Category Archives: Italy

Aqueduct in Spoleto, Italy

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Aqueduct in Spoletto, Italy

Not Ancient Roman, I’m afraid. Still, these massive stone pillars are impressive enough to take your breath away. Or was that the climb to the top of the hill? A hulking stone mass spanning the deep gorge, the Ponte delle Torre does indeed have its origins in the Romans as an aqueduct. But what visitors see today is the result of a medieval re-build, likely 12th-14th century. Its name comes from the pair of fortifited towers on either end. On Spoleto’s side, we have the Rocca Albornoziana, and on the other side is the Fortilizia dei Mulini. Rising an impressive 80m high and spanning 230m long, the Ponte delle Torre was once used as an aqueduct bringing fresh water into Spoleto via a canal atop it, and later functioned as a bridge. In fact, sometimes this limestone edifice is still sometimes open as a bridge – but not for the faint hearted! Climb the hill to visit the Rocca – on one side, you’ll enjoy lovely views over the city, then, walk around the castle to the other side and you’ll get jaw-dropping views of the aqueduct! History buffs can then head up and in to the Rocca to visit the museum inside.

Top tip: Head down into the town to the Roman amphitheatre – make sure you visit the ruins and the accompanying museum to learn all about Roman life in Spoleto (or Spoletum) of antiquity.

Visit Umbria

Bathhouse in Bevagna, Italy

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Bathhouse in Bevagna, Italy

Imagine that this room is filled with water. Splashes from swimmers and and chatter from the other bathers, hawkers selling their goods at the waterside… and sea monsters swimming across the pool’s bottom. Bathhouses were popular in ancient Roman times. They were the beating heart of society in many ways. A combination of a spac, cafe, a co-working facility and Facebook, bathhouses were a place to meet up, to do business, to catch up with friends and brag about new ventures. They were also a place to relax, get clean and enjoy the good life. Rome was full of hundreds of bathhouses, and most Roman towns had their own. This bathhouse in the small and otherwise unknown Umbrian town of Bevagna (Mevania in Roman times) is hidden behind a relatively banal modern(ish) facade down an inconspicuous side street that you’d really have no other reason on which to venture. It’s the definition of a hidden gem. Like most Roman bathhouses, Bevagna’s bathhouse fanned the flames of the Roman ego and its love of all things flamboyant: architecture, art, mosaics, marbles and excessive amounts of water, carried to the towns and cities thanks to its impressive system of aqueducts. Once full of water, the pool floor was decorated with a (rather terrifying) array of sea “creatures” (read: monsters!): leaping dolphins, creeping lobsters, entwined seahorses, swimming fish, and tentacled octopi (because, yes, that is an octopus there, not a spider. Despite how it looks. Perhaps the artist had never seen an octopus and was basing his design on a description of one?) One thing is for sure – though a fascinating place to visit, would you really want to swim in that pool? Not me!

Tip: You can’t just walk in here. That would be too easy for rural Italy. You have to call the tourism office ahead of time and organise a visit – and you’ll likely need at least basic Italian to do so. Not able to do that? You can walk by the bathhouse and get a good view of the pool and mosaics through the window, even if you can’t get inside. Better than nothing!

More Ancient Bathhouses

Snow in the Italian Alps

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Snow in Gran Paradiso National Park, Italian Alps

The oldest national park in Italy – established circa 1922 – rests in the lower reaches of the Italian Alps. Gran Paradiso National Park is a nature lover’s playground, and during the winter, becomes a wild winter wonderland. Ibex roam the silent forests. With around 3,000 animals, your chance of spotting one is actually quite good. Alpine villages, such as the teacup-sized fairytale hamlet of Valnontey, spring from the slopes. Rocky cliff-faces tower up on either side of the valleys, overshadowed by the daunting peaks of the Italian Alps. Paths and forest tracks wind through the pine trees, offering sunny hiking trails during summer – or a snow-capped wonder during winter. Snow shoes and cross country skies are the way to discover the serenity of Gran Paradiso once the snow starts falling. Pros can strike out on their own along the many trails, or those with less local knowledge can hire a guide to explore the backcountry of the 70,000 hectares of national park in northwestern Italy.

Tip: Best way to explore the region in winter is by snowshoes or XC skies. If both activities are new to you, snowshoes are the more accessible, and allow you to “hike” into the woodlands. XC skies will allow you to cover more distance though. Plenty of companies rent both pieces of equipment. You might want to consider the services of a guide too.

Europe By Winter

The Dolomites, Italy

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The Dolomites, Italy

Towering mountains, snow-capped peaks, steep slopes traced with trails for skis and boots, depending on the season – the mighty Dolomites are beckoning. The Alps of France and Switzerland are Europe’s most well-known summits – and for good reason. But there are other majestic mountain ranges that deserve attention too. The Dolomites in northern Italy are one such place. While in actual fact, the Dolomites are a part of the Alps, these mountains in Sud Tyrol are often considered their own entity by locals. Less visited than parts of the Alps like Chamonix or Zermatt, the Dolomites offer an ideal mountain getaway located a bit more off the beaten track. Whether you’re looking for a winter ski holiday or you visit in summer, hiking boots laced up, this corner of Italy is a perfect outdoor playground. With many peaks reaching above 2,000m and even 3,000m, the mountain range is also home to the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park, and has even been awarded UNESCO status in 2009. Views from the top of summits like Mt Kronplatz are absolutely stunning and the wider Sud Tyrol region is home to hilltop castle after castle as well as numerous snug mountain towns, a unique Austro-Italic culture, great local beer and no shortage of hearty mountain cuisine. A region that has a long and shared history between Austria and Italy – with it only becoming part of Italy after WWI – explore a place that perfectly balances natural and cultural beauty, two languages, two heritages, and a complicated history.

