Category Archives: Scotland

Snowy Aviemore, Scotland

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Aviemore in the Snow, Scotland

If you were to transport a Colorado snow town into Scotland, Aviemore is what you’d get. The Cairngorms might not be the Alps in immensity, but Scotland’s preeminent mountain range is still mighty and impressive, acting as a hub for all things outdoors. It is dual season as well, with fair-weather visitors donning hiking boots while snow-lovers wait anxiously for the flakes to fall before making a beeline for snow boots, skis and Aviemore. If you love to ski and want to stay in the UK, Aviemore and the Cairngorms are the place to go. Downtown, you’ll find shops catering to every element of the Scottish outdoors. Set on a backdrop of snow-capped peaks, the Cairngorms offer hiking, skiing, snow-shoeing, snowboarding, cycling, mountain biking, wild swimming, yoga, paddling, and everything in between. Aviemore is an excellent hub for outdoor lovers. More than just a place to eat and sleep, you’ll spend time with like-minded people, learn about Scottish culture, and, for a short time at least, become part of the adventure-happy community of Aviemore and the Cairngorms.

Top tip: Want the cosy Scottish B&B experience complete with roaring fire, cheery hosts, hearty local breakfast and endless reading material? There are many B&Bs in town, but we love and recommend checking out Ravenscrieg B&B in the centre of town.

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Glenelg Brochs, Scotland

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Glenelg Brochs, Scotland

What is a broch? No, it’s not a type of jewellery. A broch is actually a uniquely-Scottish type of prehistoric architecture. A concentric, double-walled roundtower built for fortification against invasion. Though found in hundreds of carbon copies across Scotland, brochs did not make it beyond Scottish borders. Two of these fascinating structures – complete with narrow, hidden staircases tucked in the hollow spaces between walls and secreted underground passages and chambers – rise from the misty woods of Glen Beag. Located within a stone’s throw of the beloved and iconic Isle of Skye, Glenelg’s two brochs are fantastically Iron Age. Easily accessible from the road through through a cheery green field framed by stone fences, Dun Telve, as this broch is known, is among the tallest remaining stone brochs. Dating 2,300-1,900 years old, it is relatively intact for its age and delicate design. What’s interesting is its closeness to a second broch, Dun Troddan. As fortified structures, brochs were usually solitary beings. Possibly one broch was erected to replace the other, or did the families of each broch live there at the same time? Add that to the list of unexplained historical mysteries…

Top tip: Visit at sunrise or sunset to feel the might of the brochs’ Iron Age mystique.

Read More Ancient Scotland

The Quiraing, Isle of Skye, Scotland

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The Quiraing, Isle of Skye, Scotland

In a country crowded with islands, the stunning Isle of Skye is surely Scotland’s most iconic island. Skye’s rocky skyline’s most distinctive geological formation is the Quiraing, a steep and barren landslip seemingly scraping the heavens. Part of the Trotternish Ridge, it is among Skye’s most popular hiking spots, and it’s not hard to see why. With an elevation of 543m (about 1,700 feet), the path skirts the middle, ducking and weaving amongst the towering stone pillars and columns. Many pillars have names – the Needle, the Table, the Prison, among others. Scotland is a place to stop and appreciate the grandeur of nature’s beauty and everything nature is capable of creating, particularly when faced with such eye-catching scultures like the Quiraing. Skye is a place to breathe fresh air, feel the squelch of mud underfoot, hear the woosh of birds in the air, smell the salt spray tinged air, drink in some of the most dramatic panoramas you’ll ever encounter. In short, Skye – and the Quiraing – are an outdoor lover’s paradise.

Tip: The Quiraing hike takes 2-3 hours, and is about 7 km. The trailhead starts from a small car park on the Quiraing Rd at the top of the Trotternish Peninsula. See more about the hike here.

Hiking in Scotland

Harbour of the Isle of Raasay, Scotland

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Harbour of the Isle of Raasay, Scotland

Everyone’s heard of Scotland‘s famous Isle of Skye, but what about the Isle of Raasay? Hanging off to the side of the Isle of Skye, there’s no bridge to this little place, and limited amenities. According to locals, the Isle of Raasay is more or less what the Isle of Skye was before the bridge was built. Accessed by ferry (pictured above!), Raasay is a tiny slip of a thing, home to a hotel, a distillery, a cafe, and a very tiny gallery. As well as the ruins of an old mine and miles of hiking trails. While Skye can get busy, the pace on the Isle of Raasay is steadfastly slow. Just 160 souls call this place home. The tiny “village” of Inverarish Terrace – really just a couple of streets of wee terraced cottages – was built to house workers of the iron mine installed in the early 1900s. The island was traditionally the home of Clan MacSween but it was later ruled by the MacLeods from the 15th to the 19th century. On the far side of the island, drive up Callum’s Road, immortalised in music, to the ruins of Brochal Castle. From the end of the road, there are a number of hiking trails and even a rustic, almost-inaccessible bothy set in a stunning setting for those wishing to stay the night. Or, relax in luxury at the manor hotel where old-world charm is the name of the day. If you’re looking for quiet hiking trails, great whiskey, old world charm, remote bothies, impressive ruins, lush woodland, fascinating history, or simply an out-of-the-way place to kick back away from modern life, the Isle of Raasay is just the spot.

