Aqueduct in Spoleto, Italy

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Aqueduct in Spoletto, Italy

Not Ancient Roman, I’m afraid. Still, these massive stone pillars are impressive enough to take your breath away. Or was that the climb to the top of the hill? A hulking stone mass spanning the deep gorge, the Ponte delle Torre does indeed have its origins in the Romans as an aqueduct. But what visitors see today is the result of a medieval re-build, likely 12th-14th century. Its name comes from the pair of fortifited towers on either end. On Spoleto’s side, we have the Rocca Albornoziana, and on the other side is the Fortilizia dei Mulini. Rising an impressive 80m high and spanning 230m long, the Ponte delle Torre was once used as an aqueduct bringing fresh water into Spoleto via a canal atop it, and later functioned as a bridge. In fact, sometimes this limestone edifice is still sometimes open as a bridge – but not for the faint hearted! Climb the hill to visit the Rocca – on one side, you’ll enjoy lovely views over the city, then, walk around the castle to the other side and you’ll get jaw-dropping views of the aqueduct! History buffs can then head up and in to the Rocca to visit the museum inside.

Top tip: Head down into the town to the Roman amphitheatre – make sure you visit the ruins and the accompanying museum to learn all about Roman life in Spoleto (or Spoletum) of antiquity.

Visit Umbria

Ballindoon Abbey in the Snow, Ireland

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Ballindoon Abbey in the Snow, Ireland

Winter’s sunrise on a crisp, snowy morning. The crunch of frosted snow underfoot, the tiny green sprouts pushing through the centimetre of spring snow, confused and searching for sun, like the rest of the island. There’s little more beautiful in Ireland than a stunning winter’s day, and though it can be a little chilly, temperatures rarely drop below 0º Celsius (that’s 32º Fahrenheit). Ballindoon Abbey (or priory) is a magical little ruin in Co Sligo, on the quiet shores of Lough Arrow, a place once renowned for fishing, and now largely left to its own devices. Like most abbeys in Ireland, this edifice pre-dates the 16th-century Cromwellian invasion, though only by 100 or so years (work commenced 1507, Cromwell showed up en masse with his army of butchers in 1649, leaving a trail of destruction everywhere he went). Today, like most similar spots, Ballindoon’s graveyard and abbey are the perfect place for tranquility, inward reflection, and remembrance. In Irish, ‘bally‘ means ‘town’ and ‘dun or doon’ means ‘stone fort’ – referring to the McDonagh’s towerhouse that used to stand in a neighbouring field. It’s all but gone now, like so much Irish heritage. But the abbey? Ivy covered, lonely, and forgotten, she stands proud on a backdrop of pastoral lakeside charm, the picture of an 18th century Romantic scene, elegant in her slow but beautiful decay.

Top tip: Hungry? Check out McDermott’s Pub just down the road, a piece of living heritage in a region of charm and modernity.

Fall in Love with South Sligo

Visit all of the above within a 15-km range.

Arch in Montpellier, France

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Porte du Peyrou Arch in Montpellier, France

Based on the triumphal arch of St Denis in Paris, the Porte de Peyrou is a 17th century triumphal arch in the southern French city of Montpellier. So what is a triumphal arch? One of the most famous and prevalent architectural styles to result from ancient Rome, these freestanding decorative arches – often spanning a road or footpath – are built to impress, celebrate and awe, as well as strike fear in the beholder. There are hundreds throughout Europe, each depicting different scenes and carvings. The Porte de Peyrou dates to 1693 with later panels added in 1715, highlighting four scenes from King Louis XIV’s life. In some, Louis is dressed as an ancient hero, in others, he is shown effecting his successes: digging the Canal du Midi, revoking the Edict of Nantes (not great if you were a Huguenot!), winning battles and capturing cities. Despite the rather grim nature of the arch by today’s standards, there’s no doubt that it – and the city in which it resides – is beautiful. Montpellier is a lovely city in southern France a few kilometeres from the Mediterranean Sea. About halfway between Marseille and Narbonne, Montpellier’s slight distance from the sea makes it marginally less popular with tourists. Grand on a compact scale, the centre is full of light-coloured stone, cobbled streets, leafy green spaces, vibrant flowers, and neoclassical architecture. No matter whether skies are sunny and blue or moody and rain-splattered, Montpellier is a cheerful French city that manages to feel elegant at the same time as accessible.

Top tip: Ever considered kite surfing? There are plenty of spots not far from Montpellier to give it a go. Continuing with the water sport theme, why not go canoeing on the Gardon River under the impressive Roman site, the Pont du Gard.

