Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, Romania

Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa – Roman Town, Romania

Deep in the belly of the wonderful beast that is Transylvania, stumble over the ruins of the once-thriving Roman town of Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetuza. If you’ve not brushed up on your Romanian history, the area that we now call Transylvania – as well as other parts of Romania – were once populated by the Dacian people. Part of a Roman emperor’s legacy was to conquer – and so, after a few skirmishes, in 101 AD, Emperor Trajan marched into Dacia and overthrew the Dacian king, Decebalus. (The conquest is commemorated by the victors on the now-famous Trajan’s Column in Rome). Once the Romans had installed themselves in Dacia, they did what they loved almost as much as conquering: they started to build. Roman towns, forts and outposts sprang up all over what was once Dacia. Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetuza was the capital and the largest city of Roman Dacia. Named for the pre-Roman Dacian capital some 40-50 km away, Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetuza was established quickly, becoming home to about 20,000 people, many of which were veterans of the war. Sarmizegetuza remained the political and religious epicentre of Roman Dacia for the next two centuries until its destruction by the Goths. Set in a beautiful location under the silhouette of the Retezat Mountains and hugged by lush green fields and meadows of vibrant wildflowers, it’s hard not to fall under the ruined city’s spell. Though largely razed, visitors can walk unimpeded through the ancient streets and houses, imagining what life was once like on Rome’s eastern frontiers. Stand in the centre of the oval ampitheatre, peek your head into the remains of the vaulted cellars, gaze upon the column bases, try your had at reading the Latin still carved on blocks of stone, wander the remnants of the forum, and reflect on life and death in the foundations of the old temple. There’s a museum there too, but even if you don’t get a chance to visit it, you’ll still get your dose of all things Roman simply by breathing the air, wandering the alleys and touching the stones carved 2,000 years ago.


Tip: If you’re arriving via the town of Hatag, keep an eye out for the extravagant Roma gypsy mansions. You haven’t seen anything like them!


More Romans


Bathhouse in Bevagna, Italy

Bathhouse in Bevagna, Italy

Imagine that this room is filled with water. Splashes from swimmers and and chatter from the other bathers, hawkers selling their goods at the waterside… and sea monsters swimming across the pool’s bottom. Bathhouses were popular in ancient Roman times. They were the beating heart of society in many ways. A combination of a spac, cafe, a co-working facility and Facebook, bathhouses were a place to meet up, to do business, to catch up with friends and brag about new ventures. They were also a place to relax, get clean and enjoy the good life. Rome was full of hundreds of bathhouses, and most Roman towns had their own. This bathhouse in the small and otherwise unknown Umbrian town of Bevagna (Mevania in Roman times) is hidden behind a relatively banal modern(ish) facade down an inconspicuous side street that you’d really have no other reason on which to venture. It’s the definition of a hidden gem. Like most Roman bathhouses, Bevagna’s bathhouse fanned the flames of the Roman ego and its love of all things flamboyant: architecture, art, mosaics, marbles and excessive amounts of water, carried to the towns and cities thanks to its impressive system of aqueducts. Once full of water, the pool floor was decorated with a (rather terrifying) array of sea “creatures” (read: monsters!): leaping dolphins, creeping lobsters, entwined seahorses, swimming fish, and tentacled octopi (because, yes, that is an octopus there, not a spider. Despite how it looks. Perhaps the artist had never seen an octopus and was basing his design on a description of one?) One thing is for sure – though a fascinating place to visit, would you really want to swim in that pool? Not me!


Tip: You can’t just walk in here. That would be too easy for rural Italy. You have to call the tourism office ahead of time and organise a visit – and you’ll likely need at least basic Italian to do so. Not able to do that? You can walk by the bathhouse and get a good view of the pool and mosaics through the window, even if you can’t get inside. Better than nothing!


More Ancient Bathhouses


Skopje Kale Fortress, North Macedonia

Skopje Fortress, North Macedonia

Tomato-red poppies dance in the sunlight on the embankments of Skopje‘s fortress. With roots traced back to the 6th century and Roman emperor Justinian, this historic monument sits at Skopje’s highest point. These crumbling limestone and travertine walls have long presided over and protected this Balkan city. Though times have changed and modern-day threats are no longer thwarted by imposing stone walls, Skopje Fortress – known as Kale Fortress – remains a symbol of city, appearing on the city’s coat of arms, city flag, and most of the city’s tourist materials. Old and weather-worn, the long-standing fortress makes a striking contrast with ultra-shine of the new buildings in new Skopje, such as those around the area of Macedonia Square. That duality defines Skopje – it is a place both old and new, both eastern and southern, both Balkan and Mediterranean, both Muslim and Christian. North Macedonia is an unusual place that deserves a spot on your next Balkan itinerary, a perfect mix of east and west and south, of European and Balkan and Ottoman, a place with an ancient history and a new identity – not to mention a welcoming culture.


