Tag Archives: France

Arch in Montpellier, France

Posted on by

Porte du Peyrou Arch in Montpellier, France

Based on the triumphal arch of St Denis in Paris, the Porte de Peyrou is a 17th century triumphal arch in the southern French city of Montpellier. So what is a triumphal arch? One of the most famous and prevalent architectural styles to result from ancient Rome, these freestanding decorative arches – often spanning a road or footpath – are built to impress, celebrate and awe, as well as strike fear in the beholder. There are hundreds throughout Europe, each depicting different scenes and carvings. The Porte de Peyrou dates to 1693 with later panels added in 1715, highlighting four scenes from King Louis XIV’s life. In some, Louis is dressed as an ancient hero, in others, he is shown effecting his successes: digging the Canal du Midi, revoking the Edict of Nantes (not great if you were a Huguenot!), winning battles and capturing cities. Despite the rather grim nature of the arch by today’s standards, there’s no doubt that it – and the city in which it resides – is beautiful. Montpellier is a lovely city in southern France a few kilometeres from the Mediterranean Sea. About halfway between Marseille and Narbonne, Montpellier’s slight distance from the sea makes it marginally less popular with tourists. Grand on a compact scale, the centre is full of light-coloured stone, cobbled streets, leafy green spaces, vibrant flowers, and neoclassical architecture. No matter whether skies are sunny and blue or moody and rain-splattered, Montpellier is a cheerful French city that manages to feel elegant at the same time as accessible.

Top tip: Ever considered kite surfing? There are plenty of spots not far from Montpellier to give it a go. Continuing with the water sport theme, why not go canoeing on the Gardon River under the impressive Roman site, the Pont du Gard.

Love Southern France:

Statues in Dinan Church, France

Posted on by

Statues in Dinan Church, France

Dinan is quaint. There’s no other word for it. It’s a fairytale, albeit a beloved and therefore popular one. One of the town’s most significant historical monuments is the Church (or Eglise) of St Malo. Not to be confused with the nearby town of St Malo (named for a Welsh monk with ties to Brittany), the Church of St Malo in Dinan is a gorgeous, peaceful place. The current church has its origins in the 15th century, though as always with such places, its foundations stretch back centuries, likely to the 12th century at least. With interruptions due to the War of Religion, the French revolution, and other conflicts, works started and stopped many times, leaving many quirks. This includes stained-glass windows, stone friezes and, most interestingly, carved stone gargoyles guarding three chapels. Technically, these creatures are not gargoyles; after all, gargoyles serve a specific purpose – running rainwater off walls. But what they lack in technical purpose, they make up in their devilish appearances, sporting grimaces, pointy ears, and horns and wings. The effect is chilling, and completely at odds with the outward charm of Dinan.

Top tip:

Don’t leave Brittany without trying both the fresh mussels (moules frites) or the crisp hard cider!

Dinan, Gargoyles and More

Inside Chateau Chenonceau, France

Posted on by

Inside Chateau de Chenonceau, France

If you like castles, you’ve heard of the Loire Valley. Even if you aren’t a castle enthusiast, you’ve probably heard of this glamorous region of France. This is the part of France where the rich came to escape Paris, where they came to relax (in their feathered beds), put the feet up (on their marble tables), enjoy pastimes like hunting and horse-riding (on their vast private estates), tuck into some delicious local food (fine dining only, of course), and party (with the best champagne). The richest royals and nobles of France once flocked to the Loire Valley in a 1% competition to see who could build the flashiest, fanciest, most disgustingly extravagant chateaus. One of the most famous of these ridiculous castle-chateaus is the Chateau de Chenonceau. Distinctive for being built on both sides of the river, the castle spans the breadth of the River Cher. Defined by a succession of strong and powerful women (Diane de Poitiers, Catherine Briçonnet, and Catherine de Medici, as well as Louise Dupin – first woman to draft a Code of Women’s Rights), Chenonceau exists in its present state because of their protection, restoration and loving care. The long section that spans the Cher, an offshoot waterway of the Loire River, is the Long Hall, pictured. Arresting, dramatic, symmetrical, this hall dwarfs visitors, immediately reminding one of the castle’s incredible might. It’s not all extravagance though – diligent nurses led by Simone Menier treated over 2,200 soldiers during WWI within the walls of Chenonceau, where the long halls (this one and the second level) housed 120 beds.

Tip: Learn more about visiting the castle here. Make sure you leave plenty of time to visit the gardens! No car? Take the train – there is a station within a 5 minute walking distance of the chateau. Chenonceau is very close to Amboise, another of the most famous Loire Valley chateaus.

