Basque Country, Spain

Posted on 02/04/2023 by Alba Marie

Basque Country, Spain

Such an unusual place, Basque Country. Straddling two countries – Spain and France – with a language and a culture apart from the rest of the Europe, Basque Country (also called País Vasco, pays basque or Euskal Herria in the Basque language) is one of the most unique and otherworldly places on this ancient continent. It’s not a big place – just over 20,900 km² (about 8,000 sq mi) it has a population of three million, and contains a few famous cities like Bilbao, Pamplona, San Sebastian, Bayonne and Biarritz. As with Irish Gaelic in Ireland or Welsh in Wales, historically the oppressive national governments tried hard to eradicate the local culture, language and identity. It was successful, too, for awhile. But like Ireland and Wales, Basque has seen a resurgence of its own language and culture, likely owing – at least somewhat – to its partial cultural and political autonomy. Unrelated to other European languages and reputed to be among the most complex, Basque is now recognised as an official language alongside Spanish, and is spoken in some governmental, educational and daily settings. That said, out of the 3 million residents, only 650,000 speak Basque (the majority live in Spain; just 100,000 live over the border in France). With its coastline forming a UNESCO geopark, Basque Country has more to offer than a storied past and a complicated language. Miles upon miles of rugged coastline carved by the ravaging Atlantic, the Basque coast is gauged, grazed and torn, home to rough cliffs, stratified layers and hidden coves. According to UNESCO, the Basque Coast comprises sedimentary rocks from the upper Triassic Period (215 million years old) to the Middle Eocene Epoch (45 million years old), marking an impressive continuous record of 60 million years of geological history, including a layer marked by last cataclysmic event – the one that famously killed the dinosaurs. One hasto admit, it’s a pretty cool place.

Tip: If you’re visiting Spain’s Basque Country, don’t miss the extraordinary monastery of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe. Take the bus to the coastal town of Bakio and walk the the rest of the way (about 8km round trip) for incredible coastal views.

Explore Coastal Spain

Church in Isla, Spain

Posted on 15/02/2022 by Alba Marie

Church in Isla, Spain

The wee village of Isla is located in the little-known region of Cantabria of northern Spain. Most visitors to Spain are seeking sun and sand. These type of tourists are mostly are drawn to places such as Andalucia, leaving the northern coasts along the Bay of Biscay mostly free of the generic and unfortunate British resort that invade the southern coasts. Places like Isla – and Cantabria in general – are visited largely by local Spanish visitors. Isla is a tiny village split into two parts – the elevated and historic Isla pueblo, and the coastal Isla playa, sitting along the beaches of the Cape of Quejo. Unsurprisingly, the beautiful Church of San Julián y Santa Basilisa stands proud at the centre of Isla pueblo. This building dates from 1629, and is one of the most beautiful examples of this type of church in Cantabria, with a stunning Baroque altarpieces. It has a remarkable bell tower, a beautiful 19th century organ, and remains one of the best examples of “classical” architecture in Cantabria. Isla is small – just one such village among many, many ancient towns and villages – but is lovely all the same. Because of Cantabria’s microclimate, the surrounding countryside is surprisingly lush and verdant, perfect for getting out and about.

Tip: You can visit the Church of San Julián y Santa Basilisa during mass on Sundays or during most summer days. Biking through the region and taking in coasts and villages is a lovely way to take in this part of Spain. Pack a picnic, plan a route through a few areas of interest, and set out to explore!

Discover Northern Spain

The Basque Coast, Spain

Posted on 15/12/2021 by Alba Marie

The Basque Coast of Northern Spain

Most people hear “Spain” and they think of dry deserts, fancy beach resorts, white villages and the lively streets of Barcelona and Madrid. But in truth, Northern Spain is like a whole other country. Tucked along the Bay of Biscay, the weather is vastly different in the north than in the central and southern parts of the country, and the coasts are also very different than the Mediterranean coasts. In fact, some locals half-jokingly refer to it as “the Ireland of SpainAnd all of that is before you even get to Basque Country. If you thought you were being clever by brushing up on your Spanish before heading to the Basque region (capital is Bilbao), you’ll be in for a surprise. The predominant language and culture here is not Spanish. Instead, locals speak a complex language not related to any other European language (except in the loosest terms). Ready for Basque? “Ongi etorri Euskal Herrira!” (That’s “Welcome to Basque Country”!). Luckily, most residents speak English and Spanish too, but it can be jarring to drive over the border and see signs written in such complex letter combinations! Regardless, Basque Country is home to many charms, like Bilbao and its bizarre Guggenheim Museum, the seastack topped with the monastery San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, San Sebastian, Vitoria-Gasteiz and its famous cathedral (inspiring Ken Follett’s cathedral saga), natural parks like Gorbeia, Urkiola, and Izki, not to mention the region’s vineyards, epic coastlines and medieval villages.

