Ballindoon Abbey in the Snow, Ireland

Ballindoon Abbey in the Snow, Ireland

Winter’s sunrise on a crisp, snowy morning. The crunch of frosted snow underfoot, the tiny green sprouts pushing through the centimetre of spring snow, confused and searching for sun, like the rest of the island. There’s little more beautiful in Ireland than a stunning winter’s day, and though it can be a little chilly, temperatures rarely drop below 0º Celsius (that’s 32º Fahrenheit). Ballindoon Abbey (or priory) is a magical little ruin in Co Sligo, on the quiet shores of Lough Arrow, a place once renowned for fishing, and now largely left to its own devices. Like most abbeys in Ireland, this edifice pre-dates the 16th-century Cromwellian invasion, though only by 100 or so years (work commenced 1507, Cromwell showed up en masse with his army of butchers in 1649, leaving a trail of destruction everywhere he went). Today, like most similar spots, Ballindoon’s graveyard and abbey are the perfect place for tranquility, inward reflection, and remembrance. In Irish, ‘bally‘ means ‘town’ and ‘dun or doon’ means ‘stone fort’ – referring to the McDonagh’s towerhouse that used to stand in a neighbouring field. It’s all but gone now, like so much Irish heritage. But the abbey? Ivy covered, lonely, and forgotten, she stands proud on a backdrop of pastoral lakeside charm, the picture of an 18th century Romantic scene, elegant in her slow but beautiful decay.


Top tip: Hungry? Check out McDermott’s Pub just down the road, a piece of living heritage in a region of charm and modernity.


Fall in Love with South Sligo

Visit all of the above within a 15-km range.


Inside Ballindoon Abbey, Ireland

Inside Ballindoon Abbey, Ireland

Romantically ruined, the lakeside Ballindoon Abbey is the picture of gothic. You’d be forgiven for expecting to spot a ghost or fairy or some other spirit haunting its walls. One of the last abbeys built in Ireland (commissioned 1507) before Oliver Cromwell arrived on Irish shores and began ransacking and burning Catholic abbeys, Ballindoon Abbey is just one of Ireland’s many ruins. So what makes this one special? Forgotten far away in the often overlooked northwest corner of Ireland, in a forgotten corner of south Sligo, its very anonymity and overlooked status makes it that much more magical. As with many abbeys and monasteries, there is a large bell tower at the centre of the building. What’s unusual is that… it’s just possible to reach it. That is, with a bit of guile and a head of heights. The second floor is accessed by a crumbling stone “stairway” (if one can call it that) on the outer wall – jagged teeth protruding from the ancient stone wall. Above, you’ll find a magical fairytale room seemingly drawn straight from the pages of Narnia or Lord of the Rings. Cloaked in emerald moss, carpeted with soft grass, curtained in tendrils of ivy blowing in the breeze, it is Mother Nature herself who has taken over the decoration of this hidden room. Gaze down at the abbey and graveyard below, or out to the wooded edges of Lough Arrow, a place once a hotspot for fishing and now just one of Ireland’s many tranquil lakes. Ballindoon is a place of peace and reflection, a place to go to get away from the rush of the modern world and watch as Mother Nature slowly reclaims what is hers. (Alternatively, view the upper floors via drone photography, as the steps are very much not up to code and dangerous to navigate).


Tip: In the mood for a hike? Head to the now-closed Cromlech Lodge just above Ballindoon Abbey where you can park at the lay-by, and hike one of the most spectacular portions of the Sligo Way from Labby Rock across the Moytirra Ridge to Moytirra East Tomb. Circle back via the main road, making an 8-10km loop.


Visit More Historic Sites in Ireland


Woods in Leitrim, Ireland

Woods in Leitrim, Ireland

Twisted and gnarled, the damp, temperate climate of Ireland lends itself to green. Every shade and tint of green. Moss clings to the wind-worn trees. Soft ferns uncurl themselves from the thick carpet of dead leaves and bracken. Braids of ivy intertwine the tree trunks, blowing quietly in the wind like wisps of hair. Even as the seasons turn, the hardiest of leaves cling to the branches. And from the forest floor, the next generation of woodlands push through the ground searching for sky, jostling for space amongst Ireland‘s busy forest floor, crowded with mushrooms, ferns, bushes, flowers and animal burrows. The small and remote County Leitrim on Ireland’s west coast is not on most people’s Irish tourist itineraries. Very few visitors could point it out on a map or say anything about this little county; in fact, plenty of Irish from the east coast might be hard-pressed to tell you anything about Leitrim other than “rural farmland.” But if you’re looking for total peace, a place where the modern world is at a standstill, where there are more sheep and cows than people, more barns than houses, more cow-tracks than roads, you’re essentially looking for Leitrim. Green pastures and green forests, green hills and green fields – it’s hard to find a prettier and quieter place to escape from the world for a few days than rural Leitrim in Ireland’s northwest.


Tip: Some amazing Leitrim spots to check out include Glencar lake and waterfall, the nearby Devil’s Chimney waterfall and forest paths, the cute villages of Dromahair and Mohill, the lakeside Parkes Castle and Drumshambo gin distillery.