Tip: Try the Turkish coffee! It’s strange and strong and unique. Watching the sunset from the fortress is a great way to end the day.


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The Roman Colosseum, Italy

The Roman Colosseum, Italy

It is the the most iconic site in Italy. The most iconic Roman ruin. One of the most iconic images associated with travel, history and violence in the world. Welcome to the Roman Colosseum. True to its name, it is immense. It doesn’t have a pretty history, and has unfortunately has left a bad taste in many people’s mouths when it comes to Romans – calling to mind images of violence, bloodshed, and cruelty. Animals and humans alive butchered for sport. While all of that is sadly true, the Colosseum is not all that Romans have to offer. Yes they were a conquering bunch but they did amazing things too. Did you know that the recipe for Roman cement – which clearly lasts! – was only discovered in recent years? The Romans gave us things like an amazing network of roads. They brought clean water to cities from sources miles away on their tremendous aqueducts, making it possible for cities to sustain large, healthy populations. Though they conquered new lands, they let the people worship their own gods, even adopting their gods into Roman pantheon. Citizenship and advantages were granted across the Roman Empire. Though still harsh for our standards, being a Roman woman was a lot better than being a woman in any European society for the next 1,700 years or so. Terrible things happened at the Colosseum, but the building itself, built by Vespasian (and later Titus) starting in 70 BC, is an incredible feat of architecture. In fact, the Roman Colosseum was the largest ancient amphitheatre ever built, and remains the largest standing amphitheatre in the world today, once able to hold up to 80,000 spectators. In addition to the bloody gladiatorial games and executions, the Colosseum was also used for less horrible actions such as public spectacles, re-enactments of famous battles, dramas based on Roman mythology, and even occasional mock sea battles, when the Colosseum was actually flooded! The Romans were experts in engineering, architecture and technology, and they had a rich culture and livelihood that goes beyond violent gladiators and conquering territories.


Pro tip: The Colosseum will always be busy. Book ahead and arrive early, if you really want to visit. Otherwise, there are many other arenas, circuses, ampitheatres, and theatres throughout Europe. The Arena of Nimes, Lyon’s Fourviere theatre, or the great theatres of Pompeii are all alternatives, and there are a number of smaller structures like Sagunto, Spoleto, Vienne, Ulpia Traiana, and so many others found across the ancient Roman Empire.


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Baths of Caracalla, Rome, Italy

The Baths of Caracalla, Rome, Italy

Just south of Rome‘s great collection of fora, each erected in whatever remaining space the current emperor could find, are the might Baths of Caracalla. The incredible buildings of the Baths of Caracalla were once Rome’s second-largest bathhouses (and its ruins still are the second biggest). Built between AD 212 and 217, these huge baths were in use until the 530s. Roman baths were much more than a place to get clean. Rome had over 800 bathhouses, and while most would be akin to small neighbourhood meet-ups, a few were built on impressive scales. Such buildings functioned as baths as well as a social outing, a place of business and networking, even a place for shopping and commerce. Imagine them as a mashup of Facebook, LinkedIn, a conference centre, a cafe, the public library, and a shopping mall. With separate bathing facilities for males and females as well as saunas, a massive swimming pool not to mention a library, shopping arcade and more, all free and open to the public, the Baths of Caracalla would have offered a great day’s outing for a Roman. Heated by the efficient hypocaust system used in other bathhouses (in which heated water was achieved by burning coal and wood underground to heat water provided by an aqueduct), it is estimated that this massive structure required workers to install 2,000 tonnes of building material (combination of marble, pozzolana, lime, tuff and basalt) every day for six years. In Ancient Rome, Emperors were expected to do a number of things – chiefly, conquer new territory, keep peace amongst the Roman citizens, and improve/leave their mark on Roma. Built atop an older villa, Caracalla left his mark on the Eternal City by constructing his huge bathhouse whose towering Roman ruins still amaze and impress visitors today.


Tip: Get to the Baths of Caracalla early (when they first open) or if possible book tickets in advance. Lines get very long very fast. The same can be said for those who want to visit a forum. It should be noted that visitors can see all of the forums from street level but if you wish to walk amongst them, you will need tickets and those lines are long.