Loire Valley Castles:

Castle of Vitré, France

Posted on by

Castle of Vitré, Brittany, France

A mix of Celtic and French, with a little bit of Roman and Norman thrown in for fun, Brittany, or as it’s known locally, Bretagne, is the westernmost region of France. It is the arm that juts out from the European continent into the swirling Atlantic. It very much embodies its two main roots, with French and Celtic elements mixed together. The Château de Vitré falls squarely within the French heritage (while les Roche-aux-Fées – situated just 30 km away – is very much within the Celtic heritage of Brittany). It is an impressive heap of medieval stone. Rounded turrets rise from the town centre, thick stone walls protect an inner courtyard, a deep dry moat encircles the walls, a narrow bridge connects the castle to town. It is built to intimidate and defend. It wasn’t always this stunningly beautiful and daunting stone pile though. The earliest castle on the spot – erected around 1,000 – was made of wood, with an early stone castle following at the end of the 11th century. The present structure really goes back to the early 1200s, taking its triangular form by following the geology below the castle’s foundations. Over the centuries, the castle has changed hands many times. It resisted a five month siege (1589), sheltered the parliament of Rennes from the plague (1564, 1582 and 1583), served as a Huguenot stronghold (during the 16th century), served as a prison then military barracks and eventually became one of the first castles in France to be classified as a historical monument in the 1870s. The car park that once occupied the front of the castle has been drastically reduced as the timbered town of Vitré slowly approached the castle walls over the centuries. On one hand fairytale-esque and on the other, imposing military might, it’s hard to find a more fascinating place in Northern France for lovers of medieval history, heritage and architecture.

Tip: Want a lovely view of the castle…paired with lovely food? Relax at the Restaurant La Place just across from the castle with the turrets framing the restaurant’s windows and a menu of delicious Breton cuisine to choose from.

Explore Brittany & Northern France

Inside La Basilique on Fourvière, Lyon, France

Posted on by

Inside La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière, Lyon, France

France is full of churches. You’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all, right? Wrong. The Basilique of Fourvière, or the Basilique, as it is affectionately known amongst the Lyonnais and Lyonnaise, is a huge white cathedral standing atop the hill of Fourvière. It looks like something out of a fantasy series, and truth be told, many visitors to Lyon mistake it for a castle when seen from afar. Lyon is a city in which the oldest parts start in the west with newer additions marching on slowly towards the east. Fourvière hill was the heart of Roman Lugdunum, the capital of Roman Gaul and the original capital of France. There was once a great Roman temple here, on this spot, a stone’s throw from the Roman amphitheatre atop the hill. Gone now, the emplacement was too good to ignore, so in 1872, a brilliant new cathedral, or basilica, was built here. And it is epic! The inside is gorgeous, of course. It’s all glitter and glam, built to impress and overwhelm the viewer. The Basilique is dedicated to Mary, because the medieval Lyonnais were convinced that she saved them from the Bubonic plague in 1643. So, a mere 230 years later, they built this church dedicated her. Residents would put candles in the windows to thank Mary each December. Today, the tradition continues via the Fête de Lumières, an impressive light festival worth seeing at least once. Forgoing the popular gothic style that had long dominated Medieval church-building, the Basilique instead draws from both Romanesque and Byzantine architecture, unusual choices in the late 1800s.

Top Tip: Visit Lyon in December for the 3-4 day long lights festival, the Fête de Lumières. Lyon is incredibly popular at that time, so make sure you book well in advance.

Visit More Churches

Timbered Houses in Dinan, France

Posted on by

Dinan Town Centre, Brittany, France

Walking the cobblestone streets of Dinan is like step back in time, or perhaps feeling like stepping onto a medieval film set. Street upon street of this small, bustling Breton town is lined with genuinely impressive half-timbered houses with columns, cobblestone alleys and pointed gables, with Rue du Jerzual, Place des Cordeliers and Place des Merciers among the most famous. Dinan has a wealthy past, once a trade centre for weavers, tanners and other respected craftspeople. There are ancient cathedrals and churches from as far back as the 12th century, and streets of exquisite fairytale houses from the 15th-17th centuries. The town is awash with life and liveliness, and it is a place that exudes history. Dinan is one of those rare places that seems to seamlessly blend modern life with a storybook faraway past; a place where modernity does not exist at the expense of the historic atmosphere. And what an atmosphere! Dinan is simply a beautiful corner of Brittany, a town perfect for lovers of history, culture, food and drink. And Brittany in general is one of France’s under-appreciated regions. Mocked for its “bad” weather (clearly whoever said that had a pretty close-minded view of what constitutes “good” weather), Brittany stays off many international radars but boasts some of France’s coolest spots, including rugged coastlines, adorable villages, great castles and forts, and of course, lots of seafood.

Top tip: You can’t leave Brittany without tasting the local cider! (The region is also famous for crepes and mussels, though thankfully not mixed together).