Seasonal Forests – Further Reading:


Rindoon Castle, Ireland

Rindoon Castle, Ireland

The Irish Midlands are often overlooked in favour of the island’s many coastal regions. While it’s true that the Midlands don’t have dramatic coasts, pristine beaches, and rugged peaks, the soft, lush centre of Ireland contains other wonders. One such gem is Rindoon Castle and medieval settlement – the site of one of Ireland’s only walled towns. The site stretches back to the early 13th century with the castle constructed as early as 1227 as a royal borough. Built on a prominent spot overlooking a corner of Lough Ree right in the heart of Ireland, the castle was once a formidable fortress. Below its towers grew a thriving medieval settlement comprising of a village, church, harbour, windmill, and eventually hospital, sustaining a population of about 600 people. Strategically located on a narrow peninsula, the head of the peninsula was further defended by an imposing 500-metre-long stone wall. Rindoon was intended as a jumping off base for the English to make further conquests into Ireland but the settlement did not last long. A frontier town straddling Anglo-Norman Ireland and the lands held by the powerful O’Connor clan, Rindoon was sacked and destroyed by Gaelic clans and abandoned by the English settlers in the 1300s. During Elizabethan times, the castle was rebuilt but that, too, did not last long, and it was once again in ruin by the 17th century. Today, what remains aboveground is a crumbling castle overrun with vines and vegetation, a small church, the original base of the windmill, the site of the harbour, and sections of wall. There is a lovely looped hike around the peninsula, taking in the various historical sites and lakeside views along the way.


Tip: You can park at the nearby car park and follow the 7km looped trail (strictly no dogs allowed). Another option is to arrive at the castle ruin by boat from Lough Ree. Nearby St John’s Wood also has some lovely forest walks and hikes. On the way back, why not stop in Roscommon town to take a peek at the castle and abbey there?


Enchanting Irish Castles


Temple House, Sligo, Ireland

Temple House Sligo and Knights Templar castle

Temple House, Sligo, Ireland

It’s a little-known fact that rainy northwest Ireland hides the ruins of a Knights Templar castle – and it’s in the place you least expect: on the grounds of a 4-star manor hotel. The gorgeous Georgian manor, Temple House, gets its name from its Templar connection. Looming dramatically from the windblown fields, visitors will literally stumble over the crumbling ruins of a Templar church and castle just outside the stately home. The house was built in 1825 on a large 1,000-acre estate on lands that once granted to the Knights Templar in 1216. The Perceval family has lived on the lands since the 17th century, and continues to reside on-site today (the current Perceval owner of the house is also your friendly host to anyone lucky enough to snag an overnight stay at the manor house), with just a minor break when the house was briefly sold for lack of funds before being bought back almost immediately by another member of the Perceval family. The Percevals claims to trace their history all the way back to Sir Perceval, a knight of King Arthur’s Round Table, with another ancestor taking part of William the Conquerer’s raid of England. The castle may not look particularly “Templar” but this is because it was modified in the 1600s to fit the trendy Anglo-Irish idyll of domestic castle living. Windows were widened, rooms expanded, and ceilings raised, all in the name of comfort (by the 1600s, invasions in Ireland were a thing of the past as the island was firmly under British rule). Anyone yearning for old-world charm coupled with a connection to history and mythology will love a quiet country break in Temple House surrounded by country comfort and fascinating history from two very different periods of time.


Tip: The breakfast in the lavish dining hall is a fantastic way to start your day. Take the time to chat with owner Roderick; once you get him talking about local history, you’re in for a treat!


More Fascinating Irish History


Bluebell Woods, Ireland

Bluebell Woods, Co. Roscommon, Ireland

Violet and blue flowers erupt in a rich carpet on the forest floor against a background of emerald greenery. The sun peeks through a canopy of lush woodlands sending rays to shine on the forest floor, illuminating the thousands of bluebells dancing in the breeze. The Irish Midlands are too often overlooked by visitors and locals alike who dismiss the whole region as uninteresting without taking the time to find and experience its magic. Bluebell Woods is one such magical place. Each May (and sometimes early June), forests across Ireland come alive with vivid violet floral displays. Hidden down a winding back lane in Co. Roscommon, Bluebell Woods is lovely any time of year, but it enters the sphere of Impressionist painting come May. Wander the laneways of bluebells and breathe in the fresh air – sometimes co-mingled with the scent of fresh wild garlic, marked by its distinctive odour and dots of white petals. Bluebells are native to Ireland and are characterised by their drooping stems and upside-down bell-shaped floors, usually growing in forests or other shaded places. If you’re lucky enough to meander through the forest of bluebells in season, it’s not an experience you’ll soon forget.


Tip: Visit Bluebell Woods (or other similar woods) in May. If you’re visiting the Roscommon woods, we recommend heading to Lovage cafe in Boyle afterwards for refreshments. Lovely people and an ever-changing menu of organic creative dishes. Can’t travel in May? The Burren National Park is also known for its amazing wildflowers which last through midsummer.


More Irish Midlands Near Bluebell Woods


The Burren National Park, Ireland

The Burren National Park, Ireland

The wild rocky whorls of the Burren National Park in western Ireland are entirely natural. Some of Ireland’s most bizarre geography, the Burren is Ireland’s smallest national park of six. Though not far from the ever-popular Cliffs of Moher, the Burren gets fewer visitors. The hills here barely qualify as hills, as they are only a few hundred metres high. But the landscape is so bizarre that hiking in this area is worth it. Once the bottom of a tropical sea floor formed from the leftover sediments some 350 million years ago, the Burren’s upper layers were later stripped by a glacier. Sediments were compressed into horizontal strata, leaving behind a cornucopia of fossil corals, sea urchins, crinnoids and ammonites, many of which are still embedded and easily visible in the stone underfoot. The iconic Burren viewpoint is the top Mullaghmore Hill. Once climbed, it offers a craggy panoramic canvas of stoney swirls crafted by a glacier some ten thousand years ago, creating one of the finest examples of a Glacio-Karst landscape in the world.  There are seven way-marked hiking options in the national park, but the best one is the blue route loop, which is about 8km long.