Tip: Though the region itself is far from the coast, visitors might like to taste wines from the Rioja Alaves region. Not sure what or where to eat? Check out this interactive site which can help you find your next culinary adventure in Basque Country.

Visit in Northern Spain:

Zahara Alleyways, Andalucia, Spain

Posted on 05/01/2021 by Alba Marie

Zahara Alleyways, Andalucia, Spain

The Andalucia region of Spain is an ancient sunburnt land of magic, wonder, and bubonic beauty. Spain – and southern Spain in particular – is a place of delight and optimism; a country that values food and family, relaxation, beauty and the good life. Large yet rural, Andalucia is sprinkled with hilltop villages and charming towns tucked under the jagged peaks of the Sierra Nevadas. Zahara de la Sierra is just one of the many pueblos blancos of the region – though it is a particular favourite. We travel to explore, to learn, to experience, to grow, but we also travel to enjoy life, and there’s no better place to kick back and appreciate the good things in life at the slow pace of a Spanish village. From fresh markets to cosy local restaurants and buzzing piazzas, picturesque streets, cheerful people, beautiful flowers spilling over every window box of the village and even a romantic medieval castle, the tiny, joyful village of Zahara is heaven on Earth and the perfect place to escape from the business of the modern world.

Pro tip: Ronda is a brilliant (and breathtaking) town and the perfect base while visiting the region. We recommend visiting some of the local food markets to taste the most delicious and local wares.

More Charming Villages

Sagunto Castle & Theatre

Posted on 03/12/2020 by Alba Marie

Sagunto Castle & Theatre

A short distance to the north of Valencia is the town of Sagnuto. In a way, it’s a duel village – Puerto de Sagunto is the newer town on the coast, while Sagunto, 6 km inland, is the old town. Perhaps old isn’t the right word – quite ancient would be more accurate. In fact, at the heart of Sagunto, there is a Roman amphitheatre and what is left of an ancient forum. And just above the theatre there is a beautiful medieval castle lining the hilltop. In the village below there is a labyrinth of narrow streets, pretty squares and brightly-painted houses. Founded around 219 BC as the Roman city of Saguntum, the local colonists sided with Rome against its great enemy Carthage (modern-day Tunisia). This provoked the infamous Second Punic War but later Saguntum was rebuilt into a grand and prosperous city, including a new theatre that could fit up to 8,000 spectators. (Contemporary texts suggest that the population of 50,000; only slightly smaller than today’s 65,000). While the vestiges of an acropolis, forum and the Temples of Artemis and Aphrodite still survive to some extent, it is the amphitheatre that is the star of the town, and has been largely restored in modern times. Also on the hilltop (part of the Sierra Calderona mountains), is Sagunto Castle, a massive stone fortress that is a mix of Roman, Moorish and medieval origins. Perhaps most impressive are the great curtain walls, dating from the Islamic period. And down in the town centre, find a patchwork of bright facades, cheerful restaurants, lively plazas and tiny bakeries full of delicious goodies. For a small, little-known town, this is place surely packs a bundle.

Pro tip: You’ll get great views from the Porta d’Almenara, overlooking the castle. Tucked under the castle, there are a network of little footpaths and it’s easy enough to find a quiet place to escape from the world – with a great bird’s-eye view of the town, of course!

Visit Eastern Spain

Cantabria’s Coast, Spain

Posted on 18/03/2020 by Alba Marie

Cantabria’s Coast, Spain

Northern Spain is more than just Basque Country and the Santiago del Compostella. The small region of Cantabria isn’t the place most tourists want to go – or have even heard of. Compared to the rest of Spain, Cantabria’s weather is far more mild and its climate is temperate. The rains come more often, and the scenery is a lot more green (in fact, it is part of a region nicknamed “Green Spain”)! Cantabria is home to a beautiful coastline along the Bay of Biscay. It has a mountains – offshoots of the Pyrenees – cliffs, lakes, valleys and of course beaches, and therefore perfect for travellers who want to get outdoors. Besides its greenery and serenity, the small region of Cantabria is known for its ancient archeological sites from the Upper Palaeolithic era, including almost a dozen caves full of paintings, with the most famous is the Cave of Altamira known for their ancient cave paintings near the beautiful cobbled village of Santillana del Mar. In fact, these caves are actually protected by UNESCO! Cantabria may be small and off most people’s radar, but there is so much to do here. Rent kayaks to explore the hidden coves, head to places like the Faro de Caballo for some cliff diving, try ancient cider recipes in Santillana del Mar, get bikes and discover the winding country lanes, taste the world-famous anchovies of Santoña, summit mountains like the Pico Del Monte Buciero near Santoña – or any of the other of dozens of peaks!

Pro tip: This is the kind of place you want to be outdoors – make sure you bring lots of outdoor clothes and hiking boots! Do visit some of the wee villages like Santoña, Santillana del Mar, Isla and more.