Love Southern France:

Statues in Dinan Church, France

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Statues in Dinan Church, France

Dinan is quaint. There’s no other word for it. It’s a fairytale, albeit a beloved and therefore popular one. One of the town’s most significant historical monuments is the Church (or Eglise) of St Malo. Not to be confused with the nearby town of St Malo (named for a Welsh monk with ties to Brittany), the Church of St Malo in Dinan is a gorgeous, peaceful place. The current church has its origins in the 15th century, though as always with such places, its foundations stretch back centuries, likely to the 12th century at least. With interruptions due to the War of Religion, the French revolution, and other conflicts, works started and stopped many times, leaving many quirks. This includes stained-glass windows, stone friezes and, most interestingly, carved stone gargoyles guarding three chapels. Technically, these creatures are not gargoyles; after all, gargoyles serve a specific purpose – running rainwater off walls. But what they lack in technical purpose, they make up in their devilish appearances, sporting grimaces, pointy ears, and horns and wings. The effect is chilling, and completely at odds with the outward charm of Dinan.

Top tip:

Don’t leave Brittany without trying both the fresh mussels (moules frites) or the crisp hard cider!

Dinan, Gargoyles and More

Inspire Rupea Castle, Romania

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Inside Rupea Castle, Romania

Like the icing on a layered cake, Rupea Castle tops the hill, commanding a stunning position meant to be seen from miles around. Like a fairytale castle, it beckons visitors closer, urging one to pass its gates and move through its levels. At the top of the hill, you’ll find a clutch of angular stone buildings. With a narrow ground-floor workshop and a small living space upstairs, these tiny houses offer a glimpse into how those under Rupea’s protection once lived. Below, garrisons and military quarters rose up built into the castle’s lower levels to protect it against its enemies. Like nearly all castles, Rupea Castle was built in many stages, with the most recent sections – home to said military garrisons – erected in the 18th century. The site is a good one – hence why its been inhabited since Paleolithic and Neolithic times – but the earliest record of Rupea Castle is from 1324. Some form of Rupea must pre-date that though, as the record in question describes how the Saxon revolutionaries took refuge inside the fortress. As with today, where it is located on the road from Brasov to Sighisoara, Rupea has long been an important point along roads and trade routes. Before it became a beautiful ruin beloved by road-tripping tourists, Rupea was a strategic point along routes through Moldova, Transylvania, Wallachia (all ancient kingdoms within modern-day Romania) and further afield into Hungry and the Ottoman Empire. The fortress was left for ruin in 1790, forgotten about for 200 years, then renovated in the 2010s, becoming a little-known but well-loved historical gem.

Top tip: Spring is a lovely time to visit Romania. Warm but not too hot, lovely but not too busy, full of wildflowers, blue skies and spring dishes.

Visit in Romania

Snowy Aviemore, Scotland

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Aviemore in the Snow, Scotland

If you were to transport a Colorado snow town into Scotland, Aviemore is what you’d get. The Cairngorms might not be the Alps in immensity, but Scotland’s preeminent mountain range is still mighty and impressive, acting as a hub for all things outdoors. It is dual season as well, with fair-weather visitors donning hiking boots while snow-lovers wait anxiously for the flakes to fall before making a beeline for snow boots, skis and Aviemore. If you love to ski and want to stay in the UK, Aviemore and the Cairngorms are the place to go. Downtown, you’ll find shops catering to every element of the Scottish outdoors. Set on a backdrop of snow-capped peaks, the Cairngorms offer hiking, skiing, snow-shoeing, snowboarding, cycling, mountain biking, wild swimming, yoga, paddling, and everything in between. Aviemore is an excellent hub for outdoor lovers. More than just a place to eat and sleep, you’ll spend time with like-minded people, learn about Scottish culture, and, for a short time at least, become part of the adventure-happy community of Aviemore and the Cairngorms.

Top tip: Want the cosy Scottish B&B experience complete with roaring fire, cheery hosts, hearty local breakfast and endless reading material? There are many B&Bs in town, but we love and recommend checking out Ravenscrieg B&B in the centre of town.

Visit Nearby:

Rainbows over Derry, Northern Ireland

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Derry, Northern Ireland

Ah, Derry (or Londonderry, depending on you persuasion). Have you watched Derry Girls already? If not, stop reading, start watching, and come back when you’ve binged at least a few episodes. The TV show offers a surprisingly positive, if gritty, view of life in Northern Ireland during the 90s. Things have changed a lot since then and these days, Derry is a bustling and lively place with a rich culture and a haunted past. If the popularity of Derry Girls teaches us anything, it’s that Derry doesn’t hide from the past here, but rather embraces it as it looks towards the future. Explore this beautiful walled city, walk its cobblestones and clutch cups of coffee and steaming pots of tea in the many cafes to warm up after your walk along the walls. In the evening, Derry’s many pubs await for a pint or a hot whiskey. Bushmills Distillery isn’t far away – what better place to taste its whiskies? Though not a big city, Derry is packs a bundle, and you should schedule at least a day (and night!) to fully explore and embrace this hidden gem. A guided city walk is an excellent introduction to Derry’s complex culture and history, and will offer the necessary perspective to enjoy your visit.