Other Impressive European Baths


Sagunto Castle & Theatre

Sagunto Castle & Theatre

A short distance to the north of Valencia is the town of Sagnuto. In a way, it’s a duel village – Puerto de Sagunto is the newer town on the coast, while Sagunto, 6 km inland, is the old town. Perhaps old isn’t the right word – quite ancient would be more accurate. In fact, at the heart of Sagunto, there is a Roman amphitheatre and what is left of an ancient forum. And just above the theatre there is a beautiful medieval castle lining the hilltop. In the village below there is a labyrinth of narrow streets, pretty squares and brightly-painted houses. Founded around 219 BC as the Roman city of Saguntum, the local colonists sided with Rome against its great enemy Carthage (modern-day Tunisia). This provoked the infamous Second Punic War but later Saguntum was rebuilt into a grand and prosperous city, including a new theatre that could fit up to 8,000 spectators. (Contemporary texts suggest that the population of 50,000; only slightly smaller than today’s 65,000). While the vestiges of an acropolis, forum and the Temples of Artemis and Aphrodite still survive to some extent, it is the amphitheatre that is the star of the town, and has been largely restored in modern times. Also on the hilltop (part of the Sierra Calderona mountains), is Sagunto Castle, a massive stone fortress that is a mix of Roman, Moorish and medieval origins. Perhaps most impressive are the great curtain walls, dating from the Islamic period. And down in the town centre, find a patchwork of bright facades, cheerful restaurants, lively plazas and tiny bakeries full of delicious goodies. For a small, little-known town, this is place surely packs a bundle. 


Pro tip: You’ll get great views from the Porta d’Almenara, overlooking the castle. Tucked under the castle, there are a network of little footpaths and it’s easy enough to find a quiet place to escape from the world – with a great bird’s-eye view of the town, of course!  


Visit Eastern Spain 


Theatre of Pompey Ruins, Rome, Italy

Ruins of the Theatre of Pompey, Rome, Italy

Ah, the Theatre of Pompey. Central Rome – the Eternal City, Italy. Founder of perhaps the greatest empire to ever span the earth. Much remains of Rome’s 2,000+ year old origins. It’s nearly impossible to walk more than a few minutes in any direction through Rome’s old town without stumbling over (yes, in some cases, actually stumbling; its ancient vestiges are everywhere) some sort of ancient Roman ruin, be it temple or column, road or wall, aqueduct or gate, bathhouse, or ordinary house. Or – the theatre. Like us today, the Romans loved the good life, and they liked to relax. They did this in a variety of ways – the circus (actually more akin to attending a football or rugby match) – the bathhouse (actually more akin to the way we socialise in coffee shop or online via facebook) – the infamous (and bloody) games that Rome is unfortunately so famous for (despite their actual rarity, compared to modern depictions) – or the theatre. The theatre was actually a lot like our theatre (and cinema), and was a social event, though this was before electrical lighting, obviously, so most performances actually took place during daylight hours. This particular Theatre of Pompey has very little that remains. It is located a little way from the centre, and on the surface, all that remains is the slightly curved street design built over the theatre. But underneath is another story. In the basement of a restaurant and nearby hotel, significant vestiges of this infamous theatre remain. Infamous, you say? It was here, in 44 BC, on the Ides of March, that Brutus et al killed Julius Caesar. Et tu, Brute? 


Pro tip: Want to see the remnants of the Theatre of Pompey? Head into Pancrazio restaurant, where you can head downstairs and see original parts of the theatre, vestiges of the tunnels that would have snaked around behind the amphitheatre. Pancrazio restaurant, far from being over touristy, is actually pretty good, and has some delicious wine. We recommend the seafood linguine. Underground sections can also be spotted in the walls of the hotel Albergo Sole al Biscione.


More of Italy: 


Church of Pont du Chateau, France

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Église Sainte Martine in Pont du Chateau, France

Pont du Chateau is a small, cosy town in the heart of the largely-overlooked province of Auvergne, generally recognised for volcanic landscapes, quintessential villages, hearty dishes and cheese. With its name literally translating to “bridge of the castle,” you just know Pont du Chateau will be lovely! The famed stone bridge that bisects the River Allier has been a historic crossing point for generations, and a reason for the town’s long-standing good fortune. Overlooking the River Allier, the beautiful Eglise Sainte Martine casts its tousled reflection in the river’s rippled surface. Dedicated to a 3rd century Roman martyr, this church even has sections of it constructed during the Roman era – made of a local rock called “arkose” – while other sections of Sainte Martine were erected during the Gothic era of churches (i.e. medieval France), using volcanic stone quarried at Volvic (yes that name is familiar because Volvic is also a leading producer of bottled water). And the hilly site itself once served as fortress for the Carolingians owning to its positioning overlooking the river and near the castle. Inside, Sainte Martine Church’s lovely multi-coloured pillars and arcades date to the 12th and 13th centuries – it is amazing how such an old building is in such a great state even today. Pont-du-Chateau is an old village full of history, ever-apparent in the winding town centre, though a modern town has grown around the tangle of cobbled streets and wattle-and daub-facades. The castle of the town name is less a castle and more a manor or domaine; it is instead a fancy 17th-century structure that now houses the mayor’s office. Pont du Chateau is on few tourist maps but it is a great example of a true Auvergne town!