Tip: There are many hiking trails weaving across these slopes, including alte vie 1-10 (“high paths”). But there are other options too if you’re not up for the climb, or simply pressed for time. For example, Mt Kronplatz (2,275m) has an all-year ski lift to the summit, where there is a hilltop restaurant with some killer views. Take it round trip, or one way and return on foot.

More Northeastern Italy

Autumn in Spello, Italy

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Autumn in Spello, Italy

Off-peak seasons are actually some of the best times to travel in Europe. Combine off-peak months with lesser-travelled destinations and you just might find yourself walking the well-worn cobblestones of a medieval hilltop town of fairytale caliber – all to yourself. Spello, the city of flowers (it is home to a beloved flower festival each June), is the secret jewel of Umbria (itself a little-visited region overshadowed by its more famous cousin, Tuscany). Quiet alleyways and picture-perfect stone houses rest on a backdrop of fiery autumnal trees and the dusky purple shades Apennine Mountains. Further below, the town comes alive with a buoyant energy – shops and restaurants and marketplaces, friends meeting in the road, old women shouting to their neighbours out windows, children running across the plazas – but here, at the edges of the town, life stands still. Silence rings, and your footsteps echo down the narrow stone alleys. From within the walled gardens comes the soft sounds of silverware clinking and people laughing – evidence of daily life in small-town Italy. It is an ideal place to get away from the rush of the world and immerse yourself in Italian culture and lifestyle, and shoulder seasons like autumn and spring is a lovely time to visit as the weather is quite mild, the scenery is stunning, and the crowds are no where to be seen.

Tip: If you love red wine, truffles or olives, you’re in luck. The local red wine comes from the surrounding area of Montefalco, and there are many shops and restaurants here where you can taste the local truffles and olive oils.

Beautiful Small Italian Towns

Overlooking Spoleto Cathedral, Italy

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Overlooking Spoleto Cathedral, Italy

The mid-sized town of Spoleto in central Italy is not one to miss for anyone travelling through the region of Umbria. Bustling and busy, Spoleto feels less like an open-air museum than it does a living, breathing, habited city. But leave the “modern” section behind and head uphill, and you’ll quickly find yourself amongst the historic beauty so prevalent in Italy. Visiting the interior of the cathedral is a must of course – but to fully appreciate the size and grandeur of the building, keep heading up towards the castle for the aerial view. Spoleto Cathedral was built during the second half of the 12th century with later additions in the 15th and 16th centuries, and is lauded as a standout example of Romanesque architecture on the outside – though with a stunning Renaissance loggia. But inside is another story. Inside, there are Byzantine mosaics and medieval crypts. There are frescoes painted by Umbrian artist Pinturicchio in the 15th century, and others from the 16th century. There are giant rose windows, huge mosaics, walls full of paintings, delicate statues, and a dark, wood-panelled relics room. Inside and out, whether you’re looking up at the building from the ground or enjoying the bird’s eye view above, Spoleto Cathedral certainly stands out, even in Italy where churches are (nearly) as frequent as scoops of gelato.

Tip: Unfortunately, Spoleto Cathedral is not free. You can book tickets online or at the door. The cathedral is open every day while the Diocesan Museum is open Tuesday – Saturday.

Visit More Umbria Sites

The Roman Colosseum, Italy

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The Roman Colosseum, Italy

It is the the most iconic site in Italy. The most iconic Roman ruin. One of the most iconic images associated with travel, history and violence in the world. Welcome to the Roman Colosseum. True to its name, it is immense. It doesn’t have a pretty history, and has unfortunately has left a bad taste in many people’s mouths when it comes to Romans – calling to mind images of violence, bloodshed, and cruelty. Animals and humans alive butchered for sport. While all of that is sadly true, the Colosseum is not all that Romans have to offer. Yes they were a conquering bunch but they did amazing things too. Did you know that the recipe for Roman cement – which clearly lasts! – was only discovered in recent years? The Romans gave us things like an amazing network of roads. They brought clean water to cities from sources miles away on their tremendous aqueducts, making it possible for cities to sustain large, healthy populations. Though they conquered new lands, they let the people worship their own gods, even adopting their gods into Roman pantheon. Citizenship and advantages were granted across the Roman Empire. Though still harsh for our standards, being a Roman woman was a lot better than being a woman in any European society for the next 1,700 years or so. Terrible things happened at the Colosseum, but the building itself, built by Vespasian (and later Titus) starting in 70 BC, is an incredible feat of architecture. In fact, the Roman Colosseum was the largest ancient amphitheatre ever built, and remains the largest standing amphitheatre in the world today, once able to hold up to 80,000 spectators. In addition to the bloody gladiatorial games and executions, the Colosseum was also used for less horrible actions such as public spectacles, re-enactments of famous battles, dramas based on Roman mythology, and even occasional mock sea battles, when the Colosseum was actually flooded! The Romans were experts in engineering, architecture and technology, and they had a rich culture and livelihood that goes beyond violent gladiators and conquering territories.