Pro tip: The best time to visit the Burren is in spring when it is in bloom. It is one of the most bio-diverse floral regions in Europe, with flowers from the Arctic to the Mediterranean growing side by side. Learn more about the Burren National Park on their site.


Hiking in Ireland

Carrokeel Cairn F, Sligo, Ireland

Carrokeel Cairn F, Sligo, Ireland

Some two dozen cairns dot the highest points of the Bricklieve Mountains, combined to form the Carrowkeel-Keash Neolithic complex. Tucked in the shadows of the towering Keash Mountain (topped with Sligo’s highest cairn, despite most thinking it is Knocknarea Hill), Sligo’s Bricklieve Mountains are among Ireland’s most history-drenched locales. This is Cairn F as viewed from Cairn B – interestingly, two of the complex’s least visited but most impressive tombs. Cairn F is by far the largest tomb, and due to its size and prominent location, it was likely it was the focal point of the ancient site. Dating to the Neolithic period, these tombs are about 5,000 years old, making them older than Stonehenge, the Pyramids of Giza, the Colosseum and many other historical spots that we now think of as “old.” Today, the entry to Cairn F is closed. When it was brutally “excavated” in 1911 by the English “antiquarian” Prof. MacAlister, the enormous capstone was smashed because it was “too heavy to lift” (a horror that still makes archeologists and history buffs angry), though its true that even then, the cairn’s roof had collapsed and the cairn’s interior was filled with debris. Inside, as outside, Cairn F was the biggest of all Carrowkeel tombs with five burial chambers (others contain one or three). At the time, Ireland’s climate was much more temperate, supporting a flourishing Neolithic society on the island. The people who lived here left behind a number of impressive stone monuments all over the island as well as artefacts, burials, and hut foundations, but despite these tantalising clues, there still remains much mystery about Ireland’s ancient Neolithic people and their lives and culture.


Tip: To visit Cairn F, follow the signs to Carrowkeel from Castlebaldwin village. After parking , hike along the regular path that heads towards the Carrowkeel cairns (G-H-K). Once you walk up the first hill, and go around the first bend, look in the heather for a narrow footpath. Hike up this short but steep hill and you’ll find the impressive remains of Cairn E (more on that in another entry), and about 200 m beyond find Cairn F. The tombs can be spotted from Google maps – a good way to ensure you’re in the right place. Martin Bryne’s Carrowkeel site is a wealth of knowledge on the subject.


More Ancient Ireland & Beyond


Gardens of Lismore Castle, Ireland

Lismore Castle Gardens, Ireland

Lismore Castle started life as Lismore Abbey, built in the 7th century as a centre for ecclesiastical learning. The castle itself was built in 1185. This Irish castle changed wealthy hands a number of times, following the rise and fall of said wealthy families – the Earls of Desmond after the 14th earl was killed in 1583, the self-made Boyle family, the Cavendish family through an advantageous marriage. It was the 6th, or the ‘Bachelor’ Duke in the early to mid 1800s who made Lismore the castle it is today. He was a fan (like me!) of the gothic and by extension, the neo-gothic style. He even hired Joseph Paxton, of London‘s Crystal Palace fame (and to a lesser extent, of Kew Gardens) to make further changes to Lismore, resulting in much of its current appearance. In addition to many English lords, Lismore Castle was also once home to Adele Astaire, sister of the famous Fred Astaire. Today, it is still owned by the Cavendish family, the same family who own Chatsworth House in Derbyshire. Also of note are the stunning castle gardens which are as extensive as they are beautiful, as seen above. The castle itself is now an exclusive use accommodation, but it is still possible to visit the gardens even if you aren’t a guest. Fun fact – Chatsworth likely inspired Jane Austen’s depiction of Pemberley House, Darcy’s estate in Pride and Prejudice, and Chatsworth was also used as the filming location for Pemberley in the 2005 Pride and Prejudice. Lismore Castle (owned by the same family, remember!) was then used as a filming location for another Jane Austen film, the 2007 Northanger Abbey, where Lismore stood in for the titular abbey.


Tip: If you can get the castle’s gardener to give you a tour of the garden, you are in for a treat! The gardens are amazing, particularly when visited through the eyes of the passionate gardeners. Also, while in the area, we recommend heading to the Comeragh Mountains for a day – hike the Coumshingaun Lake loop for incredible views.


Don’t Miss These Hidden Gem Irish Castles


Aughris Head, Sligo, Ireland

Aughris Head, Sligo, Ireland

Craggy and rugged, the Aughris headland rises from Ireland‘s Atlantic shores. Pairing turquoise waters with emerald grassy hills shorn down by the resident herds of cows and sheep, this scruffy headland crowned with diving seabirds is a local Sligo favourite, though you’ll be hard-pressed to find tourists from further afield here. The new trail wraps around Aughris Head, winding along its rocky cliff edges and shores of secret beaches, weaving past local history spots and prime bird-watching vistas. There was once a small village here but like so many of rural Irish villages and hamlets, it was slowly abandoned until little remained; today, just one of the handful of ruined cottages has been restored. The walk starts and finishes at Aughris Beach and Dunmoran Strand – if the looped walk and the beach strolls are combined, you can get just under 10km of walking done (though the loop itself is just over 5km). It is a lively place with locals – there is even a small camping facility (also largely frequented by locals). Windswept and worn down by the power of the relentless sea, Aughris Head is a lovely hidden gem along the northern half of the Wild Atlantic Way.


Tip: Finish up your walk and stop by the Beach Bar, located in the charming thatched cottage, for a pint and a snack. We recommend the seafood chowder – its warm and delicious! There is also an off-the-beaten-track ruined church nearby – from the headland, turn right and then right again (as if back to the sea) and you’ll spot this tiny ruined church in the field to your left.