Pro tip: A walk or jog along the river is a great place to enjoy for this view and more. There is a lovely path perfect for a morning jog, eventually heading to other local riverside towns. Auvergne is a great county for cheese – local to the area, try the fourme d’Ambert, St Nectaire, le Cantal or le bleu d’auvergne. You can get fresh cheese at many of the local shops. 



 

Mussenden Temple, Northern Ireland

Mussenden Temple

Mussenden Temple, Northern Ireland

Would you believe this “temple” actually dates to only the 18th century and is located in Northern Ireland? Strangely enough, that’s the truth. One would call it a folly (i.e. a fake building built to look like something much older). Mussenden Temple was built by Lord Bristol in 1785. The estate was originally that of Frederick, the 4th Earl of Bristol (yes, Bristol, England…he’s far from home! Sadly this happened often – English “heroes” were given stolen Irish land), who was the Church of Ireland (e.g. Protestant) Bishop of Derry for 35 years in the late 1700s. Lord Bristol modelled his temple on the Roman Temple of Vesta in the Roman Forum, though despite appearances, Mussenden Temple’s original purpose was a library. Located on the estate of Downhill Demense (now a sprawling ruin), the temple is precariously perched atop a cliff overlooking the lovely Downhill Strand. Though the temple itself did not appear in the infamous TV show Game of Thrones, the site was used as a backdrop for some scenes – in particular, Downhill Strand’s beach was one such site used. Nothing is left of the house but a shell, and though the temple fares slightly better, it is no longer a library. Coastal erosion is bringing the temple ever closer to the edge and though solutions are being looked at to keep the temple from tumbling down to the sea, you may want to visit sooner rather than later…


Pro tip: You can actually get married at this temple…imagine that! Also note that dog lovers can bring their pups with them when visiting Downhill Demense and Mussendun Temple. There are also lovely gardens on far side of the estate. Nearby, don’t miss the world-famous Giant’s Causeway or Bushmill’s Distillery, Ireland’s oldest.


Other Game of Thrones Filming Sites


 

Porta Palatina in Torino, Italy

Torino gate

The Porta Palatina / Palatine Gate in Torino, Italy

A Roman-age city gate in the Northern Italian city of Torino (or Turin), the magnificent Porta Palatina makes for a grand entryway into Torino’s city centre. We’re lucky to have the gate – it very nearly got torn down in the 18th century for an “Urban renewal” project during an era when people weren’t as concerned with protecting heritage and artefacts as they are now. Today surrounded by modern building complexes (many of which are adorned with graffiti and other non-art), the Porta Palatina is no less stunning for its less-than-grand locale. In fact, the Porta Palatina is one of the best-preserved Roman gates in Europe (certainly of its time), and represents the most important archeological site of Torino, along with the nearby Roman theatre. A large city in northwestern Italy, Torino is a place made up of broad avenues, great palaces, and grand architecture common to other near-Alpine cities (Lyon, Lausanne and Grenoble spring to mind). Built in the 1st century during the Augustan Age, this immense brick gate would have once been incorporated into the city defensive wall and probably attached to a palace (where the name likely comes from), and would have been just as impressive then as now. Gates in Roman times served to protect cities from invasion or simply keep records of who (and what) is coming to and from a city. Later, it was incorporated into a medieval fortification before falling into ruin for several centuries. Italy is full of Roman ruins of various types and scales – when visiting northern Italy, don’t miss the lovely city of Torino (Julia Augusta Taurinorum in Roman times) with its ancient and modern wonders, and impressive view of the Alps!


Pro tip: Find the Porta Palatina in the modern-day Piazza Cesare Augusto. Torino is most famed for its “Shroud of Turin” which supposedly shows the visage of Jesus. Though the age disproves this, the Shroud is still a fascinating find. Visit the Museo della Sindone to find out more. Italy is also known for its cheeses – in particular, try local cheeses such as Fontina d’Aosta (cow), Asiago (cow) and Robiola (goat, cow or sheep). Pair with local red wine!


 More of Torino & Nearby


 

Lausanne, Switzerland

Lausanne

Lausanne, Switzerland

Lausanne is one of those places that usually gets overlooked in favour of its older siblings: Geneva, Zurich, Lucerne, Zermatt. And yet, this underrated Swiss city on the shores of lovely Lac Léman deserves a visit. You won’t find the classy Cartiers and Rolexes of Geneva here, nor will you find the epic skiing of Zermatt and Interlacken, nor the quaintness of Lucerne. Instead, you’ll find a city that feels authentic and lively without feeling touristy or fake. With roots that go back to Roman times (the city’s name comes from the Roman camp  Lousanna), Lausanne does not want for history – though nor is does it feel dusty and left behind. Old world charm mixes with modern buildings that parade across Lausanne’s city centre, marking the various epoques of the city. Lausanne is the capital and largest city in the Francophone region of Vaud (population 140,000). The city rests on the Swiss side of Lac Léman, facing France across the lake. Climb to the top of the hill to visit the magnificent 12th century Lausanne Cathedral, which has several important medieval features, as well as a massive and unique organ that took some 10 years to construct, and contains about 7,000 pipes! Also nearby is the Chateau de Saint Marie, current seat of the Vaud Canton government. From the top of this hill, you’ll get a lovely view of the city rooftops. Another place for great city views is the Fondation de l’Hermitage park and manor, just north of the centre. Back in Lausanne, wander through the quaint cobblestone streets of the old town before heading to the more modern part of town for a bite to eat!


