terracotta tiles gleaming in the sunlight, this picturesque ancient place was not only a place of beauty and culture, but one of power too. From 1572 to 1867, Biertan was the seat of the Saxon Evangelical bishops of Transylvania, though the tower itself is a 15th century gothic-style fortification, built to strengthen the church on the hill. It is a stunning place to visit for anyone interested in medieval architecture and Transylvanian history, and is only a short distance from Sighisoara.

Tip: Biertan is an easy day trip from Sighisoara, itself a stunning medieval town heaped in history (it’s the birthplace of Vlad Tepes!).

More Romanian History

Brasov, Romania

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Brasov, Romania

This is undoubtably the town of Brasov. Can you figure out why? Spot the definitive (and quite cheesy) sign! Brasov is a very popular town in Romania, perhaps the most visited town of all Transylvania. The main attraction here is “Dracula’s Castle,” which unfortunately isn’t Dracula’s Castle (sorry, that is Poenari Citadel – it’s just that Poenari is isolated and well off the beaten path, while Brasov’s castle is easily accessible). But that doesn’t mean that Brasov doesn’t have other charms. Because it is popular, it has many amenities. It is an ideal welcome to travelling in Romania, as many other parts of Romania have fewer amenities western travellers are accustomed to. It’s busy, it’s accessible, it’s well sign-posted, and there are plenty of restaurants/bars etc. English is spoken throughout. And of course, Brasov is beautiful. It’s colourful, vibrant, and fun. That silly Hollywood-esque sign up there? There is actually a lovely forest hike that takes you up the sign and beyond, if you choose. There is even a wee tram that takes you up if you prefer that – but walking is far nicer. Plenty of very lovely Romanian churches abound and the wine is good – especially if you find a nice wine bar (there are several). There’s no shortages of things to do, as long as you don’t mind being around plenty of other European tourists.

Tip: Skip Brasov’s gimmicky castle and instead include an extra day to your itinerary to head out of your way to visit the mountainous Poenari Castle. Or visit the majestic hilltop Rupea Castle – you’ll likely have it much to yourself.

Why Else is Romania Cool?

Biertan Village, Romania 

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Biertan Village, Romania 

Located in the north of Transylvania is a wonderful little village known as Biertan. This is one of the most important and romantic Saxon villages in Romania. At its heart is an amazing fortified church, a UNESCO site since the early 90s. In fact, each of the three villages in the commune has their very own fortified church, though its Biertan that steals the cake. The village was founded sometime between 1224 and 1283 by the Saxons who once inhabited Transylvania, budding into a market town in the Middle Ages. The fortified church came later, in the late 15th and early 16th centuries. Once an important place, it was quickly surpassed by other towns like Sibiu and Sighisoara. But perhaps that’s a good thing, as this little place has remained unspoilt and charming. Because of its enduring, fairytale-like beauty and important church, Biertan is one of the highest-visited places in Transylvania. 

Pro tip: Visitors to the region really should visit Sighisoara and Sibiu – both great places to use as a base to explore the region. Also be sure to try the local wine!

More Eastern European Medieval Towns & Villages

Streets of Sighisoara, Romania

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Sighisoara street

Streets of Sighisoara, Romania

Sighisoara is surely Romania‘s brightest jewel. This snug medieval city is tucked into the north of the Transylvania region. Colourful facades jostle for place on ancient streets paved with smooth cobblestones, made shiny by the footfall of thousands. Cafes and beer terraces stumble out into the main streets and squares, and a happy hubbub of chatter sounds in the air. Quieter alleys with own windows and miniature gardens ring with the sounds of cooking. A region that has seen many rulers, travellers from Romania, Bulgaria, Hungary, Italy and other nearby countries mingle together in this historic city. Sighisoara has a darker past, too. It was here that the infamous maybe-vampire Vlad Tepes (Vlad the Impaler) was born. In fact, you can eat in a restaurant that occupies his former home. Though probably not a vampire, he was certainly unbelievably cruel. Vlad had a seemingly incurable bloodlust and a deep-seated hatred for the Ottomans – though in his defence, the Ottomans spent an inordinate amount of time trying conquer Vlad’s regions of Wallachia and Transylvania (modern day visitors prefer Transylvania due to its mountains and castles, but at the time Wallachia was worth more as its flat and featureless landscape was far better for profitable farming). Vlad’s nickname ‘the Impaler’ was unfortunately based on his obsession with impaling his enemies on spikes. (He is also one of the first to use biowarfare, sending fatally sick man dressed as Turks into their camps to infect as many people as possible). Despite this dark stain on Sighisoara’s history, there’s no doubt that this amazing walled city is a place of true beauty, lovely people and seriously good food.