Visit Northern Spain

*Please note that all photos posted since the start of the Pandemic travel restrictions are from the archives, or taken locally within a short distance of our home.

Toledo Panorama, Spain

Posted on 20/11/2019 by Alba Marie

Toledo Panorama, Spain

Not far from Madrid, Toledo is an easy and beautiful day trip from Spain’s capital city. Holy Roman emperor Charles V established his court here in Toledo in the 16th century, giving the city its nickname, the “Imperial City.” Toledo is a city that has given birth to kings and queens, nobles and commoners alike – even the famed artist El Greco comes from this desert gem. Toledo is a place with a long heritage, vastly effected by its mix of the three dominating cultures of the Iberian Peninsula: Christianity, Islam and Judaism – not to mention functioning as the Visigoth Capital from 542 – 725 AD. In existence since before Roman times, it is little wonder that this desert city was recognised by UNESCO. Wander the lovely streets, casting your eye at the diverse architecture inspired by its various cultures before heading to the very top of the city for a terrific panoramic view of Toledo and its surroundings. Neither small nor large, Toledo is easy enough to explore on foot (if you don’t mind hills and steep roads!), but nor is it too small to get bored.

Pro tip: Perhaps you might want to try some tapas or paella while you’re here! Toledo has many small family-run restaurants in which to do so. Wear sturdy shoes – the streets are cobbled, uneven and sometimes steep. Trains run hourly from Puerta de Atocha station in Madrid, with a 30 minute duration. Check Renfe’s website for more info.

More Madrid Day Trips

The Arab Baths of Ronda, Spain

Posted on 26/09/2019 by Alba Marie

The Arab Baths of Ronda, Spain

Alongside the amazing Puente Nuevo on the cliffs of Ronda, the Arab Baths are among Ronda‘s most impressive and fascinating sights. At first glance, they seem a look a lot like Roman baths – and indeed the builders were inspired by the design long perfected by the ingenious Roman architects. The main difference here is that instead of hot water heated from below, the baths the Moors built used steam sweat out pollutants from the body. The Arab Baths of Ronda were built by the Moors, a conquering culture on the Iberian Peninsula that originated in North Africa, changing the architectural and cultural landscape of modern-day Spain and Portugal. For the Moors, the baths were built for sanitary reasons but also as for religious ‘purification’ purposes. At one time, Ronda used to be full of Moorish (or Mudejar) architecture, from mosques to Medinas to fortified walls and bridges, though little remains now. Today, Ronda is a wonderful town right in the heart of Andalucia, a perfect base for exploring all of those picturesque pueblos blancos.

Pro tip: Visiting the Baths at night adds as extra atmospheric element and sets the scene for some lovely photos. Also – it will be cooler and there are far less tourists about! These days, the Arab Baths are open until 19h00 on weekdays (closing at 15h on weekends) and cost €3 to enter. Sometimes they are open later.

More of Andalucia

Islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, Spain

Posted on 22/08/2019 by Alba Marie

Islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, Spain

Probably most famous for its role on HBO hit Game of Thrones (part of Dragonstone), the craggy islet of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe – meaning the Rock Castle from the Basque language – is perhaps one of Europe’s most fascinating and fantastical monuments. With its picture-perfect monastery perched perilously at the top of a formidable rock pinnacle, its not hard to see why San Juan de Gaztelugatxe was chosen as a location in the fantasy land of Westeros. Narrowly perched on the Bay of Biscay deep in Basque Country, the sea crashes endlessly at the islet, eroding away at the rocks. After a long walk to the island, across the causeway and up the rough-worn stairs, you arrive at the monastery or hermitage. This little building, dangling 80 metres above the sea, is dedicated to John the Baptist, and dates back to the 9th and 10th centuries and is the final resting place of medieval monks. Its location was long considered strategic and played a role in several battles – the place where the Lord of Biscay confronted the King of Castille in the mid 14th century, the site of a sacking from Huguenots (Protestants persecuted in France) from La Rochelle, an 18th century English raid and even a naval battle during the horrific Spanish Civil War. Despite its tragic history, today San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a place of great mystique and wonder – not to mention an amazing place for budding photographers!

Pro tip: This place was busy pre-Game of Thrones and the fantasy series will only continue making it more popular. Avoid the crowds (and the heat!) as best as possible by visiting in the off season, or early in the day. Get the most out of your visit by hiking from Bakkio town along the coast.