Pro tip: Lausanne cuisine is similar to many other places in the ancient Savoy region. While here, be sure to try the many cheeses like Gruyere (or even visit the town of Gruyere not far away!), emmental, Swiss tomes, reblochon, Vacherin Mont-d’Or or raclette cheese (used for traditional raclette dishes), as a few examples. Also, take the train (keep in mind prices are not cheap) to the village of Montreux to visit the breath-taking Chateau de Chillon. 


Other Notable Stops in the Alps

 

Etruscan Tomb in Fiesole, Italy

Etruscan Tomb in Fiesole, Tuscany, Italy near Florence

Etruscan Tomb in Fiesole, Italy

The Etruscans were an ancient civilisation in central Italy from the 7th century BC until the Romans conquered the powerful civilisation, assimilating it into their ever-growing Roman Empire at the end the 4th century BC. Even today, the Etruscan influence cannot be denied; Eturia’s ancient heartland even lent it’s name to the modern region of Tuscany. In its heyday, Etruria reached as far north as the Po River valley, past Rome along the coast to modern-day Naples (in the Campania region). A merchant community, the Etruscans grew rich and powerful on trade with the northern Celtic communities as well as the ancient Greeks, who influenced much of their culture. Etruscans had a vivid pantheon of gods and used their wealth to fill their tombs – which is where much of our understanding of their culture, history, art and architecture comes from. The village of Fiesole, some 10km from Florence, is both a tranquil escape from the bustle of Florence as well as a time capsule to the ancient Etruscans and Romans. Here, find crumbling Etruscan walls, what remains of the Roman baths built later on, and a Roman amphitheater still used today for summer events. Nearby, there’s even the green hilltop where Leonardo da Vinci once experimented with flight! Once a powerful rival to Florence, Fiesole was founded as an Etruscan town in the 8th century BC until the Romans finally conquered and destroyed it, building their own Roman town on Fiesole’s roots. In the 1500s during the magnificent Italian renaissance, Florentine nobles moved out of Florence and built their splendid villas much like movie stars do today in glamorous SoCal towns. Fiesole’s beauty also inspired writers and artists such as Oscar Wilde and EM Forster, making cameos in their work.


Pro tip: Take bus #7 from San Marco Piazza to Fiesole. Or, splurge on the hop-on-hop-off bus to see even more of Florence and its region. 


Amazing Places to Visit in Italy

 

 

Nimes Canals, France

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The Canals of Nîmes, France

The Roman city of Nîmes has been a splendid city in the south of France for thousands of years. Known for its chic boutiques, terrific Roman ruins (including the amazing Roman Arena), and mild Mediterranean climate, Nîmes has long been regarded as one of France’s most beautiful cities – and best-kept secrets of France’s Languedoc-Roussillon/Midi-Pyrenees region. But not all of Nîmes is ancient. The Romans built a spring (the Spring of Nemo) and decorated it with a temple (now gone). But in the 1700s, the growing city needed a better source of safe drinking water, and therefore opted to construct a network of canals. Ulterior motives included powering Nîmes’ mills to sustain its’ top-ranking position in the textile industry as well as the indigo dying industry for a new product, serge de Nîmes, better known today as denim (from the French, ‘de’ or ‘from’ Nîmes; indeed, thank Nîmes for your jeans!). The project became a grand affair, and included a beautiful park laced with ornate statues, exotic gardens, and of course, the wide, boulevardesque canals. They were the first gardens in France created for the benefit of the public, not royalty. Today’s visitors to Nîmes who wander the park and the canals will still feel the glamour and elegance that exudes off these complex and orate 18th century creations, so important to the Nîmois. 


Pro tip: Not far above the canals is the wonderful Jardin de al Fontaine topped with the Tour de Magne. Visit the region for a place for a lovely stroll through lush gardens and delightful sculptures and panoramic views. 