Pro tip: We recommend climbing the covered awning to the church and graveyard at the top. For some of the best food in the city, head to the wine cellars of Gasthaus restaurant, just outside the walls. We recommend the stew Ciulama de pui for mains and a papanasi as dessert. Or eat in Dracula’s birthplace – a tourist-popular place, but less of a ‘trap’ than in other major European hotspots. 

More of Magical Romania

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Retezat Mountains, Hunedoara, Romania

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Retezat Mountains Mountains, Hunedoara, Romania

In the far-flung province of Transylvania, there’s an even more far-flung corner, a little-visited region called Hunedoara. Far off the tourism radar, Hunedoara is remote, agricultural, and lost in time. Towering over the plains and village of Hunedoara are the Retezat Mountains National Park, part of the famed Carpathian Mountains. With about 20 peaks pushing over 2300m (7500 feet), the Retezat Mountains, like the rest of their cousins in the Carpathians, are a force to be reckoned with. However, quiet Hunedoara, tucked into the foothills of the Retezats, is a place caught in a time capsule. It is a place of dusty villages and traditional dress, of ancient plows and horse and carts and even Roma gypsy palaces. Here, you’ll find another side to Romania, one quite far from that of the cosmopolitan centres of Bucharest and Brasov. At one moment in history part of Dacia, the Roman Empire, Hungary, the Ottoman Empire, Transylvania, the Soviet Union, and modern-day Romania, Hunedaora is a region accustomed to change and turbulent times. Today, though, no place could be quieter and off-the-beaten-track.

Pro tip: Hiking in the Rezetat Mountains is no joke, and should only be done by experienced and well-prepared hikers – even better with a local guide. Otherwise, there are plenty of villages and lower-level foothills to explore. Hateg is a good base. The town of Hunedora may not be beautiful – but its Corvinus Castle sure is!

Other Places in Romania

 

Sibiu, Romania

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Sibiu, Romania

When most people envision European travel itineraries, not many include Romania – a country that gets a bad rep. Though it has one of Europe’s lowest salary averages, it also has one of Europe’s highest economical increases in recent years. It’s taken awhile for Romania to get on its feet, but it was worth the wait! Deep in the Transylvanian woodlands is the beautiful and not-so-famous city of Sibiu. Climb the stairs into the lovely old town of Sibiu, a true masterpiece of medieval marvels with towers, walls and historic houses. Like cities in Poland, Croatia, Lithuania and most other Eastern European countries, Sibiu (and other Romanian cities) is a colourful labyrinth of brightly-painted streets. Like other Transylvanian cities – such as Sighisoara and Brasov – Sibiu packs a bundle. From vast public squares to tiny, hidden-away bookshops, from beautiful church spires to streets lined with nothing but restaurants, Sibiu has something for everyone. Despite being a European Capital of Culture in 2007, Sibiu is still a relatively undiscovered this eastern charm. Originally a Daco-Roman settlement (Dacia was the name of the region before the Romans conquered), Sibiu exploded in size and economy when it as re-founded by the 12th century settlers from Saxony (modern-day Germany), concreting it as one of the most important medieval trade centres in this part of Europe. Later joining the state of Transylvania thanks to the Ottoman Empire, and after WWI, Sibiu once again changed hands – this time to finally become part of modern-day Romania.

Pro tip: La Taifas restaurant on the main Piata Mare has a nice terrace, great view and they do good food – including nice veggie dishes and delicious spritz, though there are many other restaurants on the smaller streets around the main plaza. 

Where Else to Visit in the Balkans

 

Medieval Sighisoara, Romania

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Cobblestones of Sighisoara Old Town, Romania

One of Romania‘s most beautiful and fascinating cities is certainly the colourful and vibrant Sighisoara. Snuggled into the heart of the hauntingly beautiful region of Transylvania, the dazzling and historic medieval town centre is one of the best preserved in the country, a fact that has not escaped UNESCO. Perhaps most famous for as the birthplace of Count Dracula (otherwise known as Vlad Tepes or Vlad the Impaler), Sighisoara is colourful and historic town. Cobblestone streets, soaring towers, ancient walls, vibrant shop fronts, this town embodies everything you’d want in a medieval town – a photographers paradise. Settled in the 12th century (officially entering the registrars in 1191), Sighisoara was a frontier town settled (and defended) by German saxons at a vulnerable time in Transylvanian history when the region was ruled by the King of Hungary. A town built into the ruins of a Roman fort proceeded it, followed in 1337 by an urban settlement considered a regal city. For centuries, Sighisoara was an important and influential city in Central and Eastern Europe. With a strong and successful economy dominated by Saxon Germans (what’s new…), Sighisoara was a recognised haven for craftsmen, artisans, merchants and guilds. Not all of Sighisoara’s history was positive though. After a fairly successful medieval age, 17th and 18th century Sighisoara saw terrible fires, plagues, occupation, sieges and other horrors.