Castle of Zahara de la Sierra, Spain

Posted on 16/08/2019 by Alba Marie

Castillo de Zahara de la Sierra in Andalucia, Spain

Andalucia is a dry, sunburnt land in the south of Spain. The region is among Spain’s largest and most populous regions, with small communities spread out over a blanket of brown hills, jagged mountains and rolling fields. Many such communities are part of the Pueblos blancos or ‘white villages’ of Andalucia, picture-perfect villages beloved by tourists. This particular pueblo blanco, Zahara de la Sierra, is tucked away in the Sierra Nevada mountains and overlooked by the Castillo de Zahara de la Sierra. The castle dates back to the Moorish era of Spain. During the early Middle Ages, Spain was inhabited by the Moors, broadly defined as muslims originally from the Maghreb living in southern Europe, who greatly influenced Spanish art and architecture and even language (Andalucia, for example, comes from Al-Andalus) until finally being driven out completely by the 1490s. Very little remains of this once-impressive fortification in the village of Zahara. Today, all that’s left are the vestiges of a few walls and a signal tower, which, once climbed, will provide stunning views of the cheery white-washed walls and orange roofs of Zahara, the azure waters of the local reservoir, the sun-kissed chocolate-coloured fields hugging the village, all the way out to other nearby villages. Though beautiful, it is evident to see why this may not always have been an easy place to live. The castle, and the village below it, is carved into a rugged, rocky outcrop, with heights ranging from 300m to 1100m, and the village’s name “zahara” comes from “sahra” meaning desert. The seemingly-romantic sun-kissed fields, rocky outcrops and windswept panoramas may be seem idyllic today, but life in such a dry and remote place (it’s 100 km from the sea after all) wouldn’t always have been so perfect!

Pro tip: There’s a lovely wee restaurant with a comfortable terrace perfect for people-watching called El Rincon De La Ermita.

More Places to Visit in Spain’s Countryside

Santillana del Mar Archway, Spain

Posted on 09/07/2019 by Alba Marie

Santillana del Mar Archway, Spain

Though not actually located on the sea despite its name, Santillana del Mar is one of northern Spain’s loveliest hidden spots. In fact, it is nicknamed the ‘Town of Three Lies’ as it is not on the sea (mar), nor is it flat (llana) or a saint (santo). More accurately, the name is a slightly-mangled derivation or Santa Juliana, whose final resting place is tucked away here in an ancient monastery. The cultural hub of Cantabria, don’t expect to have this medieval masterpiece to yourself – not that that diminishes from the sheer beauty or culinary pleasures! A medieval marvel, Santillana del Mar is a charming stone village in the north of Spain that exudes beauty on every street. Known for its cider, Santillana del Mar, like most of Spain, is a place to slow down, relax, and enjoy the finer things in life such as food, drink, fresh air, sunshine and conversation. Whether you’re people watching, spending time with friends or loved ones, or simply admiring the architecture, Santillana is a place to lose yourself, leaving the busy real world behind.

Pro tip: Just outside of the town is the famed Altamira Cave Painting site, rich with prehistoric art. And as stated above, be sure to try some of Santillana del Mar’s local cider while in town!

Other Great Places to Visit in Northern Spain

The Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao, Spain

Posted on 07/06/2019 by Alba Marie

The Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao, Spain

The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain conjures up images of a strange and futuristic community, a space-age society perhaps found in the cartoonish Meet the Jetsons or the comedic Fifth Element. Certainly among of Europe’s strangest architectural icons, the Guggenheim was designed by futuristic Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry who was encouraged to “design something daring,” and adorned with artwork such as Puppy (a giant dog made of flowers), and large metallic balloon animals created by American artist Jeff Koons. Erected in 1997, the Guggenheim Museum houses a collection of modern and contemporary art as part of both permanent and revolving exhibitions across various medias. Bilbao may seem like an odd place for such a museum. Built in the seedy, dilapidated docks district of Bilbao, the Guggenheim Museum was commissioned by the Basque government as a way to bring tourism into this little-visited region, rejuvenating not only the now-abandoned docks but also the under-appreciated Basque country. Today, it routinely makes lists of most important and admired contemporary buildings not just in Spain or Europe, but worldwide.

Pro tip: At €17, the entrance fee is quite steep – be sure to check out what exhibitions and/or specific activities are on at the Guggenheim before your visit.

Other Contemporary European Architecture

Terracotta Rooftops of Peñíscola, Spain

Posted on 04/03/2019 by Alba Marie

Terracotta Rooftops of Peñíscola, Spain

Orange roofs contrast against the deep azures of the Mediterranean and the whitewashed walls of the fairy-tale houses crowding the narrow streets of medieval Peñíscola. Beautiful, curved (oft handmade) terracotta roof tiles are perhaps one of the images most associated with Spain and its hard not to conjure up images glasses of tinto de verano and sangria, massive plates of Valencian paella, and delicious tapas when you see roofs such as these! The little medieval town of Peñíscola clings desperately to the sea, encircled by walls and containing a labyrinth of weaving streets, tiny alleys and jumbled plazas – crowned by the squat castle in the centre. Sometimes called the Gibraltar of Valencia – or locally as “The City in the Sea” – Peñíscola is a fortified city built onto on an easily-defensible headland that juts into the sea. The 13th castle was erected by none other than the infamous Knights Templar (our friends who also built Segovia‘s Church Vera Cruz) – and it is from here that one enjoys the epic panorama of city and sea.