More Irish Coastlines


Castlebaldwin in the Snow, Sligo, Ireland

Castlebaldwin in the Snow, Sligo, Ireland

Everything looks magical in the snow, doesn’t it? Castlebaldwin, a small village in northwest Ireland, is home to the ruins of the “castle” of Baldwin, a small stone manor with a defensive tower on the back of the castle. The castle ruins are complete with gun-slots and a machicolation (an overhanging hole over the down where defender could rain down hot water, hot sand, tar, rocks, arrows or other blunt objects on attackers though rarely boiling oil because that was too expensive). Little is known about this 17th century fortified manor house or its builder, the family Baldwin, other than that they were English, many stones used to build it were once part of a long-gone nunnery, and that the castle’s ceilings were made of wood, not vaulted stone. Judging by the relatively small size of house, the obscurity of the family and its homestead, and the fact that northwest Ireland traditionally has very poor agricultural land, the Baldwins were not likely very wealthy nor high status, and more more likely to be minor lords. Ireland was home to many absentee English landlords who ruled their Irish estates with an iron fist from the comfort of their London townhomes (while the Irish people tilled the lands for very little food or money, living in hovels with dirt floors and not even allowed to practice their own religion – Catholicism – or speak their own language – Irish “Gaelic.”) Today the little-visited castle is a silent and eerie relic of a bygone era, accessed by a new kissing gate on the back road behind the castle and the N4. If you’re lucky enough to visit in winter snow, enjoy the lovely winter wonderland! Happy New Year and welcome to 2022.


Top tip: Castlebaldwin lies just below the stunning Bricklieve hills home to the Carrowkeel passage tombs from Neolithic times 5,000 years ago, and just a few kilometers from Keash Caves. When in the area, it’s worth visiting these monuments. Then head to McDermott’s pub for a pint and maybe a hot meal – on a warm day, their new beer garden is lovely!


Visit Other Local Sites


The Hag of Beara’s House, Ox Mountains, Sligo

The Hag of Beara’s House, Ballygawley Hills, Sligo, Ireland

The Cailleach a Vera or the Hag of Beara was a figure in Irish folklore associated with the coming of winter, rising at Samhain (Halloween, the Celtic start of winter) and waning on St Brigid’s Day (Feb 1st, the Celtic start of spring). Topping one of the peaks of Slieve Daeane in County Sligo‘s Ox Mountains on a backdrop of the iconic Ben Bulben is a neolithic tomb colloquially known as the Hag of Beara’s house. It was common practice for the Irish people of bygone times to create folklore stories of witches and giants, mermaids and fairies and magical bulls and more to explain natural features or Neolithic remains, as they did not understand that such ruins were built by ancient peoples over 5,000 years ago! (i.e. the Giant’s Causeway supposedly being built due to warring giants). Today, the long distance trail the Sligo Way weaves its way through these mountains between the village of Collooney and the shores of Lough Gill. Though not on the path, the neolithic tomb known as the Hag of Beara’s house can be visited by dedicated hikers by leaving the path and heading up the hills. Each hill is topped with a cairn of sorts, but the Hag’s house is on the lowest peak closest to the lake. It can be wet with tall grass, so wear hiking boots and waterproofs, and long sleeves to protect against bugs – but it is well worth the effort for the history, culture and of course the views!


Tip: Looking to refuel afterwards? Gourmet Parlour in Collooney or Tempo Cafe in Ballisodare are delicious local options. Sadly, the Hag of Beara’s house was recently vandalised by someone with a metal detector looking for who knows what. Do not disturb these ancient sites please! Learn more about this and more of ancient Sligo on Martin Byrne’s fantastic site.


More of Sligo


Lough Easkey, Sligo, Ireland

Lough Easkey, Sligo, Ireland

In the half-forgotten northwest corner of Ireland, tucked into a little-known inland pocket is the remote and tranquil Lough Easkey. This small glacial lake is the picture of natural beauty – grassy slopes resting under balding peaks forming a forlorn valley, home to the quiet shores of the lake itself. County Sligo’s Lough Easkey is a place of haunting beauty – the countryside is desolate, the lakeside cottages long abandoned, now providing shelter for the mountain sheep. The terrain underfoot is boggy and wet, and despite the way-marked path, expect to get wet. The trail that encircles the lake is about 6-7 km in length, and is one of Sligo’s most beautiful and little-known paths, though only recommended for those with proper waterproofs and boots. In fact, the 80km/50 mile long Sligo Way runs alongside one side of Lough Easkey before veering down rural lanes. Hike Lough Easkey on a sunny day and you’ll be rewarded with stunning views and a tranquil atmosphere. Hike here on a grey day and feel the desolation that past generations of inhabitants must once have felt. Do be sure to take the shoes off and dip your feet in if you hike on a warm day!


Pro tip: The seaside town of Enniscrone isn’t too far away. We recommend La Piazzetta pizzeria – delicious authentic pizza made by the friendly neighbourhood Sardinian Danny. Grab a delicious takeaway pizza down to the beach to watch as the sun sets over the waves.