Top tip: Visit in October for the Halloween festival. Also, it’s a beautiful time to see Derry, with the leaves changing colours and quilting the cobblestones. Autumn is prime rainbow season, so chances are you’ll be lucky enough to spot one during your visit!

Visit Nearby:

Glenelg Brochs, Scotland

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Glenelg Brochs, Scotland

What is a broch? No, it’s not a type of jewellery. A broch is actually a uniquely-Scottish type of prehistoric architecture. A concentric, double-walled roundtower built for fortification against invasion. Though found in hundreds of carbon copies across Scotland, brochs did not make it beyond Scottish borders. Two of these fascinating structures – complete with narrow, hidden staircases tucked in the hollow spaces between walls and secreted underground passages and chambers – rise from the misty woods of Glen Beag. Located within a stone’s throw of the beloved and iconic Isle of Skye, Glenelg’s two brochs are fantastically Iron Age. Easily accessible from the road through through a cheery green field framed by stone fences, Dun Telve, as this broch is known, is among the tallest remaining stone brochs. Dating 2,300-1,900 years old, it is relatively intact for its age and delicate design. What’s interesting is its closeness to a second broch, Dun Troddan. As fortified structures, brochs were usually solitary beings. Possibly one broch was erected to replace the other, or did the families of each broch live there at the same time? Add that to the list of unexplained historical mysteries…

Top tip: Visit at sunrise or sunset to feel the might of the brochs’ Iron Age mystique.

Read More Ancient Scotland

Coast to Coast Trail in Yorkshire, England

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The Coast to Coast Trail in Yorkshire, England

Stretching from St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay, the 300 km-long (190 miles) Coast to Coast trail is an iconic way to experience Northern England. Traversing counties such as Northumberland, Yorkshire, and Cumbria, you’ll hike through everything from heather-covered hills to the heights of the Lake District. For the most quintessential English countryside, hike through the landscapes of Yorkshire. Quaint stone barns dot the fields, surrounded by the shapes of fluffy sheep. Rolling hills, eerie bogs, patchwork fields and of course numerous postcard-perfect stone villages abound. Hike the entire way or choose to hike the Coast to Coast in sections. This section, from Muker to Keld along the River Swale through the devastatingly beautiful Swaledale, is a perfect bite-sized section for visitors hoping to hike a short section. It’s also along the Pennine Way, another notable long distance trail that winds through the Pennine Mountains, offering plenty of hiking options!

Tip: Stop for tea and scones in the wee village of Muker for refuelling after your hike.

Visit Northern England

Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa, Romania

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Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetusa – Roman Town, Romania

Deep in the belly of the wonderful beast that is Transylvania, stumble over the ruins of the once-thriving Roman town of Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetuza. If you’ve not brushed up on your Romanian history, the area that we now call Transylvania – as well as other parts of Romania – were once populated by the Dacian people. Part of a Roman emperor’s legacy was to conquer – and so, after a few skirmishes, in 101 AD, Emperor Trajan marched into Dacia and overthrew the Dacian king, Decebalus. (The conquest is commemorated by the victors on the now-famous Trajan’s Column in Rome). Once the Romans had installed themselves in Dacia, they did what they loved almost as much as conquering: they started to build. Roman towns, forts and outposts sprang up all over what was once Dacia. Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetuza was the capital and the largest city of Roman Dacia. Named for the pre-Roman Dacian capital some 40-50 km away, Ulpia Traiana Sarmizegetuza was established quickly, becoming home to about 20,000 people, many of which were veterans of the war. Sarmizegetuza remained the political and religious epicentre of Roman Dacia for the next two centuries until its destruction by the Goths. Set in a beautiful location under the silhouette of the Retezat Mountains and hugged by lush green fields and meadows of vibrant wildflowers, it’s hard not to fall under the ruined city’s spell. Though largely razed, visitors can walk unimpeded through the ancient streets and houses, imagining what life was once like on Rome’s eastern frontiers. Stand in the centre of the oval ampitheatre, peek your head into the remains of the vaulted cellars, gaze upon the column bases, try your had at reading the Latin still carved on blocks of stone, wander the remnants of the forum, and reflect on life and death in the foundations of the old temple. There’s a museum there too, but even if you don’t get a chance to visit it, you’ll still get your dose of all things Roman simply by breathing the air, wandering the alleys and touching the stones carved 2,000 years ago.

Tip: If you’re arriving via the town of Hatag, keep an eye out for the extravagant Roma gypsy mansions. You haven’t seen anything like them!