Pro tip: Aside from wandering the lovely streets, be sure to visit the castle, lighthouse, bateria, and House of Shells. There are several nice terrases for sangria or “tapas and caña” (tapas, or small plates of food, that accompany a glass of beer).

Other Beautiful Places in Spain:

Faro de Caballo, Cantabria, Spain

Posted on 26/02/2019 by Alba Marie

Faro de Caballo (Horse Lighthouse), Cantabria, Spain

Cantabria is a little-visited region on Spain’s north coast. Though on one side of the region is Basque Country and Bilbao, and the other, the famous Santiago del Compostela, few people know of the region’s existence much less add Cantabria to their Spanish itinerary. It is an out-of-the-way place categorised by mild temperatures, regular rainfall, quiet harbours and green hills. The ocean is the region’s constant companion, supporting a bustling fishing industry – notably, the anchovies of Santoña, which are world-renowned. Not far from Santoña is the rugged Monte Buciero on a spit of land that juts out into the Cantabrian Sea. At the end of the point, at the bottom of hundreds of steps carved into rugged rocky pinnacles is the squat little Faro de Caballo (Horse Lighthouse). Erected in 1863 on this forlorn outcrop of the Spanish coastline, the steps and foundations of the Faro de Caballo were placed there by prisoners of Santoña’s jail. From the 1800s to 1993, the light of Faro de Caballo shone through the waters, warning ships of the Cantabrian Coast. Today, the Faro de Caballo is part of the Las Marisma de Santoña, Victoria and Joyel Nature Park. To get there, start your hike in Santoña and walk along the coast, passing the forts of San Martin and San Carlos and following the rough path through the woods until you arrive at the steep staircase (the route is said to have some 600-700 steps, so wear good shoes!). Be sure you bring your swimming gear as well, as there are several diving ledges of varying heights as well as a swinging rope for the less-adventurous!

Pro tip: The whole hike from Santoña is about 7km, though there is another way (from the other side of the peninsula, by Berria Beach – though I feel that it is more accessible from Santoña. Don’t try to kayak there from Santoña unless there are low winds and you’re an experienced kayaker, as the winds past the headland on the way back can be rough; better to access the lighthouse on foot, bringing all necessary swimming or snorkelling gear with you!

Other cool places in Northern Spain:

Church of Vera Cruz, Segovia, Spain

Posted on 05/02/2019 by Alba Marie

Church of Vera Cruz in Segovia, Spain

Unique, isn’t it? This squat, sunburnt little Romanesque tower and 12-sided polygon of a church on the outskirts of Segovia is impressive – and not the least because it dates back to the Middle Ages – the 13th century in fact. And who founded it? Why, none other than the infamous Knights Templar! More simply called “The Templars,” were a Catholic military organisation founded in 1139 by the pope. Most people know that they are closely tied to the Crusades to the Holy Land but what is less known is that they became very wealthy and therefore very powerful due to their role involved in the Christian bourse. Though the Templars are among some of the most skilled fighters of the Middle Ages (a fact that modern day video game Assassin’s Creed has exploited), roughly 90% of their order weren’t fighters. While the combatants where wrestling for the Holy Land, the non-combatants were slowly making a power play. It was they who put in place the economic infrastructure such as banking, loans, investments and the creation of landed estates (essentially paving the way for feudalism, and one might argue, capitalism) – all of only made them more rich. Part of their money went to building shrines to their movement – churches dedicated to the Holy Land they held so dear. One such place was the Church of Vera Cruz – a fantastic example of the kind sanctuary they perfected and how it differs from later churches. In fact, scripture from the Holy Land is inscribed at the alter of this little Spanish church. However, the Templars’ reign was short-lived. Such wealth gave them power, and power made them detested. Once they lost the Crusades, it was quite easy to demonise them – especially it you owed them money. One of those in their debt was none other than King Philip of France who took advantage of their fall from grace to blame, torture, and murder them to avoid repayment on his debt, forcing Pope Clement the V to disband them in 1312. The Templars disappeared in the early 1300s but they left behind a mysterious legacy – one that continues to inspire goosebumps to this day….

Pro tip: The Church of Vera Cruz lies just outside of the cluster of buildings in the historic centre. It’s open Tuesdays 16 – 19h and Wed – Sun from 10h30 – 19h (closed midday from 13h30 – 16h). Admission is a modest €2.