Pro tip: The Colosseum will always be busy. Book ahead and arrive early, if you really want to visit. Otherwise, there are many other arenas, circuses, ampitheatres, and theatres throughout Europe. The Arena of Nimes, Lyon’s Fourviere theatre, or the great theatres of Pompeii are all alternatives, and there are a number of smaller structures like Sagunto, Spoleto, Vienne, Ulpia Traiana, and so many others found across the ancient Roman Empire.

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Foligno Riverside, Italy

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Foligno at Sunset, Italy

Umbria is the Italian region you never knew you needed. Do you like wine? Eating delicious meals? Roman ruins? Medieval architecture? Cobblestone villages? Amazing art and frescoes? Almost no crowds? Umbria is the answer to it all. Foligno is a mid-size Umbrian town that most visitors only know as a train junction. But there is so much more to this place than its railway station. It has a lovely and sizeable town centre, mostly dating to recent times, which is full of shops and restaurants – all mostly full of locals. There are a number of churches and a seemingly modest palace that hides an amazing display of frescoes – I mean, we’re talking room after room of frescos, paintings, triptychs, and more – and you just might be the only visitor. Unfortunately, that all-important rail junction meant that Foligno suffered bombings during WWII, leaving only a few of its medieval buildings intact. Luckily, this included the early 15th century Romanesque church of Saint Giacomo whose spire rises up through the centre of the town. On the northern side, the town is bordered by the narrow ribbon of water, the Fiume Topino, which has a lovely riverside path perfect for walking, running or cycling (fun fact – the Topino is mentioned by Dante in the 3rd instalment of his Divine Comedy, Paradiso). So next time you’re changing platforms at Foligno, take the time to give this bustling town a chance – or better yet, explore Foligno and its environs by bike.

Tip: On the cultural side, marvel at the frescoes and other wonders in the Palazzo Trinci museum. For an active visit, rent a bike (there are a number of places to do so in Foligno or nearby Spello) and explore the area – for example, bike from Foligno to the wine-producing town of Montefalco, taking in villages like Spello, Assisi or Bevagna en route.

Visit in Umbria:

Spoleto’s Albornoz Castle by Night, Italy

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Albornoz Castle in Spoleto at night, Italy

Come to the Italian town of Spoleto for its great medieval aqueduct, an amazing feat of engineering. Come to Spoleto for its Roman theatre and walls. Come to Spoleto for its massive fortification the Rocca Albornoz, or Albornoz Castle. Come to Spoleto for its food and wine, or for its great cathedral, stunning views, street after street of shops. This mid-sized Italian locale is the perfect size – not quite town, not quite city – full of everything you’d want in a place, and brimming with stunning sites. By day or night, Spoleto is a place of wonder. Even at the heart of winter with shorter days and chilly nights, Spoleto is an easy place to love. The powerful walls of Albornoz Castle looming overhead are often lit up at night, brightening up winter nights. Built in 1359 on Hill St. Elias and the highest point in Spoleto, Albornoz Castle has long been a presence in Spoleto. Flanked by six sturdy towers, the Rocca Albornoz has a history of resisting many sieges, and was later turned into a jail in 1800, used as such until the late 20th century. Today it houses a modest museum, home to the Courtyard of Honour, the Courtyard of Arms, the Hall of Honour and the Painted Room (Camera Pinta), as well as local art, sculptures and several lovely frescoes – ideal for a cold winter’s day.

Tip: Learn more about visiting the national museum on their website. Also, don’t miss Spoleto’s stunning Roman amphitheatre and its accompanying Roman archeology museum. (Want more indoor culture? See a list of Spoleto’s museums here).

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Baths of Caracalla, Rome, Italy

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The Baths of Caracalla, Rome, Italy

Just south of Rome‘s great collection of fora, each erected in whatever remaining space the current emperor could find, are the might Baths of Caracalla. The incredible buildings of the Baths of Caracalla were once Rome’s second-largest bathhouses (and its ruins still are the second biggest). Built between AD 212 and 217, these huge baths were in use until the 530s. Roman baths were much more than a place to get clean. Rome had over 800 bathhouses, and while most would be akin to small neighbourhood meet-ups, a few were built on impressive scales. Such buildings functioned as baths as well as a social outing, a place of business and networking, even a place for shopping and commerce. Imagine them as a mashup of Facebook, LinkedIn, a conference centre, a cafe, the public library, and a shopping mall. With separate bathing facilities for males and females as well as saunas, a massive swimming pool not to mention a library, shopping arcade and more, all free and open to the public, the Baths of Caracalla would have offered a great day’s outing for a Roman. Heated by the efficient hypocaust system used in other bathhouses (in which heated water was achieved by burning coal and wood underground to heat water provided by an aqueduct), it is estimated that this massive structure required workers to install 2,000 tonnes of building material (combination of marble, pozzolana, lime, tuff and basalt) every day for six years. In Ancient Rome, Emperors were expected to do a number of things – chiefly, conquer new territory, keep peace amongst the Roman citizens, and improve/leave their mark on Roma. Built atop an older villa, Caracalla left his mark on the Eternal City by constructing his huge bathhouse whose towering Roman ruins still amaze and impress visitors today.