More Romans

Inside Ballindoon Abbey, Ireland

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Inside Ballindoon Abbey, Ireland

Romantically ruined, the lakeside Ballindoon Abbey is the picture of gothic. You’d be forgiven for expecting to spot a ghost or fairy or some other spirit haunting its walls. One of the last abbeys built in Ireland (commissioned 1507) before Oliver Cromwell arrived on Irish shores and began ransacking and burning Catholic abbeys, Ballindoon Abbey is just one of Ireland’s many ruins. So what makes this one special? Forgotten far away in the often overlooked northwest corner of Ireland, in a forgotten corner of south Sligo, its very anonymity and overlooked status makes it that much more magical. As with many abbeys and monasteries, there is a large bell tower at the centre of the building. What’s unusual is that… it’s just possible to reach it. That is, with a bit of guile and a head of heights. The second floor is accessed by a crumbling stone “stairway” (if one can call it that) on the outer wall – jagged teeth protruding from the ancient stone wall. Above, you’ll find a magical fairytale room seemingly drawn straight from the pages of Narnia or Lord of the Rings. Cloaked in emerald moss, carpeted with soft grass, curtained in tendrils of ivy blowing in the breeze, it is Mother Nature herself who has taken over the decoration of this hidden room. Gaze down at the abbey and graveyard below, or out to the wooded edges of Lough Arrow, a place once a hotspot for fishing and now just one of Ireland’s many tranquil lakes. Ballindoon is a place of peace and reflection, a place to go to get away from the rush of the modern world and watch as Mother Nature slowly reclaims what is hers. (Alternatively, view the upper floors via drone photography, as the steps are very much not up to code and dangerous to navigate).

Tip: In the mood for a hike? Head to the now-closed Cromlech Lodge just above Ballindoon Abbey where you can park at the lay-by, and hike one of the most spectacular portions of the Sligo Way from Labby Rock across the Moytirra Ridge to Moytirra East Tomb. Circle back via the main road, making an 8-10km loop.

Visit More Historic Sites in Ireland

Basque Country, Spain

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Basque Country, Spain

Such an unusual place, Basque Country. Straddling two countries – Spain and France – with a language and a culture apart from the rest of the Europe, Basque Country (also called País Vasco, pays basque or Euskal Herria in the Basque language) is one of the most unique and otherworldly places on this ancient continent. It’s not a big place – just over 20,900 km2 (about 8,000 sq mi) it has a population of three million, and contains a few famous cities like Bilbao, Pamplona, San Sebastian, Bayonne and Biarritz. As with Irish Gaelic in Ireland or Welsh in Wales, historically the oppressive national governments tried hard to eradicate the local culture, language and identity. It was successful, too, for awhile. But like Ireland and Wales, Basque has seen a resurgence of its own language and culture, likely owing – at least somewhat – to its partial cultural and political autonomy. Unrelated to other European languages and reputed to be among the most complex, Basque is now recognised as an official language alongside Spanish, and is spoken in some governmental, educational and daily settings. That said, out of the 3 million residents, only 650,000 speak Basque (the majority live in Spain; just 100,000 live over the border in France). With its coastline forming a UNESCO geopark, Basque Country has more to offer than a storied past and a complicated language. Miles upon miles of rugged coastline carved by the ravaging Atlantic, the Basque coast is gauged, grazed and torn, home to rough cliffs, stratified layers and hidden coves. According to UNESCO, the Basque Coast comprises sedimentary rocks from the upper Triassic Period (215 million years old) to the Middle Eocene Epoch (45 million years old), marking an impressive continuous record of 60 million years of geological history, including a layer marked by last cataclysmic event – the one that famously killed the dinosaurs. One hasto admit, it’s a pretty cool place.

Tip: If you’re visiting Spain’s Basque Country, don’t miss the extraordinary monastery of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Take the bus to the coastal town of Bakio and walk the the rest of the way (about 8km round trip) for incredible coastal views.

Explore Coastal Spain

Bathhouse in Bevagna, Italy

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Bathhouse in Bevagna, Italy

Imagine that this room is filled with water. Splashes from swimmers and and chatter from the other bathers, hawkers selling their goods at the waterside… and sea monsters swimming across the pool’s bottom. Bathhouses were popular in ancient Roman times. They were the beating heart of society in many ways. A combination of a spac, cafe, a co-working facility and Facebook, bathhouses were a place to meet up, to do business, to catch up with friends and brag about new ventures. They were also a place to relax, get clean and enjoy the good life. Rome was full of hundreds of bathhouses, and most Roman towns had their own. This bathhouse in the small and otherwise unknown Umbrian town of Bevagna (Mevania in Roman times) is hidden behind a relatively banal modern(ish) facade down an inconspicuous side street that you’d really have no other reason on which to venture. It’s the definition of a hidden gem. Like most Roman bathhouses, Bevagna’s bathhouse fanned the flames of the Roman ego and its love of all things flamboyant: architecture, art, mosaics, marbles and excessive amounts of water, carried to the towns and cities thanks to its impressive system of aqueducts. Once full of water, the pool floor was decorated with a (rather terrifying) array of sea “creatures” (read: monsters!): leaping dolphins, creeping lobsters, entwined seahorses, swimming fish, and tentacled octopi (because, yes, that is an octopus there, not a spider. Despite how it looks. Perhaps the artist had never seen an octopus and was basing his design on a description of one?) One thing is for sure – though a fascinating place to visit, would you really want to swim in that pool? Not me!