Other Churches of Southern Europe:

Doorways in Zahara de la Sierra, Spain

Posted on 21/01/2019 by Alba Marie

Doorways in Zahara de la Sierra, Spain

Andalucia is a region full of adorable white villages, chocolate-coloured fields and rugged landscapes. There are dramatic castles and sun-kissed farmlands basking under the brilliant Spanish light. Around each bend, there is something beautiful and heart-throbbing. One such place is the little hilltop village of Zahara de la Sierra. Tiny alleyways wind their way around the natural rock face. Quaint houses are painted white and framed with wrought iron lamps and pots bursting with colourful flowers. Intricate doorways frame picturesque steps that lead the wayward traveller up the hill towards the castle. And yet, what we think as quintessentially Spanish was actually brought here by the Moors. Though the Al-Andalus tribes left some 500 years ago, the mark they left is ever-present and has embedded itself literally into the fabric of Spain – or at least its architecture. Moorish architecture – married with Spanish creativity – is what inspired this doorway – just as it was that constructed the beautiful Teruel Cathedral or Cervantes’ birthplace (Alcalá de Heneres). Even more famously, Moorish design is what makes Andalucia’s most famous sites so unique in the world – Sevilla, Grenada, Cordoba. From big cities to tiny villages, Andalucia – and Spain in general – is full of hidden gems like this little doorway and alley, if only you set out to explore them.

Pro tip: Malaga might be Andalucia’s most convenient airport to arrive in the region, but spend as little time in Malaga and as much time in the rest Andalucia as you can. The beaches are meant to be nice (and are where most visitors want to go) but unless you love overcrowded sandy places that look the same as overcrowded sandy places anywhere else in the world, leave the coast behind and head inland for off the beaten path wonders like this one. Ronda is a great jumping-off point to explore the region.

Other Beautiful Places in Spain

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe Stairway, Spain

Posted on 03/12/2018 by Alba Marie

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe Stairway, Basque Country, Spain

It’s not hard to see why even just the pathway and staircase to the monastery of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe has captured the inspiration of thousands – or why fantasy film/series producers (like the unfortunate Game of Thrones where the stairs and islet stood in for Dragonstone) have chosen this place to be part of a fantastical world. Carved into a rugged, rocky outcrop on Spain’s north Basque coast, San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is an ancient 10th century monastery perched precariously at the top of a rocky outcrop of an island. Reachable by a rugged causeway, the iconic steps and pathway were carved directly into the causeway itself. Dedicated to St John the Baptist, the unpronounceable Basque name actually loosely translates to “St John’s craggy fort.” At the top stands a medieval hermitage with burials spanning the 9th – 12th centuries. As with most medieval hermitages, the location was chosen precisely because of its rough and remote location – all the better for monks and hermits to isolate themselves from the evils of the world and focus on prayer and god. That said, the rough and remote location later became important as a stronghold and was attacked several times (including by the nasty though strangely revered Sir Francis Drake). Today, the island’s amazing geography combined with the added architecture is a popular site to visit.

Pro tip: It’s best to visit San Juan de Gaztelugatxe in the off-peak season or early on in the day. To truly appreciate the views, take the bus from Bilbao to Bakio and hike the rest of the way, about 6km. The steps are steep and rugged, so wear sturdy shoes and only attempt if fit. It’s a popular place so expect fellow pilgrims!

Check out other unbeatable sites in Spain

Puente Nuevo, Ronda, Spain

Posted on 30/10/2018 by Alba Marie

Puente Nuevo, Ronda, Andalucia, Spain

Rivendell? Gondor? Narnia? Hogwarts? Sadly, no to all. However magical it looks, this is no fantasy world but instead the Spanish town of Ronda is a magical city set deep in the sunburnt deserted landscapes of Andalucia, optimistically built onto a cliff split by a colossal gorge. The two sides of Ronda are tethered together by this stunning bridge known as Ronda’s Puente Nuevo. The newest of the three bridges that crosses the breathtaking El Tajo Gorge carved by the mighty Guadalevin River, Puente Nuevo was finished in 1793 after a long 34 years of construction. It is a master of engineering and an impressive work of architecture, calling in at a shocking 66 meters long and 98 meters high, built straight into the solid rock of the El Tajo Gorge. The small window just visible in the side of the bridge was once used as a prison – with condemned prisoners simply thrown from their cells to meet their doom on the rocks at the bottom of gorge a la Vlad Tepes Dracula. Today, it is both tourist attraction as well as a fully functional bridge, connecting forevermore both halves of the city of Ronda, capital of the famous Pueblos Blancos.

Pro Tip: The Puente Nuevo bridge is best seen from below. Descend along a narrow path that leads down the side of the gorge, but beware, the path is eroded and in poor condition so be sure to wear proper hiking gear.