Pro tip: Though beautiful during the the day, don’t miss the city at night! In one of the towers, there is an impressive array of leather-working. For some of the best food in the city, head to the wine cellars of Gasthaus restaurant, just outside the walls. Great views from the Church on the Hill – climb it via the covered staircase and descend via the graveyard. 

Find More Amazing Sites in the Balkans

Făgăraș Citadel, Romania

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Fargaras Castle, Romania

Făgăraș Citadel, Romania

Transylvania, like Wallachia, is an ancient region of Romania – mountainous, disputed, oft-changing boundaries. Fortresses and castles had to be built for protection, defending land and people. Făgăraș Citadel is one of those places. Făgăraș was built in 1310 on the foundations of a 12th century wooden fortress that had been burned by Tartars in 1241. Then it was enlarged in the Renaissance style with the sole purpose of impressing visitors (in fact, Italian architects were brought in to add said Renaissance grandeur). Then – sadly – Făgăraș became a military garrison, meaning that the once-luxurious interior was ruined, trampled, lost. Encircled by a moat and a tree-lined garden, Făgăraș remains a beautiful and impressive place. However, do keep in mind that today’s Făgăraș Citadel is plopped in the middle of Făgăraș town, with cars and cyclists whizzing by, the din of city noise as its soundtrack. Făgăraș Citadel is now a history museum – entry 15 lei, open year round – and a fantastic example of a Transylvanian castle!

Pro Tip: Făgăraș Citadel is a great stop for anyone driving between Brasov and Sibiu! Whether you visit the interior of the castle or just stretch your legs along the walls, it’s worth the stop! 

More Castles in Eastern Europe

 

Brasov from Mt Tampa, Romania

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aerial view of Brasov from Mt Tampa, Romania

Aerial View of Brasov, Mt Tampa, Romania

Ah Brasov – one of Romania’s most beloved cities. Tucked away into a corner of magical Transylvania, Brasov is a medieval city proud of its history. Caught between ancient tradition and a modernising Romania, Brasov is a shining symbol of the past, showcasing an era when Transylvania and Wallachia, two of Romania’s ancient regions, were in their heyday (though it wasn’t always so; that famous Vlad Dracula the Impaler? Yes, he got his nickname by impaling Turks during his never-ending fights with the land-crazed Ottoman Empire). Returning to Brasov. The best way to start your foray into the city’s ancient beauty is by climbing Mt Tampa (elevation 960m – roughly 400 m above Brasov). There’s a funicular but to truly dig into the dark forests of the Carpathians, to imagine what it was like during Brasov’s Middle Ages, you have to climb it on foot. From the top, behind the Hollywood-esque Brasov sign, you’ll be rewarded with amazing aerial views of orange-topped medieval Brasov, fringed by the lush forests that carpet the wandering Carpathian peaks. We have the Germans to thank for the fairytale orange tiles and princely avenues, which give way to the wandering alleys of the Romanian Schei district. After you drink in the stunning views, drink a well-earned beer from the tiny outdoor pub and then head back to town on the funicular.

Pro tip: The funicular costs 10 lei (16 return), and runs from 9.30-17.00 (from noon-18h Mondays); buy your tickets from the operator or even at the bottom of the cable car. The hike is well-marked and takes about 1.5 hours. Expect the summit to be busy. 

Other Medieval Cities in Europe

 

Vajdahunyad Castle, Hungary

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Vajdahunyad Castle Budapest, Hungary.

Budapest is one of the most amazing cities in Eastern Europe. In the middle of the otherwise normal Varosliget park next to the famous bathhouse is…well, this. The Vajdahunyad Castle isn’t your typical castle. Built in 1896, it started out as a impermanent structure made of cardboard and wood built for Hungary’s 1000th birthday. But people liked it so much that they decided to solidify it. Named for the Hunyad Castle in Transylvania, these Gothic spires are only one of the four styles of the castle. Turn a corner and come across the Baroque style, Romanesque or the even Renaissance. It may be a strange architectural monument, but it is certainly worth visiting!