See More of Brittany

Streets of Ternand, France

Posted on by

Streets of Ternand Village, France

Ternand is one of the many ancient and beautiful villages of the Beaujolais region of France. The Beaujolais is an area north of Lyon known for its wine production. Vineyards spill out on every side. Though perhaps less famous than Bordeaux or Cotes-de-Rhone (that’s the region south of Lyon; its safe to say you’ll get good wine in Lyon!), the Beaujolais has a long-lasting and proud grape-related history. The Beaujolais is full of tiny villages that have sprung up over the centuries due to the area’s wine-coloured economic good fortunes. Ternand is one of many such villages, but is certainly one of the prettiest. Like most Beaujolais villages, Ternand is built of “pierres dorés” or local golden stones, giving the village a magical golden glow. Sadly, village populations are dwindling across Europe, and France is no exception. Perhaps with the recent trend in remote working, more people will choose to live in villages, but as it is, fewer than 700 people currently live in Ternand. It is a quiet place. Potted plants line the doorways, and cats sit watchful in windows. The clinks of cutlery and dishes sound in kitchens and gardens as cuisine is an important part of French living. Cobblestones echo with your soft footsteps. The views from Ternand over the surrounding Beaujolais hills are stunning, and the small fortifications at the heart of the village crumble slowly as they keep guard over the silent hills. For any tour of the Beaujolais, be it by foot, bike, or car, Ternand is a little-known village that you should definitely include. Just know that it’s a hilltop town and will require a bit of effort to arrive.

Tips: Start your Beaujolais tour from Villefranche-sur-soane. While not the most beautiful, it is the capital of the region, and you can do day trips from there. If you can, a lovely way to explore this hilly region might be by e-bike. If visiting in autumn, time it for the Beaujolais Nouveau (new wine) festival. The villages’ golden stone is best photographed at the Golden Hour before sunset.

More Beautiful Beaujolais:

Chamonix, France

Posted on by

Chamonix, France

Chamonix is a classic. It is the snow town. The ultimate Alpine snow town. The ones all of the others are modelled on. The valley of Chamonix has a long history – it was once part of the small but powerful House of Savoy, an ancient country that once encompassed everything from Torino and the Aosta Vally in Italy, through the mountains into Chambéry and Chamonix in the French Alps and up around Geneva in Switzerland). But what made Chamonix the snow town, epitome of French mountain tourism? Well, Chamonix has a few things going for it. Tourism really kicked off in the early 1800s, from the “Grand European tour” beloved by the wealthy, to the Alpine “cures” in Swiss-style resorts, and the early eras of mountaineering. People were drawn to the majestic Alps for their austere beauty and idyllic lifestyles. Chamonix is in a unique position – it is located at the base of Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest mountain. Tourism in the area exploded, and mountain guides were regulated, limiting how many could access the formidable but enticing slopes of Mont Blanc and nearby peaks. Then, in 1924, Chamonix hosted the first Winter Olympic Games, cementing Chamonix as the top Alpine destination. To this day, even 100 years later, Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (its official name) is still considered the authority on Alpine tourism. Fame has its downfalls though – this small town sees large numbers of tourists each year, and prices represent that. Of course, Chamonix and surrounding Alps and the valley are stunning places and wildly popular – but do keep in mind that it isn’t the only stunning town in the Alps.

Tip: Everyone thinks of Chamonix in association with winter. But what about visiting in summer? Chamonix can still be a popular place, but it has a very different vibe, and hiking in the Alps in summer is awesome. Perhaps you’d like to stay in a gîte (a sort of French B&B) deeper in the Alps and maybe just come to Chamonix for the day.

Other Alpine Towns for Your Next Alps Trip:

Clermont-Ferrand Cathedral, France

Posted on by

Clermont-Ferrand Cathedral, France

The central French city of Clermont-Ferrand is famed for two things: rugby and volcanoes. The surrounding region of Auvergne is home to a wealth of the rounded conical forms of volcanoes. Happily extinct, the volcanic ash from bygone times have left the soil rich and the rocks dark. Many of these volcanic-tinted lava stones have been used in the construction of Clermont’s buildings, most magnificently, in the Cathedral of Clermont-Ferrand. The effect is astounding. It is as if the builders had decided to take the gothic style to the extreme. The facade is dark, brooding, and imposing and the inside is even more eerily astonishing – no medieval churchgoer would feel like straying from the good Christian path if they worshipped here. Clermont’s current cathedral dates from the 1200s though it sits on the site of earlier Romanesque structures. Auvergne’s lava stones not only gave the building its unique colour but also their strength allowed the cathedral’s architects to build to eye-watering heights and highly delicate pillars. Construction of the original cathedral took just over 100 years, though modifications were made in the 15th and 16th centuries – and it was almost destroyed during the French Revolution, saved only because the locals argued that it would be a good place to gather groups of people. A must visit on any trip to Clermont-Ferrand and Auvergne.

Tip: Love beer? Head over to the Delirium pub, where you’ll find dozens of fun beers on tap, less than a 10 minute walk from the cathedral.