More Beautiful Canals in Europe
  1. Bruges, Belgium
  2. Ghent, Belgium
  3. Annecy, France
  4. Strasbourg, France
  5. Copenhagen, Denmark
  6. Amsterdam, Netherlands
  7. Bath, England

 

Arena of Nîmes, France

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The Arena of Nîmes, France 

The Arena in the centre of Nîmes (formally Nemausus) is one of those places that is both beautiful and terrifying. Built in 70 AD, the Arena is one of the first things you come face to face with when arriving in Nîmes. Despite being destroyed in 737 by angry Franks, the completely round building with windows and doors all intact, is beautiful today thanks to a refurbishment in 1863. Once upon a time, the amphitheatre was fortified by the Visgoths, then the viscounts of Nîmes actually built a fortified castle inside its walls, and then a small neighbourhood was built inside the half-ruined building (complete with two chapels and 100 inhabitants!) – talk about reuse and recycle! But since the mid 1800’s when the ‘neighbourhood’ was removed and the amphitheatre restored, the beautiful Arena has sadly been used for bullfighting, with two fights held every year. Despite this unfortunate choice in repurposing (bull fighting, though a closely-held cultural tradition in southwestern France and throughout Spain, is a cruel game that is unjust to the animals forced to participate), the Arena is still one of the most beautiful examples of the Roman reach in what was once the region of Gaul, of the Roman Empire, more 2,000 years ago. While in the region, don’t miss out on the nearby Pont du Gard, an aqueduct bridge part of the Nîmes aqueduct, a 50-kilometre (31 mile) structure to carry water from Uzes to Nîmes (built 1st century AD).


More About Roman Places in Europe
  1. Roman Ruins in Aosta, Italy
  2. Ampitheatre in Lyon, France
  3. Roman Baths in Bath, England
  4. Pont du Gard, France
  5. Segovia Aqueduct, Spain
  6. Temple d’Auguste et de Livie in Vienne, France

Pont du Gard, France

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Pont du Gard, Gardon (or Gard) River, France

Not many architects can say that their construction will lest centuries, let alone millennia, though many Romans can. Not many tourists can say that they have beheld constructions that are more than a millennia old, though those who have visited the magnificent Pont du Gard can. This ‘pont’ (‘bridge’ in French) over the Gard (also called the Gardon) River in the south of the Hexagon is one of the the most country’s most spectacular ancient sites, left over from the days when the Roman-dominated territory was called Gaul, and Lyon (or ‘Lugdnumum‘) was still the capital. Built around 40-60 AD spanning 275m at its longest point, the aqueduct in entirety descends only 17 m over the course of it’s length, while the Pont du Gard has a mere 2.5 centimetres slant, which makes you marvel at the ingenuity and intelligence of the Romans without computers, machinery, calculators or any other aspects of modern technology. The Pont is impressive enough when viewed from land, but the best way to truly experience such a structure is the way it was meant to be seen – by water. So, jump in a canoe or kayak, grab your paddle, splash through the Gard River and don’t be afraid to get wet!

Verona, Italy

Verona

Verona, Italy

Typically known to be a place of vibrant colors, here is another perspective of the famed Italian city. Known as the scene of Shakespeare’s immortal Romeo & Juliet, Verona is more than a city of doomed lovers. (It is also the namesake of “Two Gentlemen in Verona,” and the setting for “The Taming of the Shrew.” Ha!) Verona is a city of architecture, a city of color, of history. It is a city that has ties to the Romans, to Dante, to Shakespeare. Nestled along the Adige River, the cobbled streets of Verona twist and turn along the river’s banks. In fact, it was this convergence at the river’s bend and intersection with several main roads that led to Verona’s growth during the Roman Empire. Over the next 2,000 years, it changed hands too many times to count (some of the most important were the Romans, Ostrogoths, Lombards, Bavarians, the counts of San Bonifacio, the della Scala family – who seems to have turned on each other several times with treason, betrayal and fratricide – Venetians, Napoleon, Austrians, the Nazis, and finally, present-day Italy). It is a city steeped in history, a city that, though you would not know it from its appearance, has maintained a strong military presence due to its strategic position for most of its existence.

Segovia, Spain

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Aqueduct in Segovia, Spain

Masters of art, of culture, of language, of theatre, of architecture, of engineering – we can all agree that the Romans were impressive people. While much of their constructions dies with the fall of the Roman Empire, we can still catch a glimpse of Roman ingenuity from time to time. The Roman Colosseum, the Pont du Gard, the Pantheon, the Spa of Bath, the ruins of Aosta, the Fourvière Amphitheatre in Lyon…Roman ruins exist all over Europe, Northern Africa, and the M.E. However, one of the most impressive and most accessible exemplars is found in Segovia, Spain. Though the exact date of construction is a mystery, it is thought to date from the reign of Emperor Domitian (AD 81-96), and runs for roughly 32 km on a 1% grade to the city centre. While most of it is still authentic, there is a hefty part (36 arches to be exact) that date from only the 15th century, rebuilt after it was destroyed by the Moors. However, this doesn’t affect the beauty or impressiveness of the ruins. The arches of the aqueduct march right through the town centre, traversing plazas and streets, cafes and buildings. The people milling about the ancient structure seem small in comparison to the enormous arches. When you finally approach the giant feet of the structure, and slowly make your way up the stairs to take you to the top, you feel the goosebumps on your arms as you realise just however impressive is that they constructed this magnificent engineering feat long before the age of machines.