Tip: Don’t miss the Pictish stone, a stunning carved stone from ancients, the 13th century St Maol-luags Chapel and graveyard, and do climb the hill above the stone to the lonely grave at the top for some really lovely views.

More Scottish Locations

Ness Islands, Inverness, Scotland

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Ness Islands, Inverness, Scotland

Pull up your collar up and wrap your scarf around your neck, tug on those silly knitted mittens and yank your cap (the one with the puffy bit on top) over your head. The day may be chilly, winter may be well set in, the icy snow may crunch under your boots, but that’s no excuse not to get out in the fresh air to uncover new marvels. Inverness is a city very much at home in adverse weather. It is a place that shrugs its shoulders at chilly temperatures, smiles at new snowfall, rolls its eyes at rain, sighs at soft mist – as if to say, “is that all you’ve got? Bring it, weather.” The first stop for many on their way to the Cairngorms and the greater Scottish Highlands region, Inverness is a snug city folded along the banks of the River Ness, which is of course only a short distance from Loch Ness, which is of course home to a dino-like monster or two slinking within its murky depths. (Fun fact – no matter what you believe, there is at least one Loch Ness monster here – a 1930s Nessie film prop was lost to the inky depths and still resides at the bottom of the loch). The best way to experience the River Ness to walk along the Ness Islands, an-interlocked collection of natural islands that form a sort of middle-of-the-river park. Connected by Victorian footbridges and traced with narrow paths shrouded in tree canopies, the Ness Islands are a lovely place for a stroll. Dotted with carved benches, hardy fishermen and other remnants of artists’ works nestled amongst the mature woodland, watch the sunset at the edge of this quiet and brooding place. At the close of this Scottish winter’s day, make your way back into the city for a cosy dinner before kicking off your Cairngorms adventure.

Tip: Enjoy that cosy winter’s meal at the adorably-named The Filling Place, where cosy comfort food is their specialty.

What’s to Love About Inverness

An Clisham Mountain, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

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An Clisham Mountain, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

These eerie, majestic ridge lines erupt from the small rugged peninsula known as the Isle of Harris. At 799 metres (2,621 ft) high, An Clisham mountain is the highest mountain in the Outer Hebrides, a collection of outlaying islands to the west of Scotland. The largest part of the Outer Hebrides are two islands. The Isle of Harris, a sort of conjoined twin with the Isle of Lewis, is the rugged, mountainous sibling to Lewis’ rolling open moors and expansive bogland. An Clisham is the only Corbett in the archipelago. Scotland employs a ranking system for its mountains, with Munros being the largest, soaring over 3,000m (914m) and Corbetts the second-largest, measuring 2,500–3,000 ft (762.0–914.4 m). An Clisham offers stunning views over Harris, mountains, lakes and all, as well as the sea loch, Seaforth. With no trail to the summit and a rough terrain underfoot, this isn’t an easy hike but is well worth it for any mountaineer or outdoor lover. Best explored with a guide if not trained in orientation. 

Pro Tip: While some expert hikers might like to walk across the whole ridgeline (a very challenging and somewhat dangerous hours-long hike), a better option is to simply climb to Clisham’s summit from the A859 road where there is a small car park. 

Visit Scotland 

Urquhart Castle, Scotland

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Urquhart Castle, Scotland

Scotland is home to quite a few castles – most of them pretty cool – but Urquhart tends to stand out. This is probably because it is built along the shores of what is quite possibly the world’s most famous lake: Loch Ness. This impressive, sprawling ruin dates back to the early Middles Ages, and includes a large tower/keep (the Grant Tower), a gatehouse, and many smaller buildings. An earlier version of the castle was taken by the English in 1296, but the present castle dates from the early 1500s, when Clan Grant was given the site and charged with its upkeep and repairs. The last garrison at Urquhart was in 1689, after which it began to fall once more into disuse, with deliberate ruination in 1692. Built on the site of an ancient Pictish fort, it is likely Ireland’s St Columba visited here in 580 AD – and in fact, he is credited with the earliest written record of a Nessie sighting (though in the nearby River Ness, evidently). Urquhart Castle saw much military action. It was captured by the English in 1296, it was later held by the famous Robert the Bruce, and it was actually the only castle holdout against the English in the early 1300s. It changed hands (and alliances) many times over the next three centuries before becoming a “noble ruin” – a majestic and romantic ruin that was all the rage in the 19th an 20th centuries. Today, Urquhart is one of Scotland’s most popular castles. 