Tip: Get to the Baths of Caracalla early (when they first open) or if possible book tickets in advance. Lines get very long very fast. The same can be said for those who want to visit a forum. It should be noted that visitors can see all of the forums from street level but if you wish to walk amongst them, you will need tickets and those lines are long.

Other Impressive European Baths

Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy

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Gran Paradiso National Park, Italy

Welcome to the winter wonderland otherwise known as Gran Paradiso National Park. Tucked in Italy‘s northwestern corner, this magical place is the perfect snow destination. Established in 1922, Italy’s oldest national park is celebrating its centenary anniversary this year. With 70,000 hectares of land in the Aosta Valley and the Piemonte, Gran Paradiso protects vast tracts of woodland and mountains. It also provides a protected home to something like 2800 ibex, a type of deer native to this area that once dwindled to about 400 creatures. With this many animals, your chance of spotting one of these majestic creatures is actually pretty high. Other fauna in the park include the chamois, marmot, mountain hare, foxes, badgers, martens, and even eagles. Ideal ways to visit and experience the magic of Gran Paradiso are cross country skiing and snowshoeing in winter or hiking and trekking in summer. Get the most out of your trip with a local guide or instructor!

Tip: Looking for a place to stay? The town of Cogne is a very good base, as is the more well-known town of Aosta, famed for its Roman ruins. Learn more about visiting Gran Paradiso on their website.

Visit More in Northwestern Italy:

Perugia & Saint Giuliana Church, Italy

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Perugia & Saint Giuliana Church at Sunset, Italy

It’s safe to say that the city of Perugia doesn’t get much traction from international tourists. Few visitors from abroad have even heard of the regional capital of Umbria (or Umbria for that matter!). And it’s an understandable plight – amongst so many wonders, it can be hard for any to stand out. Umbria in general merits more love and appreciation – and its local capital of Perugia is surprisingly lovely. This pocket-sized city is perfect for exploring on foot. Like all of Italy, Perugia is home to many churches – like the simple but beautiful 13/14th century Cistercian church of Saint Giuliana, seen here from the overlook point at the Rocca Paolina, in the town centre. There are also a number of museums from art to archeology to architecture, making this an easy and compact culture stop. Perugia by evening is a beautiful sight – not only are the streets glowing in soft light, but the sun setting over the surrounding hills and towns of Umbria makes for a spectacular view. 

Pro tip: Love Romans and Italian history? On your way to Saint Giuliana, hop over to Perugia’s extensive museum dedicated to history. With a big focus on the Romans, do beware that not everything is translated from Italian, so be sure to bring your dictionary and favourite translating app!

More lesser-known Italian church towers: 

Theatre of Pompey Ruins, Rome, Italy

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Ruins of the Theatre of Pompey, Rome, Italy

Ah, the Theatre of Pompey. Central Rome – the Eternal City, Italy. Founder of perhaps the greatest empire to ever span the earth. Much remains of Rome’s 2,000+ year old origins. It’s nearly impossible to walk more than a few minutes in any direction through Rome’s old town without stumbling over (yes, in some cases, actually stumbling; its ancient vestiges are everywhere) some sort of ancient Roman ruin, be it temple or column, road or wall, aqueduct or gate, bathhouse, or ordinary house. Or – the theatre. Like us today, the Romans loved the good life, and they liked to relax. They did this in a variety of ways – the circus (actually more akin to attending a football or rugby match) – the bathhouse (actually more akin to the way we socialise in coffee shop or online via facebook) – the infamous (and bloody) games that Rome is unfortunately so famous for (despite their actual rarity, compared to modern depictions) – or the theatre. The theatre was actually a lot like our theatre (and cinema), and was a social event, though this was before electrical lighting, obviously, so most performances actually took place during daylight hours. This particular Theatre of Pompey has very little that remains. It is located a little way from the centre, and on the surface, all that remains is the slightly curved street design built over the theatre. But underneath is another story. In the basement of a restaurant and nearby hotel, significant vestiges of this infamous theatre remain. Infamous, you say? It was here, in 44 BC, on the Ides of March, that Brutus et al killed Julius Caesar. Et tu, Brute? 

Pro tip: Want to see the remnants of the Theatre of Pompey? Head into Pancrazio restaurant, where you can head downstairs and see original parts of the theatre, vestiges of the tunnels that would have snaked around behind the amphitheatre. Pancrazio restaurant, far from being over touristy, is actually pretty good, and has some delicious wine. We recommend the seafood linguine. Underground sections can also be spotted in the walls of the hotel Albergo Sole al Biscione.