More Sligo Hiking: 


Caves of Keash, Ireland

Caves of Keash, Ireland

Caves often get a bad reputation as dark, scary, suffocating. Caves are where the bad things live, right? Bats, bears, witches, you name it. Caves are easy to get lost in – physically lost, and unable to find your way back, or lost to other dimensions, as seems to happen in most fairy stories and myths. You go into a cave and find another world – you stay for a day, and come back to find a year has passed. This is both true and untrue for the Caves of Keash (or Keshcorran, as they are also called). Tucked away in a quiet corner of County Sligo – which is already a quiet corner of Ireland – the Caves of Keash are 16 openings in the steep limestone slopes of Keash Mountain. Archeological excavations here have uncovered centuries-old animal bones – the remains of long-ago meals – the bones of a medieval friar said to have been killed here, and even an impressive Viking comb. And folklore has it that one local woman, while chasing a stray goat into the caves, accidentally travelled to the dimension of the fairies and much to her disbelief, came out the mouth of the Oweynagat Cave in Roscommon, some 40 kilometres away! Though the walk there is short, the caves are well worth the steep climb for anyone passing through Sligo. 


Pro tip: Find Keashcorran on OS map 25. To access the caves, park at the village and walk up the road to the trailhead (about 3.5km total – boots are preferred but not required). At the time of writing this, work on a small car park at the trailhead base is ongoing, shortening the walk to about 2km. Fancy finding the cairn perched atop the mountain? Access it from the other side of the hill. Park at the small car park at Lough Labe, walk south past the farm to the first farmer’s gate on the right, and follow that to its end. From there, follow the gully up to the stone fence, and walk along that fence until you can see the cairn. There’s no path and its rough terrain, so wear good boots. 


More of Sligo: 


Creevykeel Tomb, Co Sligo, Ireland

Creevykeel Tomb, Co Sligo, Ireland

Ireland is full to the brim with Neolithic Age ruins – the “new” (or most recent) Stone Age, during which a hardy people made Ireland their home. Neolithic Ireland was a bit different – the climate was milder, land was better, more trees covered the island, and it was better connected with the mainland. Many types of animals living in Ireland during this time are either extinct in general today, or simply extinct in Ireland (such as wolves, bears, wolverines, large types of deer and more). During the Neolithic Age, people around the world settled down to farm and raise livestock – and settlement led to building. Creevykeel is a Court Tomb – one of the four main types of Neolithic tombs, along with wedge tombs, passage (or chamber) tombs, and dolmans – as well as standing stones. It is widely considered to be one of Ireland’s best preserved court tombs, and dates back to about 3500 BC, experts think, though it was in use over many years. It was built over three phases – the court was built first when the entrance monoliths were placed, the second phase enclosed the court, and the during the third phase the cairn was extended. Court tombs, largely concentrated in NW Ireland, comprise an elongated, roofed gallery covered with the often-seen mound made of smaller stones we see across Ireland, though court tombs are also accompanied by the “court” that lends its name. Not only is Creevykeel a protected monument, but Ireland still holds on to its superstitions, relating anything unknown to the supernatural, particularly the shee, or the fairies, including many Neolithic monuments. This tomb is today located beside the main road from Sligo to Dublin and has been left mostly untouched. Out of respect? Disinterest? Fear of the fairies wrath? Who knows. Sligo is one of the most Neolithic monument-rich regions in all of Ireland – we have Carrowkeel, Knocknarea, Knocknashee (there’s that shee again!), Carrowmore, and many other individual tombs, including Creevykeel.


Pro tip: Creevykeel is easy to visit, and for most is just a quick stop on the road if they stop at all. It is marked by a small panel on the Sligo-Donegal road, about 20km north of Sligo. It makes a great stop for anyone headed up to Slieve League Cliffs, the city of Derry or Glenveagh National Park.


More Irish Neolithic Sites: 


Loughrea, Galway, Ireland

Ruined church near Loughrea Galway

Ruined Church near Loughrea in Co Galway, Ireland

Ireland is simply bursting with old ruins – from Neolithic cairns and Iron Age promontory forts, to Norman castles, medieval tower-houses, Georgian mansions, Famine-era villages, recently-abandoned cottages and course lots of churches and monasteries. When the evil Oliver Cromwell and his troops invaded, destroyed and looted Ireland at the behest of the Crown, he also burned all of the Catholic monasteries and churches, and with the Dissolution of the Monasteries (thanks to the mad King Henry VIII) plus the later 18th century Penal Laws (which outlawed everything Irish), most Irish Catholic churches were doomed. Even today, most Catholic churches are 19th or 20th centuries. Anything older, like the tiny church on the Racecourse Road outside Loughrea, is likely in ruins. Some of these structures benefit from the care of a community group, local church groups, an interested landowner, the OPW (Office of Public Works) if they’re lucky, or simply local do-gooders, but some many of these small, half-hidden structures are overgrown, wild and forgotten. Trying to preserve them all simply isn’t always possible. This little church seems even to have forgotten its name, though at least the site is still cared for. Spot it after leaving the small Galway town of Loughrea headed south on the way to Lough Derg.


Pro tip: Ruins such as old churches, as well as Neolithic cairns, megalithic tombs, holy wells, standing stones, public ways, and more are marked in red on OS maps (as well as contour lines). If you’re thinking of hiking in Ireland, or looking for smaller sites like this, you should get yourself an OS map of the part of the country you’re looking to visit. You can order them online, purchase them in most bookshops and outdoor shops, or download the Viewranger app as an electronic version.