Pro tip: Located 17 miles from Inverness, it is a short (and picturesque) drive along Loch Ness. No car? You can grab Bus 919 or 917 from Inverness Bus Station (a short distance from the train station), and arrive at the castle in about 30-40 mins. If you arrive at the end of the day, note that they do not offer discounted entrance fees like most castles & museums. It’s best to leave about 1.5 hours to explore. There are also boat trips that can take you to the castle if you prefer that method.

More Castles: 

Storms on The Isle of Harris, Scotland

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Storms on The Isle of Harris, Scotland

Scotland is known for its weather. Not in the way that Spain is known for its weather (hot, sunny, predictable). Instead, Scotland is known for its dramatic storms and great winds – and no where has more dramatic storms than the islands. The Outer Hebrides in particular, as they are some of the most exposed parts of Scotland. Though a great many islands make up the Outer Hebrides, among the most famous are the Isles of Lewis and Harris. Technically one island (though don’t tell the Scottish), Harris is as different from Lewis as brie is from cheddar. While Lewis is mostly lowland with plenty of blog as well as the larger towns and villages, Harris is mostly highland, with a rugged, mountainous landscape and more remote than Lewis. Perhaps because of this remoteness, Harris also has some of the best coastalscapes in Europe. Luskentyre Beach is consistently rated one of the top in Scotland and beyond! Most visit during the summer, but the off season is when you’ll see the most dramatic storms – late autumn through winter and early spring. Though always a tough, dramatic place, Harris is certainly at its wildest during the short days early in the year. 

Pro tip: Be sure to pick up some Harris Tweed here. Not only is it local, it’s a wee bit cheaper here. Unlike other weaving brands, Harris Tweed has no factory – products are handwoven by individual certified weavers from their own workshops. If you want a factory though you can head to the place where they make Harris gin and maybe even get a taster – or a bottle!  

What Else to See on Lewis and Harris: 

Edinburgh Old Town, Scotland

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Edinburgh Old Town, Scotland

Cobblestones echo footsteps down the quaint backstreets just a stone’s throw from the vibrancy and cacophony that is the Royal Mile – and even closer, a pebble’s throw perhaps – is the loud and lively Grassmarket Square, a market square with roots stretching back through the centuries. Edinburgh is surely a great city. The capital of a nation with a strong national identity and encompassing the very definition of the “it’s complicated” relationship status with England and the greater UK (now more than ever, with Brexit looming on the horizons), Edinburgh is a proud city. It is one with a fascinating history shimmering through the centuries, always overlooked by the heaping stronghold that is Edinburgh Castle (surely one of the greatest castles in the United Kingdom). Edinburgh is a place that successfully manages to live in both the past and the present, and appreciates each fully. Everything from dress to pubs, from architecture to traditions, sweep the past into the present. And those who reside here – as well as the visitors – surely make quite a great (and loud!) effort to enjoy life in the present. And this is of course never truer than on the infamous Hogmannany Night – one of the world’s most famous ushering ins of each successive New Year. 

Pro tip: Going for Hogmannay? Plan well in advance – its Edinburgh’s busiest time of year. Perhaps you might instead consider visiting during the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, an annual festival that celebrates the arts with musicians, comedians, artists, writers and more all converging on ancient Edinburgh. Most years are held in August. 

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*Ramasy Gardens Lane 

Callanish Stones, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

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Callanish Stones

Callanish Stones, Outer Hebrides, Scotland

With hundreds of island, Scotland‘s fringes are both rugged and full of history. The Outer Hebrides contains some of the largest islands, including the isles of Lewis and Harris. It is on the Isle of Lewis in which you find one of Scotland’s most impressive stone circles, the Callanish Stones, which are famous the world over. Comprising of nearly 50 standing stones each weighing dozens of tonnes each, the stones were erected thousands years ago at the height of the Neolithic era, likely between 2,900 and 2,600 BC. The reasons the islanders went through such effort to quarry, lug and arrange so many stones is still a mystery today, though likely it was for ritualistic purposes – with their importance continuing onwards into the Bronze Age. The inner stones form a circle while the outer stones are in a cruciform shape, and at some point after its construction, a chambered tomb was added to the centre. It is not alone; there are nearby cairns and even other stone circles (for example, Callanish II is less complete but clearly larger in size). Perhaps it is the preserved nature of the stones that rank it high among Scottish Neolithic monuments, but regardless it is one of the most interesting places of all the Scottish isles. For those interested in learning more, there is also an interpretive centre on site, and the stones are a short walk from the centre. It is also popular with the so-called new pagans and druids, spotted here.

Pro tip: Nearby, jump slightly forward in Scotland’s ancient history to the Iron Age at the amazing Dun Carloway Broch.