Tip: You can’t just walk in here. That would be too easy for rural Italy. You have to call the tourism office ahead of time and organise a visit – and you’ll likely need at least basic Italian to do so. Not able to do that? You can walk by the bathhouse and get a good view of the pool and mosaics through the window, even if you can’t get inside. Better than nothing!

More Ancient Bathhouses

Giant’s Causeway, Northern Ireland

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The Giant’s Causeway, Northern Ireland

Jutting out into the swirling sea, this impressive and bizarre geological formation is certainly one of Ireland’s weirdest places. 40,000 interlocking basalt columns jostle for place as they rise from the sea floor off the coast of Co. Antrim in Northern Ireland. Was it made from volcanic forces? Or was it made by giants? Science states that as a result of volcanic activity 50-60 million years ago, the basalt magma fractured between 840-890C, making the rock cool and contract, resulting in a regular array of polygonal prisms or columns. On the other hand, the mythical story goes that Finn McCool, the Irish giant, was engaged in a shouting match with Bennadonner, the Scottish giant, on the other side. Grumpy Finn decides to teach Bennadonner a lesson – he’d best him in a proper fight, and wouldn’t that show him! So he builds the Causeway… all the way to Fingal’s Cave in Scotland. But when he arrives, he realises his error: the Scottish brute is massive. Far bigger than Finn. So Finn retreats in fear, babbling the tale to his wife. Unfortunately for Finn, Bennadonner finds the Causeway and follows him across, angry and looking for a fight. Finn’s quick-thinking wife disguises him as her baby. When Bennadonner arrives, he demands to know where Finn McCool his. His wife, carefully tending her massive “baby,” says he’s out but will be back soon. When Bennadonner sees the size of Finn’s massive infant, he thinks to himself, ‘if that’s the size of his child, imagine the size of the father! He must be much bigger than me!’ In terror, he runs back across the Causeway, tearing up chunks and tossing them behind him. Leaving two ends of the causeway intact, but missing the middle section… And that’s the Irish folklore story of how the Giant’s Causeway was formed. Visit it yourself to decide for yourself!

Tip: Walk from Dunseverick Castle along the coast to the Giant’s Causeway. It’s the best way to visit this very cool but popular site. You’ll have most of the walk to yourself, and it’s fantastic to watch the coastline get more and more wild as you approach the Giant’s Causeway. From this approach, you’ll get and epic bird’s eye view of the Causeway before you descend the cliffside stairs to walk on the stones themselves. Walking isn’t for you? For those visiting from the car park, a shuttle service is available, making the stones accessible to all.

More Northern Irish Sites to Visit

Inside Chateau Chenonceau, France

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Inside Chateau de Chenonceau, France

If you like castles, you’ve heard of the Loire Valley. Even if you aren’t a castle enthusiast, you’ve probably heard of this glamorous region of France. This is the part of France where the rich came to escape Paris, where they came to relax (in their feathered beds), put the feet up (on their marble tables), enjoy pastimes like hunting and horse-riding (on their vast private estates), tuck into some delicious local food (fine dining only, of course), and party (with the best champagne). The richest royals and nobles of France once flocked to the Loire Valley in a 1% competition to see who could build the flashiest, fanciest, most disgustingly extravagant chateaus. One of the most famous of these ridiculous castle-chateaus is the Chateau de Chenonceau. Distinctive for being built on both sides of the river, the castle spans the breadth of the River Cher. Defined by a succession of strong and powerful women (Diane de Poitiers, Catherine Briçonnet, and Catherine de Medici, as well as Louise Dupin – first woman to draft a Code of Women’s Rights), Chenonceau exists in its present state because of their protection, restoration and loving care. The long section that spans the Cher, an offshoot waterway of the Loire River, is the Long Hall, pictured. Arresting, dramatic, symmetrical, this hall dwarfs visitors, immediately reminding one of the castle’s incredible might. It’s not all extravagance though – diligent nurses led by Simone Menier treated over 2,200 soldiers during WWI within the walls of Chenonceau, where the long halls (this one and the second level) housed 120 beds.

Tip: Learn more about visiting the castle here. Make sure you leave plenty of time to visit the gardens! No car? Take the train – there is a station within a 5 minute walking distance of the chateau. Chenonceau is very close to Amboise, another of the most famous Loire Valley chateaus.