Find Other Beautiful Bridges in Europe

Casa Batllo, Barcelona, Spain

Posted on 12/10/2018 by Alba Marie

Gaudi’s Casa Batllo, Barcelona, Spain

Gaudi is possibly the greatest thing to come from Barcelona! Born 1852, Antoni Gaudi is the most famous architect from Catalonia (and Spain), as well as a trendsetter in modern architecture, particularly Catalan modernism, or modernista. Organic and flowing, Gaudi’s buildings were inspired by the harmony of man, nature and religion. A mix of modern architecture, art nouveau, neo-gothic with a bit of his own bizarre or absurd additions sprinkled in, Gaudi has become one of the most recognisable architects of the 20th century. In fact, his most famous work the Sagrada Familia cathedral, is still being completed. Other famous works found on the Block of Discord (a city block of unusual architecture), including Casa Mila, as well as Casa Batllo, as seen here. Remodelled at the turn of the century by Gaudi, this fin de siecle Casa Batllo uses almost no straight lines. Its facade is a quilt of broken mosaics and on the roof, the back of a dragon rises up, coupled with a cross thought to represent Catalonia’s patron saint, St George (who once slayed a dragon). Wavy, rounded stain glass windows look out onto the street, turning ordinary Barcelona into something magical and out of this world. The building is collection of apartments centred around an extravagant stairwell. Today, you can visit some of the rooms, where you can see a collection of art nouveau furniture as well as modern art exhibits. In the attic, explore the attic vaulting reminiscent of a giant animal’s ribcage, similar to the apartment mentioned in Dan Brown’s 2017 book, Origin (though his character actually inhabits Casa Mila).

Pro tip: Barcelona is a hotspot for pickpockets – be careful with your affairs, don’t carry more than you need, and be wary of any distraction schemes!

Other Amazing Art Nouveau in Europe

Debod Temple, Madrid, Spain

Posted on 25/05/2018 by Alba Marie

The Egyptian Debod Temple of Madrid, Spain

Wait… Egypt in Spain? Why yes indeed. Madrid’s Parque del Oeste houses the ancient Egyptian Temple of Debod. Originally constructed in Aswan, Egypt in 200 BC and dedicated to Isis, the UNESCO temple had to be moved in 1970 as result of the Aswan High Dam project which created the artificial Lake Nassar in the temple’s original emplacement. The decision was made to donate the Temple of Debod to Spain in graditude for Spain’s aid in saving dozens of the ancient sites and monuments from the reservoir created by the dam. Though the only Egyptian temple in Spain (strangely enough!), Debod Temple has sister temples that you may have seen, each donated for the same reason as Debod. Notably this includes the Temple of Dendur located in NYC’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, as well as the Temple of Ellesyia in Torino (Italy) and the Temple of Taffeh in Leiden (Netherlands). Parque del Oeste, not too far from Madrid’s Royal Palace, is a lovely spot for a walk by day – but it is the soft glow of the setting sun and the romantic glow of moonlight that shows the Temple of Debod in its best light. Under a brilliant crescent moon, gaze upon the ancient temple reflected into the pool encircling the monument.

Pro info: Parque del Oeste is located a short walking distance from the city centre; closest metro stop is Principe Pio. Entry free. Best visited at night when the tombs are lit up!

Other Great Urban Parks of Europe

Alcalá de Henares, Spain

Posted on 05/02/2018 by Alba Marie

Alcalá de Henares, Spain

“Pray look better, Sir… those things yonder are no giants, but windmills.” – Don Miguel de Cervantes

In this case, ‘those things yonder’ happen to be ornately decorated towers in Mudejar (Moorish) style. Said pinnacles adorn the town of Alcalá de Henares, birthplace of famous Spanish writer, Miguel de Cervantes (author of Don Quixote) and today a place of pilgrimage by literary, history, cultural and architecture nerds alike. A UNESCO heritage site, it was the only Roman town in the Madrid region, even attaining “Municipium” status. Conquered and rebuilt and reconquered and rebuilt again means that Alcalá’s (literally ‘citadel in Arabic) architecture is a hodgepodge of various styles, cultures and epoques; even the site of the city moved back and forth a few times. Most notably was the Moorish conquest, as they left the most visible footprint on the city, the impressive Mudejar architectural style seen here. Cervantes was born here, and although his family moved away during his childhood, the city still reveres him, hosting the Cervantes Festival every October. Even more impressively, each April 23rd, the King of Spain awards the prestigious Cervantes Award for literature at Alcalá’s esteemed University of Alcalá.