More Neolithic Ruins

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Loch Coruisk, Scotland

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Lough Corrusk

Loch Coruisk, Scotland

Remote barely begins to describe a place that can only be reached by a boat or a 5-hour hike over rough terrain (and don’t you be thinking there’s a trail either!). Loch Coruisk is a remote lake on the Isle of Skye. Wait, isn’t the Isle of Skye really famous? Yes, but most people only go to the same few places, and even within Scotland‘s most popular island there are plenty of hidden corners. Encircled by a looming ring of the jagged Black Cuillin Mountains (not to be confused with the rounder Red Cuillins), this quiet lake is the picture of Scotland’s rugged beauty. Spot deer lounging in the grass, and seals down on the rocks by the sea as birds flit and flutter above your head. Get your feet a bit mucky as you squish through the boggy terrain that clutches at the shores of the lake. If you plan your trip well and you’re prepared for hiking, you should be able to circuit Loch Coruisk. If you’re less confident, just a hike along the shores and back is just as stunning!

Pro tip: Take the boat the Bella Jane to the lake. Or, if you want to hike there, you have the option of sleeping in bothies (a typically Scottish experience!). Keep your cameras out for seals – they are usually on the rocks just before the island – and deer, who sometimes hang around the dock area. 

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*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

Dun Carloway, Isle of Lewis, Scotland

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Dun Carloway

Dun Carloway, Isle of Lewis, Scotland

Dun Carloway is a broch. A broch, you might ask? A broch is a Scottish style Iron Age fort, structures that and found unanimously in Scotland. These are double-walled forts with narrow stairs following the contour of the fort in between the two layers of walls. The entranceway is low and narrow – in order to go force the invading enemy to get down and crawl into the fort, while the defenders pick them off one by one. Brochs date from roughly 100 BC to 100 AD, with Dun Carloway dating to about 1st century AD. Compared to other brochs, Dun Carloway is actually well-preserved. Located on the west coast of the windswept Isle of Lewis, Dun Carolway’s near-inhospitable setting is hauntingly beautiful and beautifully lonely. Amazingly, this Iron Age structure was in use through the 1600s – it wasn’t until the late 1800s that we know the building had become a ruin. That means Dun Carloway had 1,600 years of use! Not many buildings can claim a century, let alone more than a millennium! By 1882, Dun Carloway had become one of the first protected Scottish monuments. Today, it is a very cool site to visit while on the Isle of Lewis.

Pro tip: Nearby, you can also visit the amazing Callanish Standing Stones. If you’re into hiking, we recommend the lovely walk from Dalmore to Garenin (home to an interesting Blackhouse village reconstruction) – roughly 5km but over uneven ground, hiking boots recommended. 

More of Lewis & Harris

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home. 

The Bridge of Carrbridge, Scotland

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Carrbridge

The Old Packhorse Bridge of Carrbridge, Scotland

Historic, quaint and yet still lively, the wee village of Carrbridge is tucked into the Cairngorms, a massive mountain range and national park that encompasses much of the central Highlands. Though beautiful on its own, what really makes Carrbridge special is its bridge. Spanning the rushing currents of the River Dulnain, its name is a bit of a misnomer – it wasn’t built for cars, but instead for packhorses and foot traffic. The beautiful bridge of Carrbridge dates back to the early 18th century. Before the bridge was constructed, the villagers had no way to cross the river when it was flooded, meaning that the villagers could not get to the nearby Church of Duithil to bury their dead – and death waits for nothing, not even a flooded river. To solve this problem, the bridge was commissioned by Grant Clan chief Alexander Grant in 1717, and local mason John Niccelsone was dispatched to erect the bridge. The Old Packhouse Bridge of Carrbridge held for about a century, though flooding in throughout the late 1700s had a detrimental effect on it. The famous flood of 1829 left the bridge in its present state. Today, Carrbridge is an ideal spot for hikers, cyclists and adventurers to be based, as it is in the heart of the Cairngorms, it is connected to Inverness by train (less than 40 min journey) and it is a lovely wee spot, quieter than the more famed Aviemore, just one stop further down the rails!

Pro tip: Visit in October during the odd but intriguing Golden Spurtle Competition, an annual porridge making contest (yes, this is a real thing! And it’s the world championships…), or in September for the Carve Carrbridge chainsaw wood-carving event. Best access point is via Inverness. The Edinburgh train usually stops in Carrbridge, and there are a few simple but lovely B&Bs there, including the Craigellachie Guest House or the Cairn Hotel. 