Loire Valley Castles:

Woods in Leitrim, Ireland

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Woods in Leitrim, Ireland

Twisted and gnarled, the damp, temperate climate of Ireland lends itself to green. Every shade and tint of green. Moss clings to the wind-worn trees. Soft ferns uncurl themselves from the thick carpet of dead leaves and bracken. Braids of ivy intertwine the tree trunks, blowing quietly in the wind like wisps of hair. Even as the seasons turn, the hardiest of leaves cling to the branches. And from the forest floor, the next generation of woodlands push through the ground searching for sky, jostling for space amongst Ireland‘s busy forest floor, crowded with mushrooms, ferns, bushes, flowers and animal burrows. The small and remote County Leitrim on Ireland’s west coast is not on most people’s Irish tourist itineraries. Very few visitors could point it out on a map or say anything about this little county; in fact, plenty of Irish from the east coast might be hard-pressed to tell you anything about Leitrim other than “rural farmland.” But if you’re looking for total peace, a place where the modern world is at a standstill, where there are more sheep and cows than people, more barns than houses, more cow-tracks than roads, you’re essentially looking for Leitrim. Green pastures and green forests, green hills and green fields – it’s hard to find a prettier and quieter place to escape from the world for a few days than rural Leitrim in Ireland’s northwest.

Tip: Some amazing Leitrim spots to check out include Glencar lake and waterfall, the nearby Devil’s Chimney waterfall and forest paths, the cute villages of Dromahair and Mohill, the lakeside Parkes Castle and Drumshambo gin distillery.

Seasonal Forests – Further Reading:

The Black Church of Brasov, Romania

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The Black Church of Brasov, Romania

In Romanian, Biserica Neagră, the Black Church of Brasov is famous in the region. Dark, gothic, and deliciously photogenic, the Black Church is one of the most popular stops for visitors to the town the tries to lay claim to Dracula. (Which the really have no business doing. It’s not Vlad Tepes’ birthplace – that’s Sighisoara; it’s not the castle from which the bloody tyrant ruled – that’s Poenari Castle, deep in the mountains; and it’s not the country in which the famous story was conceived, researched and written – that’s Ireland. All it’s got is good marketing and a tenuous connection via the castle that amazingly fools a lot of visitors). Back to Brasov. What it does have is colourful streets, dozens of pubs, pretty good nightlife, a hilltop viewpoint reached either on foot or by cable car, and of course, dramatic architecture like this gothic pile of black stone. Constructed by the Saxons in the 14th century, the name the “black church” didn’t come about until the 19th century. Despite a popular ruin that its colouration was due to soot from a medieval fire, the real reason is at once sadder and more banal – the dark pigment is a simple case of industrial pollution. Like many other cities, the industrial revolution brought jobs and prosperity to otherwise struggling places – but it alsp brought increased pollution, health concerns and lasting environmental effects. Completed in 1476, this late-stage Gothic church, the Black Church started life as a Catholic institution but swung the other way to become a Lutheran (Protestant) place of worship during the 16th century Protestant Reformation. Today, it’s a popular tourist spot – and this terrace overlooking the church offers one of Brasov’s iconic views (perhaps beat only by the faux-Hollywood sign affixed to the hilltop overlooking the town).

Tip: Enjoy this iconic view from a forested urban trail just above the Black Church to the west. There is a popular viewing platform perfect for getting that Instagram-worthy shot.

Stunning European Churches

The Quiraing, Isle of Skye, Scotland

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The Quiraing, Isle of Skye, Scotland

In a country crowded with islands, the stunning Isle of Skye is surely Scotland’s most iconic island. Skye’s rocky skyline’s most distinctive geological formation is the Quiraing, a steep and barren landslip seemingly scraping the heavens. Part of the Trotternish Ridge, it is among Skye’s most popular hiking spots, and it’s not hard to see why. With an elevation of 543m (about 1,700 feet), the path skirts the middle, ducking and weaving amongst the towering stone pillars and columns. Many pillars have names – the Needle, the Table, the Prison, among others. Scotland is a place to stop and appreciate the grandeur of nature’s beauty and everything nature is capable of creating, particularly when faced with such eye-catching scultures like the Quiraing. Skye is a place to breathe fresh air, feel the squelch of mud underfoot, hear the woosh of birds in the air, smell the salt spray tinged air, drink in some of the most dramatic panoramas you’ll ever encounter. In short, Skye – and the Quiraing – are an outdoor lover’s paradise.

Tip: The Quiraing hike takes 2-3 hours, and is about 7 km. The trailhead starts from a small car park on the Quiraing Rd at the top of the Trotternish Peninsula. See more about the hike here.

Hiking in Scotland

Snow in the Italian Alps

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Snow in Gran Paradiso National Park, Italian Alps

The oldest national park in Italy – established circa 1922 – rests in the lower reaches of the Italian Alps. Gran Paradiso National Park is a nature lover’s playground, and during the winter, becomes a wild winter wonderland. Ibex roam the silent forests. With around 3,000 animals, your chance of spotting one is actually quite good. Alpine villages, such as the teacup-sized fairytale hamlet of Valnontey, spring from the slopes. Rocky cliff-faces tower up on either side of the valleys, overshadowed by the daunting peaks of the Italian Alps. Paths and forest tracks wind through the pine trees, offering sunny hiking trails during summer – or a snow-capped wonder during winter. Snow shoes and cross country skies are the way to discover the serenity of Gran Paradiso once the snow starts falling. Pros can strike out on their own along the many trails, or those with less local knowledge can hire a guide to explore the backcountry of the 70,000 hectares of national park in northwestern Italy.