Appreciating Auvergne

Fort Bé, St Malo, France

Posted on by

Fort Bé, St Malo, France

The great northern French city of Saint Malo has long gained its wealth from its ports. Such ports required protection, which was ensured by a series of fortified tidal islands at the mouth of the River Rance. First fortified in 1667, the fort of Petit Bé as we see it today was erected in 1689 in an effort to protect St Malo against France’s 17th century enemies, the Dutch and the English. St Malo’s island defences were instigated by the Marquis de Vauban, a military engineer under Louis XIV. After being commissioned, in 1695 it held just nine guns. But two years later, the fort was enlarged and modified to old 15 gun (including four 48-pounders and six 36-pounders), and the fort we see today has 19 gun loops. At its height, this island fort garrisoned an impressive force of 177 soldiers. Petit Bé was just one of a series of forts designed to protect St Malo that Vauban designed – others included the more famous Fort National, as well as Fort Harbourg, Fort de la Conchée, and the forts of Cézembre and Pointe de la Varde, though some have now been destroyed. Near Petit Bé is the island, Grand Bé, which houses the ruins of a much older fort as well as the grave of writer Chateaubriand. St Malo itself has a series of ramparts that seperate city from sea and the city itself is an imposing place. St Malo is more than just fortifications though – once you breach its walls, inside you will find a wonderful world of cobbled streets and cosy shops, bustling crowds, never-ending cafes and restaurants. Feast on everything from mussels and other fresh fish to crepes and sugary delicacies – paired of course with a glass of wine!

Tip: Petit Bé and Grand Bé can be visited at low tide from the Bon Secours beach. The Fort National is also a tidal island but can only be visited from 1 June to 30 September when flying the French flag (see more on its website). Other nearby islands like Cézembre (home to various chapel and monastic ruins) are reached by private boat or chartered boat tours.

Visit in Northern France:

St Suliac Village, France

Posted on by

St Suliac Village, France

This tiny cobbled village is easy to miss – but that would be a mistake. A fishing village by trade, this tiny village has long depended on the bounties of the sea to sustain it. Located about halfway down the shores of the Rance, a wide bay cutting through western Brittany, this little place is as quaint as it is quiet. Further off the beaten path from nearby favourites of Saint Malo or Dinan, St Suliac is where we slow down and enjoy life. Many of the buildings date from the 15th to 18th centuries, and at its centre is an ancient and pretty church. Along the streets amongst disused fishing nets and other tools of the trade, spot statues of the Virgin – put there by the inhabitants to keep their loved ones safe from the perils of the sea. Home to barely 900 inhabitants, St Suliac is classed as one of the official “most beautiful villages in France” and with its fairytale alleys, stone houses, fishing nets, bobbing boats and seaside locale, everything about this place is pure magic.

Pro tip: This is a lovely short trip from Dinan, Saint Malo or Dinard. Enjoy a coffee on the promenade along the Rance – you can’t beat that view! 

More Beautiful Villages in France

Angers Castle, France

Posted on by

Angers Castle, France

Angers Castle is one of the most solidly impressive castles in this part of France. Not far from Bretagne (or Brittany in English) is the famous Loire Valley, well-known for a particular style of fortification, which it does in excess: the extremely luxurious and uber glamorous French chateau. (You know what we mean – the fancy, elegant likes of Chateau de Chambord or Chateau de Chenanceau that exude wealth, power, and excessive design). Angers has a different message – keep out, or else. This impressive pile is also far older – the foundations date back to the early Middle Ages, between 970 – 1040, erected on top of an old Roman fort. The present castle dates to the 13th century – the very heart of Europe’s castle-building craze. Designed to protect Anjou from the Normans, the castle later became a central part of the Plantagenet family’s stomping ground – the Angevin Empire. Angers Castle changed hands a lot in the 1100s, 1200s and 1300s. It was lux-ified when King John “Le Bon” offering the huge building to his son Louis in 1352, who made several changes designed to increase the castle’s comfort. Like other Loire castles, in 1562 Catherine di Medici also had a hand in its development. The 1500s saw the rise of gunpowder, an invention that changed warfare, and the role of a castle. Like most of the region’s castles, Angers and other Loire castles were turned into luxury palaces for France’s 1%. Withstanding attacks from the angry Huguenots, Angers Castle was later set up as a top military academy and armoury. Though a recent fire damaged many ancient artefacts, its famous tapestries escaped unharmed. In fact, Angers Castle is home to the world’s oldest and largest collection of medieval tapestries worldwide, including the famous 14th-century “Apocalypse Tapestry.” The former moated area is home to stunning gardens. 

Pro tip: Walking the walls and parapets offers a stunning view over Angers and the River Maine. Missed the walls? You’ll still get a great view just past castle at the aptly-named “Promenade au Bout du Monde” (the promenade at the end of the world). If you have time, why not head down to the river and follow the riverside paths through the Parc de Balzac and out to Lac du Maine – there is even a beach if heading there in summer. There are more than 12km of riverside paths south of the castle. 

More French Castles

*Like all posts shared during 2020/21, this photo was taken on pre-pandemic travels.