Find More Roman Ruins in Europe
  1. Roman Ruins in Aosta, Italy
  2. Ampitheatre in Lyon, France
  3. Roman Baths in Bath, England
  4. Pont du Gard, France
  5. Arena of Nimes, France
  6. Temple d’Auguste et de Livie in Vienne, France

 

Temple in Vienne, France

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Temple d’Auguste et de Livie, Vienne, France

Not to be confused with “Vienna, Austria” (despite both having the same name in French), is this little town in central France, lost somewhere along the route from Lyon to Marseille. Vienne would be a typical, mildly-attractive French town if not for a few distinct features…namely, the gigantic Roman temple located in the main town square, not to mention the Roman amphitheater and a “pyramid” (though not at all what you are currently picturing). It’s a strange sensation, wandering through a maze of streets, streets one finds in most French towns and cities, and then rounding a corner and–suddenly–coming upon this ancient, free-standing temple that seems as if it tumbled off a page in book on the Roman Empire. The Temple d’Auguste et de Livie was designed in the Corinthian style and was erected by the emperor Claudius around 20 BC. The main reason why it survived when so many of its sisters were destroyed was its conversion to a church and renaming to match the rise in Christianity, “Notre Dame de Vie.” Additionally, it was briefly converted during the Reign of Terror to celebrate the new god, the “Supreme Being,” and the new “order of Reason” created by the infamous Robespierre during the dechristianisation of France. Today, it resides in this sleepy French town, unconcerned about change or modernity or the passage of time, content merely to exist.


More Places in Southeastern France
  1. Pont d’Avignan
  2. Nimes Arena
  3. Marseille Harbour
  4. St Guilheim-le-Desert (Les Cevennes National Park)
  5. Lake Annecy in the Alps

 

Theater of Fourvière in Lyon, France

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Roman Amphitheater of Fourvière in Lyon, France

The amphitheater here in Lyon is not perhaps quite as famous as the one in Rome, nor is it as complete as, say, the theaters of Nimes or Arles or any of the others. Regardless, one must admit that it’s pretty fascinating that remnants from more than 2000 years ago not only still exist in Europe today–but are still in use! Lyon’s half-ruined amphitheater located at the top of the hill of Fourvière is still used to host Les Nuits a Fourvière (Nights in Fourvière) every summer, where concerts and other events take place nearly every night. Though partially reconstructed, one can still walk through this ancient structure which in part, dates back to 15 BC (the second stage having been completed during the 2nd century). Ruins or not, sitting down in a 2000-year-old amphitheater is enough to send shivers down anyone’s spine!

Roman Ruins in Aosta, Italy

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Ruins of the Roman theatre in Aosta, Italy

We all know that Romans were some of the most advanced builders of all time. Things they constructed not only still exist today, but are often still in use. Here in Aosta, a “bilingual” city in northern Italy (not far from the French border), one sees many Roman vestiges. Why? Well, around 25 BC, Marcus Terentius Varro conquered the local people and “founded” the Roman colony, Augusta Praetoria Salassorum, and a few years later, it became the capital of the ‘Alpes Graies’ (“Grey Alps” if you couldn’t guess!) region of the Roman Empire because of its strategic location on the crossroads from Rome to modern-day France and Germany. Of course, everything is aligned on a grid, all is divided equally, centered around the main road–these are the Romans we’re talking about! As for the theatre itself, it dates back to the reign of Claudius, and held up to 4000 people. It’s no longer in use today…but just next door is the marketplace, which is still regularly used! The city itself sits on a impressive backdrop of the Alps. Along with the rest of the castle-filled Aosta Valley, the city is also well-known for wine. With the Roman ruins, the magnificent Alps, the surrounding landscape of flowers and villages, the happy Italians, the lovely blend of French and Italian, and the delicious wine (and pizza…this is Italy after all!), Aosta is the place to be!

Sagunto, Spain

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Sagunto, Spain

It’s hard to imagine that in 12 days (twelve!), I will be back in Spain – and for the whole summer! Spain is certainly one of those countries that is so…flavourful, so memorable. Memories of Spain do not get jumbled into a pile of “vaguely-European memories;” instead, they stand out, just like this bright orange house in the adorable village of Sagunto, not far from Valencia. Spanish cities are great for the nightlife, but Spanish villages are where you go if you like to eat, drink, take beautiful photos, see ancient buildings, and watch the magnificent sunsets. Sagunto, an ancient Roman city, may not be huge and sprawling, but it creates its own miniature “bustling” world. The people are nice, the weather is great, the beach is close (6km), the beer is cheap, and the views are fantastic – what more could you want?