More Nearby in Scotland

  • Aviemore (& its stone circle)
  • The Cairngorm Mountains NP
  • Mt Schiellion
  • Inverness

Aviemore Stone Circle, Scotland

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Aviemore stone circle Scotland

Aviemore Stone Circle, Scotland

Though happily hard to tell in the photo, the Aviemore Stone Circle is today actually in the middle of a modern housing estate, built up around this ancient site. Prehistoric stone circles are fairly common in Scotland and Ireland but despite how many of them remain, experts still don’t really know why ancient cultures built them or much about these people. Built by ancient peoples during the Neolithic era, the oldest stone circles are as much as 5,000 years old. The Aviemore Stone Circle, comprised of stones far smaller than the stones of more famous exemplars like the Ring of Brodgar or Callanish Stones (or Stonehenge down in England), can be dated as far back as 2,400 BC. The ancient people did not have a system of writing (at least, not that we know of), and other than their megalithic monuments, many of their artefacts were made of easily decomposable materials, so much of their culture is lost to us. But we do know that these Neolithic cultures, found in what are considered in modern times as the Celtic regions, built hundreds – thousands – of great ancient monuments of stone. We also know that they had complicated rituals, and that astrology was important to them. Today, the best Neolithic-era sites are found in Celtic places like Ireland, Scotland, England and Brittany.

Pro tip: Aviemore Stone Circle is in a housing estate a short walk from Aviemore Train Station. For the best Neolithic ruins in Scotland, head to the Orkney Isles (home of Skara Brae) or over to the Isle of Harris. Outside of Scotland, Ireland holds a treasure trove – head out for a walk in the fields of the woods and you’ll practically be stumbling over them.

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Rainbows above Luskentyre Beach, Scotland

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Luskentyre

Rainbows above Luskentyre Beach, Isle of Harris, Scotland

Exotic, desolate, wild, wonderful, timeless, unspoilt, empty – these are just a few adjectives that might buzz around your mind while travelling around Scotland’s Outer Hebrides islands. The Isle of Harris in particular is rugged and wild. Luskentyre Beach is perhaps one of Scotland’s most spectacular beaches – but getting here is no easy feat. Even once you’ve arrived in the Outer Hebrides (most likely by ferry from Ullapool, though there are flights to Stornaway too), you’ll have to traverse the sweeping bogs of the Isle of Lewis and the desolate mountains of the Isle of Harris before following a bumpy, narrow road to embark at Luskentyre Beach. Is it worth it? Hands down, the answer is yes! Voted Britain’s best beach, the white sands, azure waters and crescent shape look almost like a Mediterranean beach (just without the bathers!). It’s only the mild temperature and the rugged, craggy mountains rising up behind the beach that reminds us we aren’t on the Côte d’Azur! Add a full rainbow and a stunning sky – the calm before the storm – and you get utter perfection.

Pro tip: Talbert is a good base to explore Harris and Lewis. Visit the Harris Gin distillery while there, and do pick up some of the locally-woven Harris Tweed. The ferry from Ullapool – Stornaway takes 2.5 hours – see the summer timetable here – or explore their site for other options. 

More of Scotland

 

Eilean Donan Castle, Scotland

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Eliean Donan

Eilean Donan Castle, Scotland

Eilean Donan Castle currently holds the honour of being the most photographed (and Instagrammed) location in Scotland! But aside from its popularity on the screen, Eilean Donan Castle is a pretty incredible – and formidable – place. This medieval fortress is located on a small tidal island (most photos show it at high tide for maximum photogenic prowess but here it is at low tide). In fact, “Eilean” means “island” in Scots Gallic, and Donan refers to a martyred Celtic saint – the name might mean that there was a small monastic settlement in the spot in early Christian times, but that is unproven. Strategically located at a place where three sea lochs meet (Loch Duich, Loch Long and Loch Alsh), Eilean Donan was erected in the 13th century by Clan Mackenzie, one of the major players in the constant power struggle amongst the Highland clans. The castle stood intact until the early 1700s when the Mackenzie’s got involved in the infamous Jacobite Rebellions (a series of uprisings between 1688 and 1746 to return Catholic King James to the throne) and the castle was attacked and partially destroyed before being reconstructed in the 20th century. The castle started with just an enciente or fortified wall surrounding the island, perfect for guarding against Norse attacks. It later became property of the Mackenzie clan, even supposedly sheltering Robert the Bruce. The exterior wall was reduced in order to make more defensive structures, and a triangular courtyard or “horn” was added to increase the island’s defensiveness. Today the castle is rebuilt on the same groundwork as the medieval castle, though the details vary from the original. That said, it is one of Scotland’s most amazing and iconic locations!

Pro tip: From the castle, wander across the road to the wee village of Dornie. The castle makes for a good stop between Inverness and the Isle of Skye. 