More Irish Ruins:


Lavagh Abbey, Sligo, Ireland

Lavagh interior

Lavagh Court Abbey, Sligo, Ireland

Irish history isn’t always sunshine and roses. Much of it is fairly dark, oppressed for years under British rule. Remember arrogant (sexist) Henry VIII who couldn’t produce an heir due to his own inbred nature but kept blaming his wives? He decided to start his own divorce-friendly religion, which gradually took over and then punished Catholicism. across all English territories. In the 1500s, the Dissolution of the Monasteries swept across the nation, forcing the abandonment of Catholic monasteries. The crumbling Lavagh Court Abbey in southwest Sligo was no exception. Built in 1454 as a Franciscan Friary, Lavagh sits at the base of Knocknashee Hill (‘hill of the fairies’), which for centuries was held sacred by the pagans (Christians are like Hollywood directors – to get a wider audience and easier job, they ‘borrow’ stories, concepts and sacred people and places from other religions they were hoping to wipe out, something they did successfully in Ireland). Once home to both brothers and sisters of the order, Lavagh is a simple rectangular church topped with a squat stone tower and joined with a chancel. Containing extensive burial sites, it has now been taken over with ivy, plants and flowers. As you wander the burials outside, keep an eye over the walls of the far side – you’ll see an earth-topped stone cashel (ringfort), at least half a century older than Lavagh itself. (What more? Check out well-preserved cashel like Cashelore or Clougher Fort). Follow the path through the half-forgotten wind-beaten graveyard through the small ivy-clad door into another world. Greeted with an earthy, natural smell, Lavagh’s sacred stone walls are wallpapered in crisscrossing ivy and blanketed in soft earth and rustling leaves. Lush and emerald, the massive greenery-wrapped arch feels like a scene out of Narnia. Wandering this ancient, abandoned site, drink in the eerie, moody atmosphere and feel the weight of Mother Nature, a far older god than the one Lavagh was originally built for. This place is surely enchanted with ancient fairytale magic – and chances are, you’ll have it all to yourself.


Pro trip: When visiting this corner of Sligo, you have to climb Knocknashee Hill. Most people climb it via the far side, parking at Gilligan’s World, and passing through the farm gates to climb the very steep slopes to the top. But there is a new path from the Lavagh side being constructed, though process has temporarily halted due to CV-19. At the top, find ancient cairns, forts, and village foundations. Interested in the changing site of Lavagh? Take a look at Sligo artist Wakeman, and his famous 19th century drawings of Sligo monuments


More Ancient Places in Ireland’s Northwest


*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Carrowkeel Cairn B, Sligo, Ireland

Carrokeel cain B

Carrowkeel Cairn B, Sligo, Ireland

Carrowkeel is one of Ireland’s four great Neolithic-era complexes (the others being Newgrange and the Boyne Valley; Loughcrew, and Carrowmore, also in Co Sligo). It is also arguably the best. This little-known site is off the beaten path for most people, and even locals sometimes forget it’s there. Carrowkeel comprises of 14 tombs, with another 12 in the surrounding half-dozen kilometres. The tombs, or cairns as they are called, date back to the Neolithic era, and are about 5,000 years old. For reference’s sake…. that’s older than Machu Picchu, the Roman Colosseum, Stonehenge, and the Pyramids of Giza. Far older, in most cases. From the small car park, it’s a 5km roundtrip hike to Cairns G, H, and K, which are the most popular tombs (each tomb has a letter). The cairn you see high up on the hilltop to your right? That’s Cairn B – one of the least-visited and most amazing (and visible) tombs of all Carrowkeel. Like the others, it was opened when early 20th-century English archeologist Macallister “excavated” it. This was the height or barbaric English archeology, and his team was… less than gentle with this ancient, sacred place. More than one tomb suffered dynamite and tunnelling, most had cremated remains removed for “testing” (never to return to Ireland), and even other artefacts such as pottery removed and taken from Ireland. Cairn B is a simple passage tomb, with a short 1-2 metre long narrow passage (ungracefully on your hands and knees) to get inside the main chamber. In use for hundreds of years, these cairns would’ve housed the cremated remains of the local Neolithic people’s ancestors, visited regularly for mysterious rituals that we still don’t understand today. It is an amazing place.


Pro tip: Aligned with the Summer Solstice, come here to watch the sun set on the longest day of the year. Cairn B is little visited – most watch the light enter Cairn G’s chamber through the narrow “roofbox” opening. To get here, instead of turning left onto the small road to Carrowkeel from Castlebaldwin, keep straight. After the first large house, park and follow the farmer’s fence to the top. No trail and rough terrain, but the grade isn’t steep. 


Neolithic Europe:


*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Donegal Castle, Ireland

Donegal castle

Donegal Castle, Ireland

Wild and rugged, Donegal is a half-forgotten county in northwestern Ireland, cut of geopolitically from both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland. Its capital is Donegal town, which is home to Donegal Castle. The castle was built by the infamous Red Hugh O’Donnell in 1454, possibly on the site of an old fort, though no evidence remains. At this time, Ireland was divided into fluid regions, each ruled by a clan and led by a local chieftain. Because of the region’s remoteness as well as its poor agricultural terrain, Donegal and the the rest of the surrounding region of Ulster were the last to be conquered by the English. Red Hugh’s impressive fortress, stronghold of the O’Donnell clan, started life as a tower house, the most common Irish medieval fortification. In an attempt to get the chieftain’s under English control, the clan leaders where given the title of Earl. Not content and craving freedom, the Earls rebelled. The uprising was a failure, leading to the Flight of the Earls in 1607 and the total control of Ireland by the English crown. As was the custom, the English seized the castle from Irish ownership, and passed it on to a loyal Englishman as a reward for service – in this case, a fellow called Brookes, who later sold it to the wealthy Sligo-based family, the Gores. Brooke added the Jacobean manor-house to the left of the towerhouse, transforming it from military might to countryside estate. Sadly under the Gore family, Donegal Castle fell into ruin (likely to avoid paying taxes on it), and there it sat in quiet abandon until the 1990s, when the Irish government restored it. Today, it is one of Donegal’s most important parts of cultural heritage.