Florence, Italy

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Ponte Vecchio in Florence, Italy

Ah, Florence, city of art and fine dining. City of Dante and his Divine Comedy, of Michelangelo and his David, Leonardo, Botticelli, Donatello, and Brunelleschi. How has one place produced so many great artists? And don’t forget the architecture–museums, palaces, churches, the Duomo. Bridge after bridge cross the Arno River—though of course the most famous is Ponte Vecchio, the beautiful covered bridge in the centre of Florence. The bridge dates back to medieval times. It was once common for bridges to be enclosed and lined with shops and stands, but few such bridges like this remain. Once the site of a Roman bridge, the Ponte Vecchio connects the two banks of the Arno at its narrowest point. Over the course of time, it has been weakened or swept away by floods and other disasters but has always been rebuilt. A common legend proposes that the Ponte Vecchio created both the term and phenomenon of bankruptcy, as any merchant on the bridge who could not pay his bills had his table or “banco” broken (“rotto”) by the authorities to render any further sales impossible (hence, “bancorotto.”) Oh, did I mention that, along with Pulteney Bridge in Bath and the Rialto Bridge in Venice, the Ponte Vecchio is the only other remaining bridge with shops on it in  Europe (all of which I’ve visited…)? Pretty cool!

 

Trg Republike, Split, Croatia

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Trg Republike, Split, Croatia

Republic Square, or Prokurative as it is known locally, is Split’s magnificent (and largest) of public squares. Because of its Neo-Renaissance style and usage of Venice as a model, walking through Trg Republike is like stepping into Venice. And it’s not only this square that one has the feeling of being in Italy—Croatia and Italy share a long history dating back thousands of years. Located just across the Adriatic Sea from Italy, Croatia was geographically located at the centre of the Roman Empire. This proximity bound the Dalmatians to the Venetians—who were regarded as the Mistresses of the Adriatic—as they shared both culture and language. Today, though Croatia and Italy are two separate countries speaking languages from two separate language families, the pair have much in common: architecture, food, weather, lifestyle, landscape. Yet still, even with all of these superficial similarities, the people still hold onto their own traditions, their own uniqueness, their own culture—and Croatia is a country worth getting to know.

Temple of Augustus and Livia, Vienne, France

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Temple of Augustus and Livia, Vienne, France

Nope, not Greece, not Italy, not even Cyprus. It’s actually France! Yes, it’s a little surprising to find such stereotypically Roman architecture so far from home, but there’s actually a decent amount of Roman remnants here in France. The temple was erected by emperor Claudius and survived the fall of the Romans as well as everything since then mostly because the citizens had the foresight to convert it to a church (“Notre Dame de Vie”). It dates back to 10-20 BC – needless to say, it’s very old. And very unexpected. While Vienne is an attractive town, it’s not terribly distinctive at first. One walks through small streets ducking old women with shopping carts and old men with berets and baguettes (I might be playing up the stereotypes a little). One turns the corner, and suddenly, wham. An open square lined with cafes and little shops, all facing this magnificent Roman temple dedicated to a long-dead-but-never-forgotten emperor. C’est magnifique, ne c’est pas?


More on European History
  1. Castillo Xativa, Spain
  2. Fantoft Stave Church, Norway
  3. Sacra di San Michele, Italy
  4. Danish Sugar Factory, Denmark
  5. Fisherman’s Bastion, Hungary

 

Bath, England

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Bath, England

Pictures cannot convey the essence and beauty of Bath. Bath, to me, is one of the top 5 prettiest cities in Europe. Bath also happens to be my home, having studied there 3 years ago (I have a lot of homes). It is my dream to one day move back, or really, just move back to anywhere in the UK, my favourite country. This is the cathedral square, which also happens to be the entrance to the famous Roman Baths.  Bath was established by the Romans in 60 AD, not long after they arrived in Britain. Upon finding the hot springs here, they built the spa town, Aquae Solis, and much later, Edgar was crowned king here in 973, at Bath Abbey, upon which we are currently standing. Founded in the 7th century, Bath Abbey was rebuilt 12th-16th, today, standing standing as proud as it ever did. Bath is a city built of limestone (from the nearby quarry). In the 19th century, it was as black as coal (because of the coal) but today, it has been restored to its original, lovely state.  As a UNESCO site, it is more beautiful than you can ever imagine.


Pro tip: Take a tour of the tower of Bath Abbey for a fascinating background of the Abbey’s history as well as aerial views of the city! Be sure to taste a Cornish pasty (a savoury sort of closed sandwich) when in town. Also a hike up the hill to Sham Castle is well worth the walk! 


Find more off the beaten track places in England