Bridge of Olliergues, France

Posted on by

Olliergues Bridge, France

France seems to offer the visitor a never-ending offer of dazzlingly beautiful things to see (and taste and hear and smell…). Olliergues is a small, timeless village tucked into the heart of the rural region of Auvergne, itself at the heart of France. Not on most tourist tracks, this is the kind of place you go to get away from it all, to go back in time a century or two. The modern world has hardly touched places like Olliergues, where the main street is still made up of mostly mom-and-pop stores and traditional crafts. Crossing the Dore River, this pretty bridge once carried visitors arriving from the south into this cobbled hilltop town. Olliergues is one of the oldest towns in the region, with vestiges from the medieval era as well as plenty of structures from the 15th and 16th centuries still in use today. There were once terraced gardens too, though most have unfortunately fallen into abandonment. The lovely stone moss-carpeted old bridge is no longer in use of course – there is now a modern bridge running alongside it – but this historic monument stands as a reminder of another era. Bridges were once immensely important for trade, connecting small communities with one another. The “Pont Romain” or “Roman Bride” is a vaulted arch bridge and was completed not in the Roman era as its name implies but rather a bit more recently, in 1612. Olliergues is a splendid, lovely village deep in the Livradois-Forez natural park region of Auvergne, sporting picture-perfect alleys and houses. There is a small museum showcasing local crafts, a pretty little church, and a couple of spots to taste the local cuisine. 

Pro tip: Stay in the lap of luxury at the historic Chateau de Chantelauze where you’ll be treated like royalty in this comfortable and cosy hotel. Make sure you taste local Auvergne cheeses like le Cantal, le Bleu d’Auvergne, Saint-Nectaire and l’Ambert, which comes from the village of Ambert, just 20 km away. 

More of Auvergne 

Lyon Hotel de Ville, France

Posted on by

Lyon Hotel de Ville (City Hall), France

Ah Lyon, France’s second city. Most tourists flock to Paris or the French Riviera, but more people are starting to find their way to Lyon. Not really south, not really north, but not really the east either, Lyon sits on the banks of not one but two major rivers, the Saone and the Rhone, about 2/3 of the way to the Alps. Once the capital of Gaul during Roman times, Lyon has always played significance roles in French history. The city itself is a beautiful melange of Roman, medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, 20th century utilitarianism, and of course, the bizarreness of modern architecture. At its heart is the Presqu’ile, the place between the two rivers, home to many of the city’s most important buildings, including the Hotel de Ville, the French name for the City Hall. Where once the church was the centre of any French village, town or city, in secular France, this is now the town hall. Built alongside the nearby magnificent Place des Terraux (location of the Musée des Beaux Arts), the Hotel de Ville was constructed between 1645 and 1651 in full Baroque style. Sadly, a fire in 1674 led to further restorations after the Great Hall, chapel, belfry, attic and roof were engulfed. There was once a statue of King Louis XIV but during the chaos of the French Revolution, this was torn down. Some 50 or so years later, the missing statue was replaced with one of Henry IV. Inside, as outside, is in full a decadent and extravagant style – great chandeliers, marble floors, gilded walls, beautiful crown moulding, Lyonnaise silk, vaulted ceilings, huge stairwells, and great halls abound in this amazing building.

Pro tip: Though not always open to the public, there are certain events during the year in which you can attend. You can also take guided tours of some of the rooms; more info here – note the visits are in French only.

More To See in Lyon

Church of Pont du Chateau, France

Posted on by

pont du chateau reflections

Église Sainte Martine in Pont du Chateau, France

Pont du Chateau is a small, cosy town in the heart of the largely-overlooked province of Auvergne, generally recognised for volcanic landscapes, quintessential villages, hearty dishes and cheese. With its name literally translating to “bridge of the castle,” you just know Pont du Chateau will be lovely! The famed stone bridge that bisects the River Allier has been a historic crossing point for generations, and a reason for the town’s long-standing good fortune. Overlooking the River Allier, the beautiful Eglise Sainte Martine casts its tousled reflection in the river’s rippled surface. Dedicated to a 3rd century Roman martyr, this church even has sections of it constructed during the Roman era – made of a local rock called “arkose” – while other sections of Sainte Martine were erected during the Gothic era of churches (i.e. medieval France), using volcanic stone quarried at Volvic (yes that name is familiar because Volvic is also a leading producer of bottled water). And the hilly site itself once served as fortress for the Carolingians owning to its positioning overlooking the river and near the castle. Inside, Sainte Martine Church’s lovely multi-coloured pillars and arcades date to the 12th and 13th centuries – it is amazing how such an old building is in such a great state even today. Pont-du-Chateau is an old village full of history, ever-apparent in the winding town centre, though a modern town has grown around the tangle of cobbled streets and wattle-and daub-facades. The castle of the town name is less a castle and more a manor or domaine; it is instead a fancy 17th-century structure that now houses the mayor’s office. Pont du Chateau is on few tourist maps but it is a great example of a true Auvergne town!

Pro tip: A walk or jog along the river is a great place to enjoy for this view and more. There is a lovely path perfect for a morning jog, eventually heading to other local riverside towns. Auvergne is a great county for cheese – local to the area, try the fourme d’Ambert, St Nectaire, le Cantal or le bleu d’auvergne. You can get fresh cheese at many of the local shops. 

  • What other Riversides to Explore?