More of Italy: 

Cathedral di San Sabino, Bari, Italy

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Cathedral di San Sabino, Bari, Italy

This is the Cathedral of Bari, seat of a bishop since the Council of Sardica in 347 AD and seat of an archbishop since the 6th century. The beautiful structure we see here is 12th and 13th century, built on the foundations of a destroyed Byzantine church. Though today Bari may same like a somewhat small and definitely quaint city home to a labyrinth of narrow passages, it was once a mighty place. Technically styled as “Apulian Romanesque,” the arched portals, rounded windows and great rose window are all features found in most Romanesque churches. Bari has a unique and varied history, not all of it good. It was a hub for the Slavic slave trade. For 20 years, it was the centre of the Emirate of Bari; in the 1100s it was razed to the ground, it once sheltered the widowed Polish queen of a Milanese duke, and it was part of various kingdoms and empires including that of the Lombards, the Byzantines and Naples. Today it is a vibrant, lively place bubbling with a breathtaking wild and chaotic vivacity that only Italians seem to manage.

Pro tip: Stock up on basic Italian or bring a decent translator (google translate is doing some amazing things to break down language barriers) because southern Italians do not speak English, or any other language.

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Assisi Alleyways, Italy

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Assisi alleyways

The Alleyways of Assisi , Italy

Most people have heard the name Assisi, though likely without knowing where exactly it is. The small Umbrian town is made famous for its association with the famous St Francis of Assisi, founder of the Franciscan Order, and patron saint of Italy, animals and stowaways (one can just see some sort of Italian ibex stowed away on a ship praying to all three facets of St Francis!). People have been living in Assisi for a long. First settled by around 1000 BC by the Umbrian tribes, later colonised by the Romans who built the layout of Assissium (later shortened to Assisi), through the Ostrogoth raids and Lombardy control, it was the medieval era which made the largest mark on the present city. Expanding outwards from the 13th century, the city spilled beyond the ancient Roman walls (no longer standing), forming a network of tiny wee alleys zigzagging through courtyards, plazas and avenues. The Black Death had a profound effect on the city of Assisi, and it wasn’t until the Renaissance that Assisi rebounded in all its former glory. Today, it is a site of pilgrimage both for religious practicants (coming to pay homage to old St Francis) and modern-day tourists, who venture into Umbria for this little town they’ve heard of. Assisi – well okay, Umbria – is a hilly place. And most people don’t like to venture too far upwards, at least, not on the backstreets. So for anyone looking to find the true ancient beauty of this historic town, now a UNESCO site, wander the winding wee alleys and staircases – the smaller the alley, the more charm it seems to exude. And likely, you’ll leave nearly all the tourists behind on the main square.

Pro tip: Christmastime in Assisi is a magical period to visit and highly recommended (keep an eye out for the mangers, a competitive event in Umbria at Christmas)! Note that the train station is not in the old town, and is quite a walk uphill – we recommend a quick taxi. Want a lovely view? Head up to the top of the town to the old castle via the tiny backroads and trails (you can drive up the main road too, but it’s not as nice). 

More Wonders of Italy

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Assisi Cathedral, Italy

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Assisi

Assisi Cathedral of San Rufino, Assisi, Italy

The world is a crazy place and not only is no one able to travel right now, but we’re all confined to our houses and small radiuses near our homes. So, join us on a virtual tour of Europe! Here, we start at the top of the hill overlooking Assisi, one of Italy‘s most famous towns, and the stunning facade, tower and dome of the marvellous Assisi Cathedral of San Rufino. Birthplace of famous Saint Francis, patron saint of Italy, animals and – wait for it – stowaways (pray to St Francis next time you’ve not validated your train ticket!), Assisi has had people living here since 450BC – the Etruscans – though there were possibly people in the general area since 100BC! The town as we see it today was largely developed in the Middle Ages, and further developed during the Renaissance. The Cathedral of San Rufino is old – dating to the 13th century. It’s fame comes as being the place where the famous St Francis of Assisi was baptised, as well as some of his disciples such as St Clare (Santa Chiara of Assisi). Built in the Umbrian Romanesque style, you’ll see many similarities with other contemporary Italian churches, as well as some churches in parts of Spain and the Adriatic Balkans such as Croatia (a country that has a long history with Italy). Churches have stood here since the 3rd century (when Rome converted to Christianity), but this San Rufino dates to 1140 to contain the relics of 3rd century martyr, Bishop Rufinus. St Francis actually preached at this church, and it was here that Santa Chiara (Clare) first heard his message. It was here in Assisi that St Francis founded the famous Franciscan religious order in 1208, and St. Clare founded the Poor Sisters, later known as the Order of Poor Clares.

Pro tip: Follow the narrow walking route through the zigzag of tiny back alleys up to the Rocca Maggiore for this amazing view. Though the quarantine and travel bans are currently in place, we hope you’ll be travelling to Europe as soon as it’s lifted!