Other Scottish Locations

 

Edinburgh Old Town, Scotland

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Edinburgh belhaven.jpg

Cockburn Street in Edinburgh Old Town, Scotland

Despite its unfortunate name, Cockburn Street is a lovely wee street that leads from Waverley Train Station in the New Town up into Edinburgh‘s spectacular Old Town. Much of the Old Town still follows its medieval street plan, comprised of a network of cobbled streets, narrow closes and wide avenues. Edinburgh’s Old Town is full of grander, glitz and history. Wander up to Royal Mile (High Street), marvel at the cathedrals, churches and museums, walk along grand buildings, watch street performers, duck into lively pubs and cosy cafes, before finally arriving at Edinburgh Castle, an idyllic fortification that perches on a huge crag formed by a now-extinct volcano. Alongside Edinburgh’s New Town (built in the 18th-19th century), Edinburgh’s city centre is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is the most significant cultural hub of Scotland. Because of limited space and advantage of living within the defensive wall (now gone), the Old Town became home to some of the world’s earliest “high rise” buildings as early as the 16th century. Though boasting certain advantages, the tightly-packed atmosphere was vulnerable to flames, and the Old Town is marked by the Great Fire of Edinburgh of 1824, which obliterated huge portions of buildings on the south side, and their rebuilding in Victorian times led to the accidental creation of numerous passages and vaults under the Old Town. Another blight on Edinburgh was the 20th century slum clearances, when the rundown, overpopulated slums of Canongate were cleared out in the 1950s to make room for grander buildings. Despite these darker elements of Edinburgh’s past, the Edinburgh of today is a busy, lively and fun place to be.

Pro tip: Looking for a wool or tweed souvenir? Avoid the shops on High Street as unfortunately a lot of that is made in China these days. You can’t go wrong with traditional Harris Tweed, made solely on the Isle of Harris in the Outer Hebrides and with each weaver certified to the brand’s high standards.

More of Scotland

 

Luskentyre, Isle of Harris, Scotland

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Lusketyre Harris house.jpg

Luskentyre, Isle of Harris, Scotland

The Isle of Harris feels like the end of the world. And that’s saying something, because Scotland is already a remote place. To get from Edinburgh to this forgotten corner of Harris, it’ll take you at least 3 hours to Inverness, another hour and a half to the ferry at Ullapool, at least 2 hours on the boat, and another hour or more to reach Luskentyre. Lonely, windswept and overlooked, Luskentyre feels very much like land’s end, despite its beautiful beach. It’s hard to imagine humans living here, and yet they did, and they do. You’ll still see evidence of olden day crofts – narrow strips of land provided to poor farmers for subsistence farming. Evidence too of middens (ancient piles of discarded seashells) and lazy beds (beds of kelp used to make vaguely fertile earth which, despite their name, was backbreaking work). Further north on the Isle of Lewis, find an ancient stone circle made of giant monoliths impressive enough to rival Stonehenge, Iron Age brochs (defensive structures), long-forgotten lighthouses, and the remains of blackhouses, named so from the staining they sustained from peat smoke. From the gentle rolling bogs of Lewis to the rugged mountains of Harris, this place feels inhospitable yet hauntingly beautiful. Today, there are small villages scattered about Lewis and Harris, and about 21,000 people still call these remote, connected islands home.

Pro tip: Talbert is a great base to explore the Isle of Harris. Get yourself some Harris Tweed, head over to Harris Distillery, and then hop off to hike the Hebrides. Up for a challenge? Try summiting An Clishan, the highest in the Outer Hebrides. Or something easier? Hike from Dalmore Beach to Garenin Village. Or walk along stunning Luskentyre Beach! 

Other Stunning Places in Scotland

 

Butt of Lewis Lighthouse, Scotland

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Lewis lighthouse.jpg

Butt of Lewis Lighthouse, the Hebrides, Scotland

Get this. The windiest place in the UK…is called The Butt (cue endless jokes about the Butt being very windy…)! The Butt of Lewis (confusingly located at the northernmost point of the Isle of Lewis in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides) is a lonely and windswept headland home to a solitary lighthouse. Constructed in the 1860s, this unusual red-brick lighthouse was inhabited by a lighthouse keeper until 1998 when it was automated. Lighthouse keeping was a lonely existence. Being stationed on the comparatively large and civilised Isle of Lewis wouldn’t have been too bad – nearby villages such as Ness, Borve and Barvas kept keepers provided with fresh supplies and news. However, lighthouse keepers on small, uninhabited islands lived a desolate and difficult existence. The most famous case was that of the Flannan Isles Lighthouse, located on a rock pinnacle off the coast of Lewis. In December of 1900, 3 lighthouse keepers were prevented from returning to land after their long shift. When a boat finally arrived, incomers found a desolate and deserted island, wreaked by a violent storm. One coat still hung on its peg, iron railings and railroad tracks were mangled and uprooted, and a crate of equipment ruined… with no one to be seen. The logbooks – not updated for a week – note that the men had been acting strange (hardworn mariners noted as struck silent dumb, crying, and praying) during a terrible storm that supposedly raged for 3 days. The strangest part? The island could be seen from Lewis and ships had sailed the Hebrides waters…but no storm had been recorded. (Goosebumps, anyone?) Even after years of searching for them and the truth of what happened Dec. 15th, 1900, nothing has been uncovered. Conspiracy theorists will say anything from madness to pirates to aliens, though a rogue wave is probably the most likely answer (two men swept off when securing the equipment, the third as he attempted to help or warn the others). But we’ll probably never know – and now that the forlorn lighthouses such as the Butt of Lewis and Flannan Isle are automated, the saga of lonely lighthouse keepers is at an end, keeping their secrets with them.