 

Uzès, France

Posted on by

Uzes copy

Uzès, France

Ah, the magic of southern France. Uzès is a small, typical town huddled in the sunny southern region of Languedoc-Roussillon. A short drive away from the bustling market towns of Nimes and Avignon, Uzès started life as a Roman settlement, and it was in fact from the source here that the Roman aqueduct that includes the famous section now known as the Pont-du-Gard was built. Uzès has a varied cultural history. It was once home to a thriving Jewish community thanks to a tolerant local population, until the more narrow-minder northerners forced Uzès to expel the non-converted Jews. Later, it was the northernmost reach of the Moorish Spain, staying in Andalusian control until the 750s – though this 30-year period didn’t result in any of the splendid Moorish Mudejar architecture so resounding in Spain. And then in the medieval era, Uzès played host to a group of Cathars, a minority religious group that was both prevalent and persecuted in the south of France. Today, Uzès is a small, lovely town. Its main sights include a Capuchin chapel (primly built on a former Roman temple, thanks Christianity), the beautiful twice rebuilt Uzès Cathedral (the current building dates from the 17th century), several towers, and the medieval château du Duché. The town also hosts a splendid local market on Saturdays. It is a typical regional town and offers a lovely small town vibe compared to the larger Nimes or Montpellier.

Pro tips: Languedoc-Roussillon is a fantastic wine region – we recommend a wine tasting or at the very least trying a few local wines. One lovely wine region not too far from Uzès is Mount Ventoux – the “windy mountain.” Nearby Provence is known for lovely rosés – the perfect summertime drink. Head to cosmopolitan Nimes for Roman architecture, Avignon for religious structures, and into the Cevennes Mountains for great hiking. 

More of Cute France Towns

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

St Suliac Village, Brittany, France

Posted on by

St Suliac

St Suliac Village, Brittany/Bretagne, France

This tiny fishing village in the northeastern corner of Brittany is easy to miss and not on most tourist routes. Not too far south from the well-loved St Malo, St Suliac is another village listed under the official list of “Most Beautiful Villages in France.” Sitting along the shores of the Rance estuary, St Suliac is a quaint village with a long history of fishing – something that is still evidenced in the design and decor of the village. Fishing nets are everywhere, and seafood dishes are common. You’ll also likely spot statues in niches all over town – usually that of the Virgin Mary, erected in a bid to ask her to keep watch over its seafaring populace. This typically Breton commune is part of the “Emerald Coast” – so named for its deep colour brought on by the wet climate. Brittany is one of France’s most fascinating regions. The climate isn’t the region’s only thing in common with the Celtic countries. It has its own Celtic language (though like all Celtic regions such as Ireland, Scotland, Wales, Galicia, the Isle of Mann, Cornwall, etc), the occupants all speak the main language (ie French in this case). Brittany or Bretagne also shares its mysterious Neolithic history and monuments with its Celtic neighbours, most notably Ireland. It is an amazingly rich region with many places to explore – with St Suliac as just one of Brittany’s many treasures to be found!

Pro tip: The promenade of St Suliac makes a lovely spot for a walk, a picnic or just a coffee with a view!

More of Brittany / Bretagne

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Bagnols Village, Beaujolais, France

Posted on by

Bagnols

Bagnols, Beaujolais, France

Small and quaint, Bagnols is a firm member of the so-called ‘Golden Villages’ of the Beaujolais region in central France, just north of Lyon. While not an official member of the “Most Beautiful Villages in France” list, Bagnols is widely considered to be one of the Beaujolais’ loveliest little secret spots. Tucked well into the southern slopes of the Beaujolais, the village of Bagnols has ties to the middle ages and the Renaissance. The château (now a hotel) is 13th century, while the village church is 15th century. There’s even a Napoleonic statue from 1804. As with most villages and towns in the Beaujolais, wine-making and viticulture has been the prominent industry, and Bagnols is no exception. The golden-green hills surrounding the village are lined with vineyards and vines, and good (cheap) wine is easy to come by here, and throughout the Beaujolais and wider Rhône region. Though quarrying is no longer occurring here, once upon a time, there was a local quarry where the gorgeous golden stones you see in Bagnols came from, as well as other golden villages throughout this beautiful and over-looked region.

Protip: There are many good “sentiers” (ie waymarked trails) weaving throughout the Beaujolais for those who like hiking. There are many different Beaujolais wines – you may want to start your journey with a wine tasting – there are many vineyards that offer this, or find one in Villefranche the regional capital.

Find More Beaujolais

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Château de Ravel, France

Posted on by

chateau de Ravel Auvernge France

Château de Ravel, Auvergne, France

Our virtual travel today takes us to the centre of France, to the not-so-famous region of Auvergne. Despite it not being well-known outside of France, Auvergne has a lot to recommend it. Volcanic mountains, hearty dishes, amazing cheese, distinct churches, great hiking, and of course, plenty of castles, to name a few. One such castle is the Château de Ravel, whose foundations go back to at least 1171, commenced by Bernard de avel. In the 1280s, Ravel was actually owned and lived in by the King of France (Philippe the III), though his son gave away the castle to his the man who would be named chancellor of France. Like most castles, Ravel has gone through a series of alterations and face lifts, each changing with the styles of the times. Most of what we see here today is 13th century, along with a 17th century terrace and courtyard, which has an incredible view of Auvergne’s volcanic peaks, the Puys of the Massif Central. Inside, the rooms have been decorated in 17th and 18th century styles – and all without damaging the original Gothic structures and design elements.