Pro tip: Get to Alcalá de Heneres by commuter train (40 min) from Madrid stations Atocha or Chamartin , if you buy tickets from the machine. Madrid stations aren’t always manned, and buying tickets can be complicated, so be sure you leave extra time to buy tickets

Visit More Stunning Places in Spain

Aranjuez Palace, Spain

Posted on 02/01/2018 by Alba Marie

Royal Palace of Aranjuez, Spain

A sort of Spanish Versailles, Aranjuez Palace is a massive royal complex roughly an hour from Madrid, though it is lesser-known than its French counterpart. A former royal residence established during the era of Philip II in the early 1500s, the Palace of Aranjuez once functioned as a seasonal residence, inhabited by the royals and their entourage each springtime. Encapsulating the utter extravagance and overabundance of the wealth, power and influence the royal family once held, the palatial space allowed them to host enormously opulent and excessive Great Gatsby style parties. Though today the Spanish royal family is little more than a symbol, it is still a powerful symbol of conservatism, religion, and traditional values, not always keeping up with the modern world. Today however, the Royal Palace of Aranjuez, a UNESCO protected site, is open to the public as a museum, displaying art, furniture, royal artefacts and more, offering a cheeky peak behind the royal curtain of what being part of the Spanish royal family and its court actually meant. To get there, take the local commuter train from Madrid’s central stations to Aranjuez and walk 15 minutes to the palace at the centre of town; last entry is one hour before closing.

Happy 2018!

Other Once Royal Residences in Europe

Modern Valencia, Spain

Posted on 27/12/2017 by Alba Marie

City of Arts & Sciences (Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias), Valencia, Spain

Some of Europe’s strangest architecture can be found in Spain – from Bilbao’s famous Guggenheim Museum to Gaudi’s everything (Casa Mila, Casa Batllo, Parc Guell and of course Sagrada Familia Cathedral). As one of the 12 Treasures of Spain and Valencia’s most visited site, the bizarre architecture of Valencia’s City of Arts and Sciences deserves to be on the same list. Covering roughly two kilometres of the former riverbed of the River Turia, this bizarre complex is a homage to modern arts and architecture, yes, but also to science, culture and technology. An opera house, a science museum, an IMAX cinema, a vastly diverse park with walking paths along an open-air arts gallery, an aquarium and a concert venue make up this colourfully bizarre futurist complex. Contrasting strangely with Valencia’s old town, both halves of the city are worth the visit!

More Odd European Architecture

Andalucia Farmlands, Spain

Posted on 26/09/2017 by Alba Marie

Farmlands in rural Andalucia, Spain

Andalucia is one of Europe’s most enchanting places. Vast tracts of farmland stretch to the horizon, dotted with snug farmhouses tucked among the golden and chocolate-coloured foothills. Rugged landscapes colour the foreground while the jagged spires of the Sierra Nevada Mountains set the backdrop. Beautiful Andalucia is home to the famous pueblos blancos, the magnificent white villages peppering the golden brown hills of southern Spain. In this region, time seems to slow to a standstill. People take time to live their lives slowly, to appreciate the simple joys of everyday. Groves of oranges and olives climb the sunburnt slopes until they finally disappear over the hill crest. The over-abundance of oranges and olives, not to mention tomatoes, grapes, almonds, cereals, and sunflowers is evident – pop-up open air markets are everywhere, in each village. Old wooden tables groan under the weight of the fresh produce – aficionados of the farm-to-fork movement at its purest! Vineyards, too, abound in Andalucia and further afield in Spain. It’s easy to find good yet cheap wine (no need to ever spend more than €10 per bottle…). Better yet, enjoy a cold glass of delicious sangria while basking under the Andalucian sun in villages like Grazelama, Zahara de la Sierra, or the town of Ronda. There are a lot of incredible places to watch a sunset, but the green and golden checkered fields, bone-white villages and rugged landscapes – not to mention the cloudless skies – make for some pretty spectacular performances. Best enjoyed with a sangria in hand…of course.

Other Lovely Rural Destinations in Europe

Zubri Zuri Bridge, Bilbao, Spain

Posted on 18/09/2017 by Alba Marie

Zubri Zuri Bridge in Bilbao, Spain

The exotic-sounding words Zubri Zuri simply means ‘white bridge’ in Basque, the local language of Bilbao and the surrounding Pais Vasco (Basque Country). Euskara, or Basque in English, is a fascinating language that, interestingly enough, has no ties to any other Indo-European languages! Bilbao and Basque Country are truly unique. Connecting the more modern side of Bilbao with the more historic side since 1997, the bizarre modern design of Zubri Zuri sports a curved walkway, overhanging arch, translucent glass bricks, and zigzaging ramps. Built as a pedestrian route to allow tourists to reach the even more bizarre Guggenheim Museum of Bilbao, Zubri Zuri Bridge has become a tourist attraction in its own right. Though a convenient way to get to the Guggenheim Museum and certainly worth the experience of crossing this unusual bridge, at some point be sure to walk along the River Nervion opposite of the Guggenheim for phenomenal views of the iconic museum’s strange futurist architecture! One of the things that Bilbao does best is the melding of old and new – Bilbao’s extensive Old Town’s meandering streets, beautiful churches, quiet alleys and quirky shops contrast well to the shining skyscrapers, quirky futuristic architecture and intriguing street art of the West Bilbao. Wander from Bilbao from west to east as you slowly go back in time in this strange but enticing Spanish city (is it really Spanish? Some would disagree…but that’s a discussion for another day) in northern Spain.