Tip: Best way to explore the region in winter is by snowshoes or XC skies. If both activities are new to you, snowshoes are the more accessible, and allow you to “hike” into the woodlands. XC skies will allow you to cover more distance though. Plenty of companies rent both pieces of equipment. You might want to consider the services of a guide too.

Europe By Winter

Ghent by the Canals, Belgium

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Ghent by the Canals, Belgium

It is easy to overlook Belgium as a travel destination. And within this small country, it’s even easier to overlook the city of Ghent in favour of its more popular cousin, Bruges. And Bruges is undoubtably beautiful. One of the prettiest cities in Europe. But Ghent? Ghent is cooler. Bisected by canals (similar to Bruges and also Amsterdam in neighbouring Netherlands), each flanked by quaintly historic facades, Ghent evokes a fairytale setting. Canals are draped in weeping willows, and ripples glisten on the water, left by the swans and other birds who make their home by the side of the canal. Despite looking inland on the map, Ghent is actually a port city, connected to the sea by the 31-km-long Ghent-Terneuzen Canal, dug in 1824, when Belgium and the Netherlands were still a unified city (Belgium broke away in 1830). Such a technological advancement facilitated an important merchant and shipping past in Ghent, with a particular focus on textiles, though the Belgian Revolution and WWII equalled a decline in trade that has only more recently experienced a comeback. Today, Ghent’s canals, crossed with romantic bridges and lined with picture-perfect Hanseatic facades, are lovely places for a romantic stroll. Coupled with its fairytale charm, this city, with its quirks and hipster vibes, is simply a cool place to be.

Tip: Ghent is a short, easy and affordable day trip from either Bruges or Brussels. Don’t miss it! What else not to miss? Tasting Belgian waffles and Belgian frites, delicious twice-cooked fries. Both are easily available from street vendors or in shops and cafes.

Stunning Waterfront Facades

Sunset at the Serpentine, London

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Sunset at the Serpentine, London, England

London is one of the best-known cities in England and the world. But somehow, no matter how many times one visits this epic metropolis, it seems there is always more to encounter. Though a massive city, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens at the heart of London offer a welcome nature respite to the hubbub of downtown streets. Sweeping alleys lined with trees, expansive grassy knolls and flower-carpeted corners adorned with statues make Hyde Park & Kensington Gardens the perfect place for a walk, jog, or bike ride. A focal point of both parks is the Serpentine, a curved artificial lake created in 1730 and bridging the two iconic parks. Once a central part of the Great Exhibition of 1851 – the incredible feat of artistry and engineering, the Crystal Palace (which is sadly no more) was erected nearby – the Serpentine more recently was integrated into the 2012 London Olympics where swimming events took place in the lake! In fact, there is a 100-metre-long lido (public open-air bathing area) sectioned off to the south for urban bathers. Whether you’re sipping coffee at the lakeside, paddling the waters in rented boats, swimming the lake’s placid shores or simply feeding the ducks and enjoying the classic view, the Serpentine lake is a perfect place to escape from the bustle of London. Visit at sunset for a particularly lovely experience.

Tip: Enjoy boating on the lake or perhaps rent bikes to pedal around the park. Want to head indoors? Both the Natural History Museum and Victoria & Albert Museum are nearby – and free. Need a sugar rush? Head to the Franco-Armenian Jakobs bakery on Gloucester Road to taste a number of delectable treats garnishing their windows, just a short walk from the park entrance.

Love London

Above Turaida Castle, Latvia

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Above Turaida Castle, Latvia

The Livonian Turaida Castle is a miracle in red brick. Rising through the dense forest above the beautiful Gauja River Valley, Turaida is surely one of the gems of Latvia – in fact, one of the gems of the entire Baltics. Built in 1214, the Livonion Order was just a few decades off from becoming part of the Teutonic Order. (Livonians were a Baltic-Finnish people related to modern Estonians whose last native speaker died in 2013.) Red brick castles are a staple of Baltic military forces, who somehow managed to make these defensive structures a thing of beauty. The tower from which one is standing is a 14th century addition, with further modifications added in the 15th century, though from the 1700s, the castle fell into ruin. Luckily, ruins became all the rage – considered Romantic (with a capital R). The legend of the Rose of Turaida – a tragic story of love, death, faith and sacrifice – associated with the castle only added to Turaida’s edgy Romanticism. In the 1970s, the Latvians excavated the area and renovated the castle, reverting Turaida to her former glory, and making it possible to explore the castle, visit the museum, walk the walls, and of course climb the towers. And what a view it is!

Tip: Enjoy a bird’s eye view from the main round tower in the centre of the castle. Enjoy a bird’s eye view of the Gauja River Valley and castle from the cheerful yellow cable cars that regularly traverse the gorge. Hiking to the castle along the Gauja River Valley via Krimulda is highly recommended.