Pro tip: Take great care when visiting the Butt of Lewis – it is VERY windy. Secure anything at risk of being blown away (hats, scarves, glasses) before approaching. For those who wish, there is a 3-4km coastal walk from Eoropie Beach to the Butt of Lewis. Flannan Isle is hard to get to – if it’s a must-see for you, try with Seatrek. 

Other Wild & Rugged European Coastlines

 

Cairngorms National Park, Scotland

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The Cairngorms National Park, Highlands, Scotland

One of only two national parks in Scotland, the Cairngorms National Park – part of the famous Scottish Highlands – is also the UK’s largest at 4,528 km2 (1,748 sq m). Interestingly, despite Scotland’s vast and wild landscapes, the Cairngorms, along with Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, are Scotland’s only official national parks (the Isle of Skye is just scratching the surface – think more so the Isles of Staffa, Lewis or Harris, Assynt, Knoydart or Torridon for true Scottish wilderness). A dual tourism season destination, the Cairngorms Mountains are equally renowned for hiking and mountain biking in the summer as they are for skiing and snowboarding in the winter. The Cairngorms also contain Scotland’s second-highest peak, Ben MacDui ; as it clocks in at 1,344m, Ben Macdui is considered a munro (meaning over 1,000m high). Located in the central Highlands, the best jumping-off point would be the quaint and sporty town of Aviemore, about 40 minutes south of Inverness.

Pro tip: get up early to explore the mountains bathed in early morning sunlight and avoid other visitors to the region. An easy way to explore the backcountry of the northern Cairngorms is on the Speyside Way. 

Other Great Places to Hike in Europe

 

Inverness Castle, Scotland

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Inverness Castle - Scotland

Inverness Castle, Scotland

The city that feels a bit like its at the end of the world, Inverness is a small cosmopolitan outpost in northern Scotland. Crowned with Inverness Castle, the city – and castle – cling to the banks of the River Ness. This relatively new castle was only built in 1836, but it sits on the roots of what was originally an 11th century castle. Today’s castle is built in the neo-gothic style, though the former castle was a proper medieval lump of stone. It’s not open to the public today for good reason: it is currently home to the Inverness Sherif Court (Scotland’s civil and criminal court).  That said, you can visit the Castle Viewpoint for a bird’s eye view of Inverness from the top of the building (admission £5). Though the interior of the castle is closed, the exterior is an emblem of Inverness. It’s also certainly a worth to climb to the top of the castle hill to enjoy the view over Inverness and beyond! Fun fact: find Inverness Castle on one side of certain £50 RBS banknotes.

Pro Tip: Keep going past the castle along the river to follow forest trails through the Ness Islands. Hungry? You’ll definitely have to check out the delicious menu at The Kitchen Brasserie, less than 5 minutes walk from the Castle. Book lovers will love the magnificent Leakey’s Bookshop located in an old church! Looking for music? Try Hootananny for a pint and traditional music!

Find Other Castles in Europe

 

Inverness, Scotland

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Inverness River, Scotland

Inverness, River Ness, Scotland

The jewel of the north, Inverness is known as the city that crowns the shores of Loch Ness, famed home to the mythically elusive monster Nessie. Despite this claim to fame, few visit the compact Scottish city, and even fewer appreciate it. The official gateway to the Scottish Highlands, the northern-ness of Inverness gives you the feeling of being at the ends of Earth’s civilisation (it’s the UK’s northernmost city). Small enough to visit in a day, Inverness is one of Europe’s fastest growing cities. It is ranked 5th out of nearly 200 British cities for best quality of life as well as Scotland’s 1st (and the UK’s 2nd) happiest city; being collectively happy seems to be a northern thing as Denmark, Sweden and Norway also often rank at the top of world lists. As you wander the streets of Inverness, there’s certain familiar British-ness (e.g. Boots, Cafe Nero, WH Smiths and Tesco’s…) but at the same time, something resoundly Scottish. Start at the majestic Leakey’s Bookshop and follow the River Ness past the ancient churches and over bouncing bridges, past the modern castle on the hill as the rivers weaves and twines its way towards the long and narrow Loch Ness. Long before you arrive, you’ll stumble across a series of long and narrow islands – the Ness Isles – a 3 mile (5k) forested loop fringed by the quiet river – a place just perfect for a stroll or a jog in the fresh air of any season! Oh and by the way, Macbeth is from here! Or rather, his real life 11th century counterpart was. 

Pro tip: Inverness Train/Bus Station is in the city centre. The airport is an easy 25 minute bus ride – get bus 11A from Marks & Spenser’s. There are Loch Ness half day boat tours for those wishing to see the lake and ruins of Urquhart Castle. Looking for quick, yummy food? Try the Filling Station by the train station for hearty comfort food. 