Great Places to Visit in Italy

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Chiesa di San Giorgio, Verona, Italy

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Verona cathedral

Church (Chiesa) di San Giorgio in Braida, Verona, Italy

As is typical of Italy, the Italian city of Verona is simply full of churches – the Chiesa di San Giorgio is just one such church. More than the others though, the Chiesa di San Giorgio’s location along the River X makes it all the more stunning, helped along by its beautiful Baroque dome. The San Giorgio in Braida Church was built in the 16th century in a medieval part of the city just along the riverbank, a stunning addition to the orange-tiled roofs and narrow alleys that make up the rest of Verona. On the opposite riverbank are the Roman ruins – there is the remains of an old amphitheatre here. Though large, it is far from the best preserved example, though still interesting to see. The city of Verona is probably best known for its Shakespearean connection – though ironically the play with the city name in the title – The Two Gentlemen of Verona – isn’t the one that will come to most minds. No, what Verona is most remembered for as home to Romeo and Juliet – and there is even a balcony that is supposedly the Juliet balcony in the Casa di Guillietta or Juliet’s house. All in all, Verona is a quiet and lovely place, a true Italian city. Not too far from Venice but with far fewer crowds, it is a welcome respite from the popularity and business of other Italian cities – without sacrificing the charm!

Pro tip: Apparently it’s good luck to touch the statue of Juliet at Casa di Guillietta, but it’s a bit of an odd tradition and no point waiting for a break in the crowds to do so. Though different, Verona can be a nice alternative to Venice (or at the very least, a nice breather after the crowds of the archipelago!). 

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Porta Palatina in Torino, Italy

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Torino gate

The Porta Palatina / Palatine Gate in Torino, Italy

A Roman-age city gate in the Northern Italian city of Torino (or Turin), the magnificent Porta Palatina makes for a grand entryway into Torino’s city centre. We’re lucky to have the gate – it very nearly got torn down in the 18th century for an “Urban renewal” project during an era when people weren’t as concerned with protecting heritage and artefacts as they are now. Today surrounded by modern building complexes (many of which are adorned with graffiti and other non-art), the Porta Palatina is no less stunning for its less-than-grand locale. In fact, the Porta Palatina is one of the best-preserved Roman gates in Europe (certainly of its time), and represents the most important archeological site of Torino, along with the nearby Roman theatre. A large city in northwestern Italy, Torino is a place made up of broad avenues, great palaces, and grand architecture common to other near-Alpine cities (Lyon, Lausanne and Grenoble spring to mind). Built in the 1st century during the Augustan Age, this immense brick gate would have once been incorporated into the city defensive wall and probably attached to a palace (where the name likely comes from), and would have been just as impressive then as now. Gates in Roman times served to protect cities from invasion or simply keep records of who (and what) is coming to and from a city. Later, it was incorporated into a medieval fortification before falling into ruin for several centuries. Italy is full of Roman ruins of various types and scales – when visiting northern Italy, don’t miss the lovely city of Torino (Julia Augusta Taurinorum in Roman times) with its ancient and modern wonders, and impressive view of the Alps!

Pro tip: Find the Porta Palatina in the modern-day Piazza Cesare Augusto. Torino is most famed for its “Shroud of Turin” which supposedly shows the visage of Jesus. Though the age disproves this, the Shroud is still a fascinating find. Visit the Museo della Sindone to find out more. Italy is also known for its cheeses – in particular, try local cheeses such as Fontina d’Aosta (cow), Asiago (cow) and Robiola (goat, cow or sheep). Pair with local red wine!

 More of Torino & Nearby

 

Brunico Cemetery, Italy

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Brunico cemetary

World War I Cemetery in Brunico Cemetery, Italy

Brunico – or Bruneck in German – is a lovely little town in a strange region. Like all of Sud Tyrol, the region was once part of the Astro-Hungarian Empire until World War I happened, and Italy, who sided with the winners, was granted the mountainous little region of Sud Tyrol from Austria, who sided with the wrong side. Even today the Germanic/Austrian culture is visible, from the bilingual populace (and menus and road signs) to the cuisine to the architecture. Rising above cheerful Brunico is the beautiful medieval Brunico Castle dating back to about the 13th century. But hidden away in the lush green wooded hills on the other side of a narrow footbridge is something unexpected – a simple World War I era cemetery filled with the graves of soldiers from all sides, backgrounds and religions. In fact, soldiers from each religion – Christian, Jewish and Muslim – are each buried according to their religious rites. Though war is always terrible for those involved in it, the war would have been especially difficult for those soldiers fighting WWI in the high, inhospitable Dolomites Mountains, a region prone to high winds, deep snows, cold temperatures, steep slopes and rough terrain. Brunico’s wooded WWI cemetery was built by Russian POWs from local pine trees, each one carefully inscribed with the dead soldier’s names and dates of death. Tucked under a quiet canopy of emerald leaves, these simple markers serve as a stark reminder of the shortness of life and the madness of war – as well as humankind’s harmony with nature.

Pro tip: Brunico’s War Cemetery is located a stone’s throw away from Brunico Castle (in reality just across the footbridge). Visiting in summer? There are some pretty lowland walks in the area. If you want to climb something a bit higher, head over to nearby stunning landscapes Mt Kronplatz or the lushness of Vedrette di Ries-Aurina Natural Park. Visiting in winter? This region also has some good skiing. 