Other Brick Castles

Castle of Vitré, France

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Castle of Vitré, Brittany, France

A mix of Celtic and French, with a little bit of Roman and Norman thrown in for fun, Brittany, or as it’s known locally, Bretagne, is the westernmost region of France. It is the arm that juts out from the European continent into the swirling Atlantic. It very much embodies its two main roots, with French and Celtic elements mixed together. The Château de Vitré falls squarely within the French heritage (while les Roche-aux-Fées – situated just 30 km away – is very much within the Celtic heritage of Brittany). It is an impressive heap of medieval stone. Rounded turrets rise from the town centre, thick stone walls protect an inner courtyard, a deep dry moat encircles the walls, a narrow bridge connects the castle to town. It is built to intimidate and defend. It wasn’t always this stunningly beautiful and daunting stone pile though. The earliest castle on the spot – erected around 1,000 – was made of wood, with an early stone castle following at the end of the 11th century. The present structure really goes back to the early 1200s, taking its triangular form by following the geology below the castle’s foundations. Over the centuries, the castle has changed hands many times. It resisted a five month siege (1589), sheltered the parliament of Rennes from the plague (1564, 1582 and 1583), served as a Huguenot stronghold (during the 16th century), served as a prison then military barracks and eventually became one of the first castles in France to be classified as a historical monument in the 1870s. The car park that once occupied the front of the castle has been drastically reduced as the timbered town of Vitré slowly approached the castle walls over the centuries. On one hand fairytale-esque and on the other, imposing military might, it’s hard to find a more fascinating place in Northern France for lovers of medieval history, heritage and architecture.

Tip: Want a lovely view of the castle…paired with lovely food? Relax at the Restaurant La Place just across from the castle with the turrets framing the restaurant’s windows and a menu of delicious Breton cuisine to choose from.

Explore Brittany & Northern France

Biertan Fortified Church Tower, Romania

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Biertan Fortified Church Tower, Romania

Romania is a good place for history. One of the border of multiple territories, Romania – and Transylvania on particular – is full of towers, fortifications, walls, castles, and other defensive elements. The more turbulent the region, the more castles you tend to find. This is the tower of Biertan Fortified Church. Yes you read that right – they even fortified their churches here, and Biertan was one of several such examples (Viscri is another). One of the most important Saxon fortified churches, Biertan is a UNESCO site with roots that stretch back to the 1200s. Its tower rises up from its hilltop position, peeping over the high walls to overlook the fairytale village of Biertan. Encircled by hills traced with vineyards and terracotta tiles gleaming in the sunlight, this picturesque ancient place was not only a place of beauty and culture, but one of power too. From 1572 to 1867, Biertan was the seat of the Saxon Evangelical bishops of Transylvania, though the tower itself is a 15th century gothic-style fortification, built to strengthen the church on the hill. It is a stunning place to visit for anyone interested in medieval architecture and Transylvanian history, and is only a short distance from Sighisoara.

Tip: Biertan is an easy day trip from Sighisoara, itself a stunning medieval town heaped in history (it’s the birthplace of Vlad Tepes!).

More Romanian History

The Dolomites, Italy

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The Dolomites, Italy

Towering mountains, snow-capped peaks, steep slopes traced with trails for skis and boots, depending on the season – the mighty Dolomites are beckoning. The Alps of France and Switzerland are Europe’s most well-known summits – and for good reason. But there are other majestic mountain ranges that deserve attention too. The Dolomites in northern Italy are one such place. While in actual fact, the Dolomites are a part of the Alps, these mountains in Sud Tyrol are often considered their own entity by locals. Less visited than parts of the Alps like Chamonix or Zermatt, the Dolomites offer an ideal mountain getaway located a bit more off the beaten track. Whether you’re looking for a winter ski holiday or you visit in summer, hiking boots laced up, this corner of Italy is a perfect outdoor playground. With many peaks reaching above 2,000m and even 3,000m, the mountain range is also home to the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park, and has even been awarded UNESCO status in 2009. Views from the top of summits like Mt Kronplatz are absolutely stunning and the wider Sud Tyrol region is home to hilltop castle after castle as well as numerous snug mountain towns, a unique Austro-Italic culture, great local beer and no shortage of hearty mountain cuisine. A region that has a long and shared history between Austria and Italy – with it only becoming part of Italy after WWI – explore a place that perfectly balances natural and cultural beauty, two languages, two heritages, and a complicated history.

Tip: There are many hiking trails weaving across these slopes, including alte vie 1-10 (“high paths”). But there are other options too if you’re not up for the climb, or simply pressed for time. For example, Mt Kronplatz (2,275m) has an all-year ski lift to the summit, where there is a hilltop restaurant with some killer views. Take it round trip, or one way and return on foot.

More Northeastern Italy