Pro tip: The castle is privately owned but opened some days in the summer. The grounds are open to visitors year round. While here, you’ll definitely have to go for a hike up one of the peaks, such as the Puy de Dôme, Puy de Sancy or Puy de Côme! 

French Castles

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

La Roche aux Fées Neolithic tomb, France

Posted on by

Roche aux Fees

La Roche aux Fées Neolithic tomb, France

While travel isn’t possible right now, we’re continuing with our virtual explorations, this time a visit to northern France. Ireland probably contains the Neolithic era’s highest density of Neolithic monuments, but it’s not the only country with great prehistoric sites. Scotland and England are also home to quite a few Neolithic – and Prehistoric in general -era sites. The region of Brittany / Bretagne is another place of Celtic influence (as well as parts of Spain and Portugal), and Bretagne also home to quite a few of these ancient sites. What the region lacks in quantity, it makes up in quality. The Roche aux Fées – translating as the Rock of the Fairies – is one of the best-preserved ancient sites of this era. Comprising of 48 stones (9 of which are roof slabs) – the heaviest of which weighs 40-45 tonnes – the site is very complex. Like many sites we still see in Ireland (notably, mountaintop cairns), the original structure of the Roche aux Fées would have been covered with a mound of stones and earth. Stones used to build this 20 metre long gallery tomb would have been dragged here on a series of ropes, wheels and pulleys from the quarry site. Though its gallery form is not unique – there is a similar tomb at Lough Gur in Co Limerick, and others in rural Ireland such as in Co Mayo – the Roche aux Fées is certainly one of the best specimens of its type, and one of the largest. It is thought that it dates to 3,000-2,500BC, making it about 5,000 years old (and therefore older than the Pyramids of Giza)! Unlike in Ireland where such sites were built atop mountains or near bodies of water, the Roche aux Fées is located down a country lane in a quiet woodland. It is possible to go inside the tomb – the highest point is 4 metres, so you can stand up inside. As its name suggests, local legend claims that the Roche aux Fées was built by fairies (also common in Irish folklore) as a house or temple.

Pro tip: Generally, April and May are ideal months to travel in France – the weather is mild (generally just a light jacket needed), you’ll avoid peak season prices and there are few others travelling at this time. Watch out for May 1st (Labour Day) when most museums, castles etc are closed. The Roche aux Fées has free entry. Visitor centre open from June to August. 

More Neolithic & Prehistoric Monuments

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Saint Gervais les Bains, France

Posted on by

St Gervais les Bains

Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, France

Saint-Gervais-les-Bains is the posh cousin of the even more posh ski resort of Chamonix. In winter, both Saint Gervais and Chamonix – and countless other Alpine towns – turn into a winter wonderland, welcoming skiers from all over the world (but usually the poshest parts of the world in the case of Chamonix and Saint Gervais. Less posh visitors might go instead to Grenoble or Annecy). The summer season, on the other hand, is quite different. During summer, the Alps become less… well, posh. People arrive with muddy hiking boots, trekking poles, and well-worn backpacks, ready to get out into the wild. Places like Saint-Gervais-les-Bains become fantastic jumping off points for hiking in the Alps, the perfect combination between comfort and rustic mountain rustic charm. The trails are limitless, and there’s plenty for every level. Whether you prefer challenging mountain hikes, gentle countryside ambles, or something in between, it’s certain you’ll find it in the Alps. We recommend hiring a local guide for a day to show off the best trails best suited to your level – or at the very least, consulting the local tourism office. And by evening, settle in to the cosy warmth of the town with a well-earned cold beer and steaming pizza!

Pro tip: Be sure to try some of the local Savoyard pizzas – the proximity to Italy makes them utterly delicious. Also, be sure to try other dishes like tartiflette, raclette or fondu – all dishes made with local cheese.

Explore More of the Alps

 

Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard, France

Posted on by

Annecy hills Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard

Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard near Annecy, France

Perched atop the lush foothills of the French Alps and overlooking the beautiful azure waters of the Lac d’Annecy, the Château de Menthon-Saint-Bernard (more commonly known as the Château de Menthon), is a spectacular medieval castle that can trace its foundations back to the 10th century! Originally built to maintain control of the lake and the old Roman road through the mountains, Château de Menthon is named after St Bernard of Menthon, the patron saint of skiers (as well as founder of hospitals and other saintly deeds). Unlike most castles who have changed hands many times, the Chateau de Menthon has actually been in the Menthon family since about 1180 – an impressive feat! Though little changed throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, the castle was renovated several times in the 18th and 19th centuries. Fun fact – the father of the present owner was present during the Nuremburg Trials (representing France) and was one of the early forces behind a “united Europe” (later to become the European Union). With over a 100 rooms (though not all on display of course!), the castle is an incredible architectural undertaking. The Château de Menthon’s fairytale-like setting overlooking village, lake and mountains, tucked deep into the woodland, adds to the castle’s charm, wonder and intrigue.

Pro tip: Also visit the Chateau d’Annecy, who shares a similar architecture (and is currently home to a modern art museum). Make the most of the lake and explore the Lac d’Annecy by boat.