Pro tip: Donegal is well-known for tweed. Check out any number of tweed shops in town, or head over to Magees of Donegal for bespoke tweed garments. If you’re looking for a cosy tearoom and lovely pastries or light meals, try the Blueberry Tearooms in the town centre.


Nearby in Donegal & Northwest Ireland


*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Ballindoon Abbey, Sligo, Ireland

Ballindoon Abbey, Sligo, Ireland

Ireland is spilling over with ancient ruins, from the Neolithic through the Middle Ages to Georgian mansion and 20th century cottages. There are a lot of abbeys and friaries and priories in Ireland, and the majority of them are a lot like this one – in ruins. This we can blame on the terrible Englishman Oliver Cromwell whose horrid armies swept through Ireland in 1649 in order to “put those troublesome Irish back in their place” (I mean, how dare they ask for the right to rule themselves, speak their own language, or practice their own cultural traditions). He stomped through Ireland, burning and pillaging as he went. Even upon returning home, he left his son-in-law to continue his awful work. Ballindoon Abbey (also called Ballindoon Priory) is just one of many Irish abbeys to suffer at the fate of the disillusion of the abbeys. This gorgeous place rests quietly on the shores of Lough Arrow in Co Sligo. Built in the 14th century in the Gothic style, Ballindoon Abbey is small compared to some, but it is well preserved. It is has still been used in recent times as a gravesite. The tower overlooks the rest of the church, though there are stairs on the exterior, they are no longer usable. Ruined as it is, Ballindoon is a quiet place. Sitting on the pensive shores of a little-visited lake in a remote corner of Ireland, Ballindoon is picturersque, lonely and hauntingly beautiful. It is a testament to a long standing tradition and Ireland’s complicated relationship with both religion and England. Bring a camera, book and thermos of tea, and curl up here to escape from the world (likely met by the farmer’s cheerful black labrador pup!)


Pro tip: You’ll need a car, but Ballindoon Abbey is part of a supurb day trip from Sligo. Head over to Carrokeel tombs (5,000 years old!) for a 5km return hike to the tombs, then over to Lough Arrow to visit Ballindoon Abbey and up the hill behind Cromleach Lodge to visit Labby Rock. Hungry? On weekends, bounce over to Ballinafad Café (right next to the castle!) for a cosy community cafe for a cuppa and homemade treats, run 100% by volunteers in the community. 

Visit Near Ballindoon Abbey


*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Lough Gur, Ireland

Lough Gur

Castle of Lough Gur, Limerick, Ireland

“6,000 years of human life.” Stop and think about that for a second, and try to imagine that. 6,000 years. That’s older than the Pyramids of Giza. That’s long before the Romans – the Romans are practically modern compared to that! Same goes for the Greeks. The Middle Ages were practically last week compared to that! The Renaissance? The Reformation? Victorian times? The world wars. Yesterday. 6,000 years ago, Lough Gur was a-bustle with human life. Evidence of everything from the Neolithic era through the Bronze Age, Iron Age, Early Christian, Medieval, Early Modern and Modern eras has been found around Lough Gur. It is an area awash in mythology, and dotted with archeology – from ancient Neolithic times through to much more recent eras. For instance, the fortified tower-house Bourchier’s Castle (closed to visits), is decidedly medieval, built by the now-extinct Earls of Bath. There are ringforts in the area, Neolithic tombs and even Ireland’s largest stone circle. Amazingly, Lough Gur is also home to one of the most amazing finds – a complete Bronze Age Yetholm-type shield. The county and  city of Limerick, neither of which are likely on most people’s ‘must-visit’ list, has been making great strides to reinvigorate its streets and slightly-unsavoury reputation, and the county has plenty to offer – including the wonders of Lough Gur.


Pro tip: Visit the website for opening times. There is a copy of the shield at the Lough Gur Heritage Centre (which is small, and includes a small fee); the original is on display at the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin (free entry). This museum is well worth visiting even beyond the shield!


See More Ancient Sites


*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Ballina, Ireland

Ballina.jpg

Ballina, Ireland

The wee town of Ballina, first established in the Middle Ages, is not the sort of place that makes it on most Ireland tourists maps, largely due to its little-visited location in northwestern Ireland. Lively and colourful, Ballina portrays everything you’d expect out of a traditional Irish town: bustling downtown, cheery pubs, colourful facades and plenty of churches. Located in Co Mayo,  a rural region north of Galway, few people have heard of this region and even fewer visit. And it’s true that eastern Mayo isn’t terribly exciting – but the western and coastal parts of Mayo are some of Ireland’s most beautiful landscapes! From the ancient abbeys of Rosserk Friary and Rathfran Abbey to the wild cliffs and sea stack at Downpatrick Head, the ancient archeology of the Ciede Fields or the utter wilderness of Ballycroy, the Nephin Beg mountains and Banger Erris, this forgotten corner of Mayo packs a bundle. And the market town of Ballina makes for a perfect jumping-off point!


Pro tip: Though its location isn’t as dramatic as some other sites, check out the Neolithic monument (4,000 years old!), the Dolman of the Four Maols, just down from the train station. You can get to Ballina either by rail or bus, but to visit the wilds of Mayo, you’ll really need a car. 