More Great Places to Visit in Scotland

 

Loch Clair & Torridon, Scotland

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Hiking Torridon Hills, Loch Clair, Beinn Eighe Mountain

Views of Beinn Eighe aross Loch Clair, Torridon Hills, Scotland

The Scottish Highlands are a romantic yet desolate place. Hiking in these remote hills feels a bit like being at the edge of the world. Beautiful, amazing, alone. Snuggled deep within the forgotten Northwest Highlands, the village of Torridon clings to the shores of Loch Torridon. The region is full of places to muddy your boots and whet your imagination – one of which is the little Loch Clair, where an off-the-beaten-path trail circumnavigates the lake, giving views over Beinn Eighe and other peaks of the Torridon Hills. Other peaks in the Torridon Hills include Liathach and Beinn Alligin, all of which are known to climbers, hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. This is the kind of place to get lost. Not lost in the sense of “send the mountain rescue helicopters!” but lost as in a place you can get lost in your thoughts, daydreams and nature. This is a place where the romantic poets and landscape painters of the world would feel at home, a place where the 21st century has yet to find, where mud-plastered boots, Nordic walking poles and Gore-Tex hiking gear is the style.

Pro tip: To hike Loch Clair, head west on the A896 from Torridon for 15 minutes until you hit the Loch Clair car park on the left; the trailhead is across the road. Follow the rugged Loch Clair shores for magnificent lake and mountain views and stunning silence – best viewed during the famous Golden Hour!

More Places to Hike in Europe
  1. Mt Schiehallion, Central Scottish Highlands
  2. Diamond Hill, Connemara, Ireland
  3. Les Calanques, southern France
  4. Mt Kronplatz, Italian Dolomites
  5. Tatras Mountains, Polish & Slovakian border
  6. Col Vert, French Alps
  7. Val de Susa, Italian Alps
  8. Gauja River Valley, Latvia

 

Dunnattor Castle, Scotland

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Dunnattor Castle - Stonehaven - Aberdeen Scotland

Dunnattor Castle, Scotland

Rough and rugged, clinging to a pointed cliff, perchaed atop a low peninsula jutting out into the ocean, Dunnattor Castle is certainly one of the most eye-catching castles of northern Europe. Located on the Scottish Coast near Stonehaven village and south of the sprawling silver metropolis that is Aberdeen, Dunnattor Castle is best approached on foot. Hiking from Stonehaven, take the back alleyways and countryside path that rises behind the village, eventually depositing you in the emerald grass of Scotland’s countryside. Walk between the rolling country hills and sheer coastal drops with fluffy sheep for company, past the Somme War Memorial before turning a bend after about 3 km to see the distant peninsula crowned with its castellated turrets. Dunnattor Castle dates back to the 15th century, and once even hid the Scottish crown jewels from the invading Cromwell army during the 17th century. Take your time exploring the castle as well as its hidden coves and beaches as you listen to the crash of the waves on the foot of the cliff. Whether gazing at this medieval fortress from above or below, it’s clear that it is an extraordinary feat of architectural imagination and engineering!

Other Amazing Castles in Europe To Explore
  1. Kreuzenstein Castle, Austria
  2. Bratislava Castle, Slovakia
  3. Castillo Xativa, Spain 
  4. Malbork Castle, Poland
  5. Vajahunyad Castle in Budapest, Hungary
  6. Turaida Castle, Latvia
  7. Hohenschwangau Castle, Germany
  8. Chateau de la Batisse, France

 

Ruins in the Highlands, Scotland

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A Ruined Village in the Highlands, Scotland

‘By the wee birchen corries lie patches of green
Where gardens and bare-headed bairnies have been,
But the huts now are rickles of stone, nettle-grown,
And the once human homes, e’en their names are unknown.’

-Anonymous Victorian poet upon looking over nearby Loch Rannoch

Multiple reasons could account for any of the dozens of abandoned settlements in Scotland’s Highlands. Forced evictions, changing economies, harsh living conditions, changes in animal behaviour or soil richness, new weather patterns, or the industrial revolution are but a few. Reasons for this particular settlement’s abandonment are unknown. The trail to Mt Schiehallion (the ‘Fairy Hill of the Caledonians’) which overlooks Loch Rannoch snakes its way up and past this little village – today little more than a picturesque ruin. Though most people amble by it with little more than a quick photo, it serves one to stop and give it a little respect – those little ruins were once someone’s house, and one day, your house may be little more than a pile of rocks. Though sad, such is the way of things. Even buildings have a circle of life.

Find Other Beautiful Ruins in Europe
  1. Roman Ruins in Aosta, Italy
  2. The Ruined Kenilworth Castle, England
  3. Crumbling Castle of St Andrews, Scotland
  4. Roman Amphitheater in Lyon, France
  5. Lost Ruins of Krimulda Castle in a Forest in Latvia