Visit Other Places in Italy

 

Torino & the Alps, Italy

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Torino mountains

Panorama of Torino & the Italian Alps, Italy

Torino, like much of Northern Italy, falls far off the tourism map. When most of us hear the word, “Italy,” we think of rural Tuscany, fairy tale Venice, or the artsy Florence. Italy equals Mediterranean ocean views, Roman temples and gelato by the beach, right? Not necessarily. Northern Italy is like a country unto its own. Nothing at all like southern Italy, Northern Italy is Alpine and mountainous, fast-paced and serious, and in the winter it gets cold and snowy. Those who live here seem more Swiss than Italian (and those who live in the northwest Dolomites region are more Austrian than anything else!). The grand city of Torino (which you may know as “Turin”) is certainly one of Europe’s best-kept secrets. The eclectic architecture, genuinely happy (and multilingual!) people, elegant streets, mountainous backdrop, delicious cheeses as well as amazing pizzas and wines make Torino a city full of surprises. But if you really want a treat, take the time to hike up the hill, Monte dei Cappuccini on the other side of the Po River to see the whole of Torino spill out below you. On a magnificent backdrop of the towering Alps, the glittering Po River and the beautiful red roofs with white walls, the enormous spire if the Mole Antonelliana rises up to the sky, as if reaching for the heavens. Originally built as a synagogue in the late 1800’s, the building (which now houses a cinema museum) sports the highest work of masonry in all of Europe. After a day wandering the grand avenues, splendid squares and wee alleyways, take your time to drink in this aerial view of Torino – it is well worth it!

Pro tip: Whether you believe in its divinity or not, the museum about the Shroud of Turin explores a fascinating piece of history and worth the visit. Visit here for practical info.

Where to visit next? More amazing places to discover in Northern Italy.

This post was originally published in July 2014. It has since been revised and updated. 

 

Val de Susa, Italy

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Val de susa

Antica Mulattiera (Mule Track) in the Val de Susa, Italy

The antica mulattiera or ancient mule path carves its way up the mountain deep with the Val de Susa, carrying pilgrims to the Sacra di San Michele as it has done for at least a thousand years. Hidden amongst the curves one will find 15 “stations of the cross,” stone crosses each representing a different “station” – a stark reminder to the route’s pilgrims of why they are here. Cobblestones smoothed by the centuries, sharp edges worn away by thousands if not millions of pilgrim’s boots make up the rugged path that hugs Monte Pirchiriano in northern Italy. Leave behind the 21st century to follow the antica mulattiera through the Val de Susa, travelling back in time to the Middle Ages when pilgrimages were a normal part of life for every believer. In your modern homage to ancient pilgrimages, follow this quiet forest path and enter into nature as you make your own pilgrimage to the monastery at the top. Not only will you be able to approach the monastery in the traditional way and understand what life would have been like for a medieval pilgrim, but along the way you’ll be privy to amazing views, hillside villages and centuries of tradition. As you make your soul-searching pilgrimage, you’ll have time to reflect on life and destiny. By the time you reach the top, you may very well be a changed person.

Pro tip: Start your walk from behind the church of Saint-Ambrogio of Torino, a short train ride from the city of Torino. From the train station, it’s about a 3km walk each way. Visit in the winter to avoid other tourists and marvel at the snow-dusted woodlands and mountaintops. Due to slippery stones and leaves underfoot as well as some muddy patches, we recommend sturdy shoes for this walk. 

Other Snowy Alpine Destinations

This post originally appeared in early 2014. It has since been updated and revised. 

Venetian Facades, Italy

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Venetian Facades, Italy

The original canal city (though far from the only city criss-crossed with canals), Venice is often recognised as one of the most romantic cities in the world. Sometimes nicknamed the “Fish” (for its shape as seen from above), Venice’s main island is also its most busy, though it is far from the only island in the Venetian Lagoon – in fact, there are 118 islands as part of the Lagoon! Certainly one of Europe’s most beautiful creations, the entire island is like a museum where some of the most splendid examples of architecture are on permanent display. Take to the canals, the grand squares and the beautiful bridges to admire facades displaying Rococo, Baroque, Renaissance and Gothic styles – in fact, Venice has its own version of the Gothic called Venetian Gothic, characterised by its lancet windows adorned with carved ogee arches. Both the Byzantines and the Ottomans had a serious effect on the development of Venice’s unique architectural styles, and in turn, Venice had a serious effect on the rest of Europe. Then as today, Venice has been wowing visitors who travel to this marvel of a city and bring back its artistic and architectural secrets to be used in the building of other impressive places. Though Venice is one of the most visited cities on Earth, it suffers from overtourism – there are simply too many people visiting these small islands. The best way to avoid adding to this problem is to visit in the off season, exploring the lesser-visited islands, as well as visiting other lesser-visited places in the region like Brunico, Lago di Braies, Verona, the Dolomites Mountains and more to spread the tourism more evenly!

Pro tip: There’s really no getting around the crowdedness of Venice – the best we can say is visit in the off season, and try to stay on one of the less-famed islands. Carnevale di Venezia (the Carnival of Venice) is in January/February and is an exciting though popular time of year to visit. While here, get off the main squares to wander the back alleys, keeping your eyes out for little hole-in-the-wall cafes with Italian-only menus to mingle with locals who love to meet, chat and drink afternoon glasses of espresso and spritz. 