Visit More on the Wild Atlantic Way


 

Autumn in Loughrea, Galway, Ireland

Loughrea cabin copy

Autumn in Loughrea, Galway, Ireland

Though perhaps less world-famous than America’s New England, Ireland in autumn is a spectacular place. The region of Galway is usually known for two places: the lively Galway City and the desolate mountains of Connemara in northwest Co Galway. Inland however, Galway holds other wonders, such as rural hills, crumbling ruins, tiny villages, and beautiful forests such as here at Loughrea. Loughrea in Co Galway is not an area well-known to tourists as it is inland and away from the ocean. Instead, it sits on the shores of a lake, with vestiges of its medieval history nearby (town walls, priories, and a gate). Founded by Richard de Burgo, an Anglo-Norman knight in 1236, the town grew based on its important location along the Shannon River. Despite its Norman origins, the family later adopted Gaelic names and traditions, and Loughrea, along with much of Connemara, was part of the Gaelic Revival in the late 1800s (which included the Irish language as well as Gaelic sports, architecture, music and other traditions), though its garrison status meant that it did not take part in the 1916 rebellion. This cabin near the small town of Loughrea is particularly idyllic, nestled into the brilliant golden leaves. In autumn these forests glow in a shimmering quilt of yellow, orange and red, making for some beautiful panoramas and lovely photos. Autumn in Ireland is a great time of year to get outdoors as there are few tourists and oftentimes a fair amount of clear days as long as you don’t mind a bit of chilly weather! At the end of the day, curl up by a turf fire in a traditional pub with a pint of Guinness while listening to trad music  and you have the perfect day.


Pro tip: Check out Irishtrails.ie for more info on hiking trails in Ireland and where to find the trailheads.


More Places in Ireland


 

Knocknarea & Cullenamore Strand, Ireland

Knocknarea reflections.jpg

Knocknarea & Cullenamore Strand, Ireland

Knocknarea is a very special place. Tucked away in a quiet corner of northwest Ireland on a little peninsula in County Sligo, Knocknarea is renowned for its history and legends. Though only 300 metres high, climbing to the top of this hill is a sacred act. Crowning this hill is a huge cairn from Neolithic times – over 5,000 years old! Sligo is riddled with ruins from the Neolithic era – at Knocknarea’s foot are the Carrowmore tombs (home to some 50 monuments!), and further inland, find the even more impressive Carrowkeel tombs – 20 monuments of which three are opened. There are other sites of course – Deerpark, Creevykeel, Knockvranny, Knocknashee, and so many more – and these are all in wee County Sligo! You could spend a lifetime trying to visit all of Ireland’s Neolithic sites… But yes, back to Knocknarea. Other than the huge cairn, there are a few satellite tombs, and the ruins of an ancient village (as well as a famine age abandoned village – both just a few houses). After Ireland was Christianised, many early Christians hung on to their beliefs, and the religious leaders had to find a way to compromise – such as Yule becoming Christmas, the Pagan goddess Brigid becoming a saint, and the fertility goddess Sheela na Gig giving Mary a higher status than in most contemporary – and patriarchal – Christian societies. And then there was the problem of understanding those societies who came before these early Christians (who were they, and why did they build these things!? Questions still unanswered today…). Knocknarea was therefore explained away using folklore. The cairn was attributed to the legendary (and semi-mythical) saviour and warrior queen of Connaght, buried upright in her great tomb under the cairn, facing her enemies from the North. Though this story is unlikely to be true, it’s clear that someone (well, many someones) are buried here, making this an ancient graveyard of sorts. It is one of Sligo’s iconic spots and can be seen from almost anywhere around Sligo town. Knocknarea is seen here from the far side reflected in the low tide sands of Cullenamore strand, a quieter alternative to busy Strandhill Beach – and also better for a long walk on the beach!


Pro tip: Don’t forget to bring a stone from the bottom of the hill up to the cairn for Queen Maeve! If you have a car, climb from the Queen Maeve Car Park. No car? Take the Strandhill bus and stop at the Centra – there is a path up this side starting here. A new path connects both sides with the Strandhill beach, famed for its surf. We recommend lunch/brunch at Shells, ice cream at Mammie Johnson’s and/or pizza and a pint at The Strand pub.  


Other places in Sligo


 

Coumshingaun Lake, Waterford, Ireland

Comeraghs Corrie -Coumshingaun Lake

Coumshingaun Lake of Comeragh Mountains, Co Waterford, Ireland

Ireland is a wealth of natural wonders – and the beautiful Comeragh Mountains located in southeast Ireland are one such wonder! Generally visited only by other Irish, and then again, largely by those already living in the southeast (such as residents of Kilkenny, Cork, Waterford or Wexford), the Comeragh Mountains aren’t on most Irish tourism itineraries, even for hiking enthusiasts who make a beeline for the west coast.  Within the already-magnificent Comeragh Mountains, Coumshingaun Lough (or lake) is of particular note. Though small enough, Coumshingaun is a corrie lake – a small, round lake carved deep into the mountainside, left behind by the massive glaciers that once covered Ireland during the Ice Age. Surrounded by 400 meter (1,300ft) cliffs that drop dramatically down into the glistening corrie lake far below, the whole setting is utterly stunning. Even more so when you consider your hike – a narrow, rocky trail that encircles the cliff edge all around the horseshoe-shaped canyon. Not for the faint hearted, expect to use both hands and feet as you hike up steep and mucky terrain, scrambling over rocks and boulders and trekking through wet boggy ground. Though not an easy hike, you’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping views over Coumshingaun Lake, the Comeragh Mountains and emerald hills stretching out to the horizon.


Pro tip: Not a great walk for children (unless quite fit and agile) or those who suffer from vertigo. Dogs are allowed on the land, but unless your dog is good at climbing, we recommend leaving them at home (though dogs who are used to scrambling up rocks and boulders will do just fine). No toilets, and only limited parking/picnicking space. Combine with a visit to the nearby Lismore Castle Gardens. Start point is at the Kilclooney Wood Car Park (parking is free). The hike is about 7.5km, longer (about 8.5 km) if you also walk to the lake’s edge.


Other Great Hikes in Ireland