Visit More of Annecy

 

Arnas Village, Beaujolais, France

Posted on by

Arnas flowers.jpg

Arnas Village, France

Tucked into the Beaujolais, the wee French village of Arnas is found just outside of Villefranche-sur-Saône, the “capital” of the Beaujolais wine region. On the lovely city of Lyon’s doorstep are two impressive wine regions – to the south is the Côtes du Rhône, and to the north is the Beaujolais. Though smaller than the Côtes du Rhône, the Beaujolais is the superior wine-making region as its rolling hills and tiny cobbled villages follow an ancient tradition ever-present to the region and imprinted into the landscape. Arnas is one such village where wine is all-important, an art passed from father to son, mother to daughter. Every September is the harvest season, a time of year in which the whole family gets together to harvest the grapes. Not long after the harvest (or “vendanges“) is the festival of the Beaujolais Nouveau in November – the presentation and drinking of the new wine. This year, it was this past weekend – the 21st of November – but the festival of the Beaujolais Nouveau is held around the same time every year – see more info here. Arnas itself is a small place though bustling with life, from dancing sunflowers on the edge of the village to a busy village square where church, school, bar, restaurant and bakery all jostle for place. Cobbled streets, historic houses and narrow alleys make this place the perfect stereotypical Beaujolais village. Make sure you don’t leave without a bit of wine!

Pro tip: Come in November for the Fete de Beaujolais Nouveau! But even if you visit at another time of the year, there will be plenty of wine – and probably the odd festival too. There are many signposted hiking paths (“sentiers”) that weave through the region, lovely for short hikes and countryside rambles. Don’t miss the lovely domaine, Château de Fléchères on the other side of the river – visitor info here. 

Other Places in the Beaujolais & Nearby

 

Tunnel de la Croix Rousse, Lyon, France

Posted on by

CroixRousse Tunnel.jpgTunnel de la Croix Rousse – Modes Doux, Lyon, France

One of Lyon’s many little-known secrets is the Tunnel de la Croix Rousse. Tunnels and passageways have a long history in Lyon, with the most famous being the traboules of Vieux Lyon and Croix Rousse (sort of interior passages used to transport silk and other textiles without going outside). The Tunnel de Croix Rousse – passing underneath the historic neighbourhood – was originally opened to motor vehicles in 1952. It wasn’t until much later, in 2013, that the pedestrianised tunnel was opened – just in time for the renowned Fête des Lumières, an amazing lights festival held over several days in December every year. But even when it’s not the Fête des Lumières, the whole length of the Tunnel de la Croix Rousse plays host to animations, colours, and short films projected on the walls and ceiling of this long pedestrian tunnel. For a city that prides itself on films, cameras, tunnels (or passages) and imagination, the Tunnel de la Croix Rousse is the perfect combination. Traversing this tunnel is far more than for getting from point A to point B – it is a veritable work of art, bringing the viewer into the heart of the city.

Pro tip: At 1.8 kilometres long (roughly 1 mile), biking through the tunnel is perhaps the easiest way to enjoy the show – walking will take about 25 mins. You can rent a city bike from any of the hundreds of stations of the Velo’V all around the city at a very reasonable daily rate. Learn more about the tunnel here. Animations from 16h to 20h on weekdays and from 14h to 20h on weekends. 

Visit More of Lyon

 

Caves of Clierzou, Auvergne, France

Posted on by

Auvergne caves

Caves of Clierzou, Auvergne, France

The region of Auvergne is surely one of the most under-rated in all of France. Barely a blimp on most tourist’s radars, Auvergne, located in the heart of the country, is home to an incredible mountain range, the Massif Central. Incredibly ancient, beautiful and rugged though accessible, the Puys of the Massif Central are a hiker’s paradise. While the Puy de Dôme is the icon of Auvergne and its mountain range, there are many other lesser-known mountains, like the Puy de Clierzou (or Cliersou), rising some 1,199 metres and home to a network of caves. Though the mountains were remote until opened up by recent roads, the Caves of Clierzou have been used since Antiquity, when they were found and inhabited by the Gallo-Roman peoples. Atop the Puy de Dôme there is the Roman-era Temple of Mercure, but in smaller places like the Caves of Clierzou, there is also evidence of human use through the centuries. From the Caves of Clierzou, one has a good view of the Puy de Dôme, a sacred place for those who built their temple here. Oh and did we mention these mountains are extinct volcanoes? On your hike through the Puy de Clierzou and the Puy de Sansy past the caves, you’ll get the chance to stand inside an ancient volcanic crater…

Pro tip: Clermont-Ferrand is the regional capitol and main point of entry. Near the Caves of Clierzou, Orcines is the closet town, and home to a splendid cathedral (one of five of the same design, like this one at nearby St Saturnin). There are many hikes in the Massif Central and the Puys – the hike up Puy de Sansy (with the added bonus of Puy de Clierzou) is one of the more popular and well-marked. There is some info here and a circuit of Puy de Sansy here. No wild camping or fires allowed. 

More of Auvergne