Other Romantic Cities in Europe

 

Castello Svevo, Bari, Italy

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Bari Castle - Castello Svevo

Castello Svevo of Bari, Italy

As the capitol of Apulia (a region commonly known as the “heel” of Italy’s boot), Bari is a bustling and chaotic labyrinthine city in southern Italy. The city’s fortress is the Castello Svevo, protecting Apulia’s capitol since 1132. Destroyed and rebuilt several times, the Normans, Holy Romans, Angevins, Spanish and even Polish all had their hand in Castello Svevo’s existence. Polish, you say? Indeed, due to a coup d’etat, the 16th century Sforza family of Milan was ousted from power and instead granted Bari and Apulia in the far south (where they were far from the economic powerhouses of Northern Italy and yet could still be kept an eye on). Daughter Bona Sforza was later wed to Polish King Sigismund I the Old (though after her death, the castle was returned to the King of Naples).  Castello Svevo’s imposing exterior is perhaps due to its use as a medieval prison. Today, the castle is a museum as well as the centrepiece of the Bari and its narrow, winding streets, perfectly Italian streets.

Pro tip: Bari is a port city – often used for catching ferries to Croatia (Dubrovnik), Montenegro (Bar), Albania (Durres), and even the Greek island of Corfu. Keep in mind that there are two ports and they are not right next to one another, so know where your ferry departs from! 

More great castles & monuments of Italy

 

Pragser Wildsee / Lago di Braies, Italian Dolomites

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Pragser Wildsee / Lago di Braies, Italian Dolomites

Reflections shimmer in the quiet pools of Lago di Braies’ furthest shores. This little turquoise and emerald lake is snuggled deep within the peaks and valleys of the Dolomites Mountains in the Sud Tyrol region of northern Italy. The Lago di Braies is the crown jewel of the Parco Naturale di Fanes-Sennes-Braies, a stunning nature park that covers some 63,000 acres of ruggedly beautiful mountainous landscapes deep in the Dolomites. Because of a rejigging of borders after WWI, the once Austrian region of Sud Tyrol is now Italian – though culturally and linguistically the locals have remained close to their Germanic roots. Lago di Braies, or its germanic name, the Pragser Wildsee, is one of the many pearls of this underrated region (most of the visitors to the lake and the greater region are domestic tourists). Offshoots of the Alps, the Dolomites are one of Europe’s significant mountain ranges – though the highest peak in the Dolomites (Marmolada) doesn’t even crack the top 200 hundred tallest peaks in the Alps. But it’s not all about height – Europe is full of beautiful, wild sites like the Pragser Wildsee that escape the tourist trail – you just have to know how to find them!

Pro tip: Like France’s network of GR (Grande Randonnées), the Dolomites have their own network of paths, numbered 1 – 8 and called alte vies or high paths.

Find other beautiful places in the Dolomites of Sud Tyrol:

 

Bridges in Venice, Italy

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Bridges of Venice, Italy

It’s hard to talk about the beautiful places of Europe and ignore Venice. Venice is the city beauty – and of canals. When you constantly compare other beautiful cities with Venice – Anncey is “the Venice of France” or “the Venice of Belgium” etc. – you know that the original city (Venice) must be amazing! Venice is also the definition of a fairytale place – this is the kind of place one would expect to find in a storybook! Venice has famous sights – St Mark’s Cathedral, the glass blowing on Murano, the Grand Canal. Other major canals include the Giudecca, Canneregio and Scomenzera canals.  But the best way to explore this city? By getting lost in its massive labyrinth of tiny streets and scenic canals criss-crossed with magical bridges of all shapes and sizes of course! There are over 150 canals interwoven around some hundred islands – and connected by even more bridges! Once upon a time, these canals were the city’s only ‘streets’ and all transport was done via gondola boats. While the canals remain a main artery for movement about the picturesque city, the gondolas are used only by tourists today. Overpriced and overcrowded, it’s best to skip the gondola and meander the tiny alleys and bridges, hopping on the water-buses when you need to get farther away. Keep in mind that this is one of the most popular cities in Europe as well as one of the most delicate. Venice is actually sinking, and has problems with flooding, water damage and erosion – none of which is helped by overtourism. There has been talk of establishing a quota of visitors to this special place. So instead of getting annoyed, remember that this is in order to protect this amazing city for future generations! Though Venice may be both stunningly amazing and breath-takingly unique, there are many other cities with canals to visit in Europe. See below for a few!

Pro tip: If you can, stay on one of the lesser-known and quieter islands and take the water bus into the main part of the city. However, if you really want to stay on the “fish,” don’t go to the centre of town. Instead, check out the far quieter region of Canneregio (in the northern part of the main archipelago). The same goes for food; avoid the big restaurants with the English menus in the centre, and instead find the mom & pop shops in the back alleyways! Definitely have an afternoon spritz after a fun day of exploring! 

Other cities with canals to visit – Alternatives to Venice: